Home Invasion

Home-defense is pretty important. After all, you probably spend a lot of time at home. Let’s take a look at some simple things you can do to make your home, a safer home. We will also look at natural weapons that you can use, and probably already have scattered around your home.
When you buy a home or first move into a rental property, be sure to change the locks on all the external doors and do so as soon as possible. You should also consider putting deadlocks on your external doors, and windows.�

If you don’t have them already, install and USE locks on your windows. If you like to leave a window open at night, or when you go out, consider having a GOOD security fly-screen installed. They can be a good idea and will bring peace of mind.

The only problem with GOOD security screens is that you can’t escape through that window if your home catches on fire, or you hear someone breaking in through another part of your home.

A cheaper alternative to locks on your sliding windows is to get and cut a piece of round dowel/wood to fit in the sliding track of each sliding window. You can cut them four-inches (100mm) short, so that the window can be opened, but not climbed through from outside.

To play it safe, you should keep the doors and windows in your home locked day and night, whether you are home or out.

Natural weapons in your home
Every room in you home should have some kind of natural weapon in it. You should consciously position items in ALL the rooms in your home to use for self or home defense.If you have an uninvited guest, the idea is to do something to him that will slow him down long enough for you to escape and get help. The first thing you should do is put a pen in every room. They make great weapons!

The second thing you should do is go into every room and come up with a way to get out of THAT room via a window – FAST!

Will you need to break a window or will it open quickly? Can you dive through it or must you climb through it? Where will you go once you are out? Think. This is important!

If you can get out, you will not need any natural weapons. But have them in place, as back up.

Your kitchen is full of weapons, everything from knives to spices. Leave spices like chili out on a bench or table. Salt is a good one, and spray cans like fly spray and oven cleaner should be within easy reach.
Lounge room
Your lounge room probably has a lamp on a small table. Both of these items can be used. The TV remote control, or a CD case could be used to strike the throat. Good solid ornaments, that we all have out on display, can be used.
Hair spray, shower cleaner sprays and powders. Some kind of beach-feel display with dry sand. Sand can make a great stand-in for fly or hair spry.
Yes, even here. It’s actually a pretty safe place to go if you can’t get out, because you can jamb the door shut by sitting on the floor with your back against the door and your feet against the toilet. If someone manages to get in, you could spray them in the eyes with air freshener. With the toilet cleaning brush, you could eye gouge, strike to the throat or temple.
Your bedroom probably has a clock of some sort. It can be used as a weapon and so can its power cord. You may have a glass of water next to your bed that you could hold by its bottom and strike at an intruders face, eyes, temple, and throat. If you are going to put security screens on your windows, be sure to have one installed in your bedroom.
The laundry door is an easy way for someone to get into your home, if you have a window next to it. Someone can easily break the window, then reach in and open a standard door lock. If you have got a window next to the laundry door, install a dead lock and don’t leave the key in the lock. Keep your iron in your laundry. They make good weapons, because they are solid, have a grip-able handle and a dangerous, pointy, top end. A hot iron is even better.
Become invisible
Close the blinds on your windows at night. A burglar will look in at what you have got for the taking window-shopping. A person planning a home invasion will be able to better plan his attack. The less information you give people on what’s going on in your home, the better.

You should also think about an escape plan to use if you have an intruder or fire.

Remember that windows are made of glass and glass can be broken. The broken window can then be used to escape through.

Can you walk around your home in the dark no lights on? If you can’t, you should learn how. If you wake up in the middle of the night, hear a noise and then see a torch light in another room, for example, you can sneak out if you know your way in the dark.

Count how many steps it takes to get from your bedroom to external doors. Learn to quietly feel/know your way around. If you go to the kitchen in the middle of the night to get a drink, or go to the toilet, practise walking in the dark.

As you have learned, there are some simple ways to improve your self or home defense. Make sure all your external door locks are working and only you have the keys for them. Know what natural weapons are in each room and how to use them. Learn to get around your home in the dark, and plan ways to get out fast!




Safety Tactics

Safety Tactics

byRandy LaHaie

Home Security Tactics

Keep hedges and bushes trimmed so that the doors to your home are visible to neighbors and passers-by.

Ensure that entrances are well lit. Sensor lights are exterior lights that are activated when an infrared beam is broken. These lights are fairly inexpensive and are excellent because they are likely to scare off prowlers outside your home.

Invest in a good burglar alarm system from a reputable company. Place alarm stickers on your windows.

Consider buying a dog and post “Beware of Dog” signs outside your home. The size of the dog is not important. Even a small dog will make noise when it detects a prowler or intruder.

Use deadbolt locks on all exterior doors and ensure that the doorframes are sturdy and strong.

Ensure that all windows have locks and that you keep them locked while out or home alone.

Use wooden or metal rods to secure sliding doors and windows. Many styles of sliding patio doors can be easily pried open with a screwdriver or opened with a sharp tug that will break the latch.

Avoid hiding keys outside, especially in obvious places. It is better to give a spare key to a trusted neighbor.

If you lose a set of keys, have your locks changed as soon as possible.

Don’t put your name and address on your key chain.

Do not leave your house keys or garage door opener on your vehicle when it is being serviced. Keys can be stolen or copied. A garage door opener can be opened and the frequency combination can be recorded.

If your garage door opener is lost or stolen, have your opener code changed.

Install peepholes in doors as opposed to chain locks that can be easily forced and broken.

Teach your children not to open doors for strangers.

Avoid indicators that you live by yourself or are home alone.

o Draw your curtains at night to prevent people from determining that you are alone.

o If you live alone, don’t put your name on the mailbox. If you do, use only your first initial. People can look your number up in the phone book and phone to determine if you are out.

o Consider an unlisted phone number or use only your first initial in your telephone listing.

o Never inform unknown callers or visitors that you are alone. Inform them that your spouse/roommate is asleep, in the shower or that you are unable to speak because you are expecting company at any moment.

Have automatic garage door openers installed. You will be less susceptible to attacks from assailants hiding outside your home.

Scan your surroundings before exiting your vehicle and approaching a house or building.

Have your house or car keys ready in case you have to get in quickly.

If you arrive home to find a stranger or vehicle in your driveway, leave and call a neighbor or the police.

Have a phone at your bedside along with important phone numbers for police, fire, neighbors etc.

A cell phone is best because the lines cannot be cut.

Arrange to have service people, salespeople, etc. attended while you have company or invite a friend over during that period.

Placing an emergency call:

o State your location and name first in case you are interrupted

o State your reason for calling

o If possible, provide police with a description and present whereabouts of a suspect (i.e. trying to get in, running away etc.)

Get to know your neighbors and determine whom you can call in an emergency. Consider developing an emergency signal such as flashing lights or noisemakers.

If someone does try to force his way into your house, keep your foot on the floor with the ball of your foot against the bottom of the door as a doorstop.

Consider placing a personal defense weapon/device(s) around the home or be prepared to improvise by converting household items into weapons.

A stranger at the door:

o Are you expecting anyone?

o Does he look the part? (uniform, company vehicle, etc.)

o Are these normal business hours?

o Does he appear to be nervous and/or scanning for witnesses?

o If you are suspicious, ask for ID and the phone number of his superiors. Is he able to recite it immediately?

o If you are the least bit suspicious of a stranger, advise him that you are expecting company and to make an appointment. Trust your intuition.

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Outside Safety Tactics:

Outside safety tactics refer to times when you are out in an uncontrolled environment such as when commuting to and from home, work, stores, etc. It is preferable to avoid “risky” areas. At times however, this is not always possible. Here are some examples of tactics:

Avoid isolated locations with low witness concentration. If you are alone you are more likely to be targeted for assault.

The time of the day is an important factor. Late night hours have lower witness traffic and an assailant is more capable of assaulting you without being seen or caught. A location that can be safe during daylight hours can become the opposite at night.

When you are outside, make sure to exercise your awareness skills. Be conscious of your surroundings. Check over your shoulder every once in a while and avoid isolated location and potential hiding spots.

When walking, stick to well lit routes with high witness traffic. If there are no sidewalks, consider walking on the left side of the roadway facing traffic. This makes it difficult for a car to follow you undetected.

In the city, where you must walk on the sidewalk, walk near the curb. This makes it more difficult for an assailant hiding around a corner or in a doorway to grab you before you can react.

If you are taking the bus, sit near the driver. Report unwanted advances to the driver immediately. Try to sit in an aisle seat or beside a female passenger.

If you feel that you are being followed and crossing the street confirms your suspicions, begin screaming and run to a public location. You can also consider placing an obstacle between you and your pursuer and continue to scream for help.

If you are alone, avoid waiting inside a bus shelter where you could be trapped.

When out for a walk, jog or while commuting, try to go with a friend. If you go out to exercise alone don’t wear headphones. This reduces your ability to detect an attacker approaching from behind.

Avoid walking alone at night when you are upset or have been drinking. Your awareness level is likely to be low.

Know the area and your escape routes. Become familiar with stores, service stations and other places that will be open at the time you are traveling. If you are unfamiliar with an area, avoid trying to find shortcuts. You may end up boxed in or isolated.

Know your bus schedule so that you do not have to wait any longer than necessary.

If you know that you are being followed turn around and look at your pursuer. Project an assertive attitude and take note of the person’s physical description. If you can help it, don’t go directly home. This shows the pursuer where you live and he may choose to try again another time.

Have your keys ready while approaching your house or vehicle or even while taking a stroll. If you spot a potential assailant, you can hurry into your car or house. Keys can also be an effective personal safety weapon. A personal defense weapon is useless if it is at the bottom of a purse or pocket.

If you spot a suspicious person or group of people, go around them as opposed to walking through them. Consider crossing the street.

If someone asks for the time or directions or tries to initiate a conversation, remember that you do not have to answer. If you do, keep it brief and move on. If you become suspicious, you may instruct the person to keep his distance.

Consider your clothing and footwear for defense and escape capabilities.

Avoid public displays of money at automatic teller machines, stores, banks, getting on the bus, etc.

If you carry a handbag tuck it under your arm. It is best to keep money in your pockets. If someone does grab your purse let it go. Property is not worth getting hurt over.

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Vehicle Safety Tactics:

A cell phone is one of the best personal safety devices you can make!

If possible, park your car in an attended lot or in a well-lit, busy area.

Avoid parking next to vans because they will obscure you from view and you can be pulled in through a side door.

Make sure to scan the area before getting out of your vehicle. If there is a suspicious person don’t get out.

When returning to your car, scan the area around the car as you approach. Check around it, underneath it, and pay attention to occupied vehicles nearby.

Scan the interior of your vehicle before getting in to make sure no one is hiding inside.

Lock your car doors whether you are in it or not. When driving in urban areas, keep the windows rolled up as far as comfortable.

Have your keys ready when approaching your car in case you have to get in quickly. In the event of an assault, keys can be used as weapons.

If you are loaded down with several packages, get in first, lock the doors and then organize your possessions.

Don’t pick up hitchhikers. Even if the hitchhiker is a woman, exercise caution; she may have an accomplice nearby. Use your discretion and intuition. At the same time you don’t want to leave a stranded person to fend for herself.

Create a “buddy system” with your co-workers so that you are all sure of a ride in case of car trouble.

If several people have cars parked in various locations, it is safest to walk together to the nearest car and then drop each person off at her vehicle.

When dropping off a friend, wait until she is inside her home or vehicle, or that her car is started before driving away. Ask friends to do the same for you.

When attending social functions, consider arranging a car pool. Leave together.

Carry “emergency money” for a bus, cab fare, or a phone call etc.

Prepare an emergency kit and keep it in your vehicle. In particular, make sure you have warm winter clothing. In the winter, if you are dressed improperly and your vehicle breaks down, your options are severely limited to turn away offers of help or a ride from suspicious people.

If you frequently wear high heels or dress shoes, consider keeping a pair of running shoes in your car in case you have to walk.

If possible, tell a friend, spouse etc. where you are going, the route you will be taking and your estimated time of arrival. If you don’t show up or check in, an effort can be made to locate you.

Keep your car in good running condition and avoid driving with less than a half of a tank of gas.

If you have a flat tire and feel that it is unsafe to get out of the car you may have to drive to a place of safety very slowly with your hazard lights on. You will ruin the tire but you’ll be safe.

Learn how to repair a flat tire. If you do get a flat, try to find an occupied location such as a police or fire station parking lot, convenience store, etc. to change it.

Never hitchhike. If you must accept a ride, profile the occupant(s) of the vehicle. Vehicles driven by women or families are statistically less risky.

If you are stranded and someone stops to help you, do not get out of your car. Through a partially open window, ask him to notify the nearest service station, a tow truck or a friend/spouse for you.

When loading items into your trunk, unlock your driver’s door first. If a suspicious person approaches, get in, lock the doors and wait to see what he wants.

Be careful not to pull up too close to a stopped vehicle in front of you. It is easier to escape if someone tries to get into your car or attempts to box you in.

If someone tries to force his way inside your vehicle at a stop sign or red light, sound your horn and drive away. Notify the police.

If you are alone and someone is able to force his way into your car, jump out.

If you are being followed by another vehicle, there are a number of tactics you might consider: o Sound the horn and activate your emergency flashers. Try to draw attention to yourself. o Drive to the nearest police station, fire hall or other public place and lean on the horn to attract attention. o Consider turning around and going in the opposite direction. Try to get a license plate number and description of the vehicle and occupants. o If you are being followed on a highway or multi-lane road, keep to the left lane. This makes it more difficult to cut you off. o Don’t try to out run the vehicle, you could end up having an accident, being hurt or immobilizing your vehicle. o Don’t drive home if you can help it. This will show the assailant where you live.

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Building Safety Tactics:

If you work late, find out who else is in the building. When you leave, ask someone to accompany you. (Such as a co-worker, security guard, etc.)

If you can, time your departure when there is likely to be other people leaving such as at the end of a class or shift.

Elevators are common places of attack. If there is a person already on the elevator who makes you uncomfortable don’t go in. Act like you forgot something and wait for the next one.

When you ride the elevator, stand close to the button panel. If you are attacked, you can press as many buttons as possible and the emergency alarm.

If you intended to go up, don’t get on an elevator that is going down. This might take you down into the basement where you might be isolated.

Try to avoid isolated, poorly lit areas of a building. Isolated stairways should also be avoided if possible.

If you are working alone at night, ensure that the exterior doors to the building are locked so that intruders are unable to gain entry.

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Travel Security Tactics:

Arrange air travel during business hours to avoid being alone and reaching your destination at night.

If you’ve rented a vehicle, arrange to pick it up close to the airport terminal.

If possible, arrange for a company representative to meet you at the airport. Verify his credentials and have him escort you to your car or hotel.

Avoid late business meetings. If one is scheduled, make sure that you are in the company of several associates.

Stay only in quality hotels. Do not accept a room if: o It is located in a remote section of the hotel o The doors and windows are not secure o The hotel does not have 24 hour security

Use the security lock and consider bracing the door with a chair when retiring for the evening.

Do not answer the door unless you are expecting company.

In a strange city tourists may inadvertently wander into the “wrong place a the wrong time.” Speak to hotel staff or the local police to find out if there are areas to be avoided.


Combative Anatomy

Combative Anatomy

Article written by George Matheis, founder of the Modern Combatives System.

Much study and argument revolves around which Martial Arts or techniques are best for self- defense. To know which are best we have to look at it like we would to select a tool for a specific job. What are we trying to accomplish?�

In combatives that job is stopping a human being from harming us as fast as possible. The first area of study then needs to be anatomy or even more specialized for our purposes, Combative Anatomy. The science of how to stop a human from doing a specific harmful act in the minimum amount of time. Combative Anatomy also does not rely on pain compliance.�

Just like the MCS Combative Anatomy has to first be looked at with the understanding that during a spontaneous attack you will initially have to deal with attacks ranging from open hand, impact, edged and pistols with the open hand. This problem is two fold.�

One you need to be able to defend against the initial attack as well as make sure that you attacker is not going to get up and chase you when you run to call for help. Also understand that the only ways to damage the human body it to crush or cut it. Because we don’t have claws if fighting open handed you will need to rely on crushing attacks at least until you can produce a edged weapon.�

Crushing attacks can cause immediate incapacitation unlike cutting attacks which can take from seconds to minutes, and that is a long time when you life is on the line. For this reason we will break down Combative Anatomy into four specific systems. Lets look at your attackers body like a house that needs to have electricity, walls, and plumbing for aggression to dwell in it.�

Central Nervous System – is made up of the brain and spinal cord and in charge of processing information. A hammer fist between the eyes or a slap to the side of the head would have the same effect as cutting power to the house. At the very least is will cause an interruption in services. That is why we don’t attack just one system, stand back and see what happens. The CNS is easily attacked with open hands and items typically carried in the hand. These are crushing / impact attacks.�

Skeletal System- the 206 bones of the human body that make up our frame. Without our frame, locomotion and the motion needed to articulate a weapon are impossible. For fighting the two joints we count on most are the elbow and knees.�

Both joints work very well on only one plane-which makes them hinge joints. By smashing them we can ensure that our attacker will not pick up another weapon or follow us when we leave. The elbows and knees are most vulnerable when extended all the way out.�

This is also why we don’t lock our arms out during a punch and make sure we have a slight bend in our knees at all times. The Skeletal System is also easily attacked with the open hand and feet. These are crushing / impact attacks.�

Muscular System- the system that allows us to move. The muscle needs to be cut to incapacitate. And just like any traumatic injury having one or more muscles cut can have little or no effect on what the rest of the body is able to do.�

If you are lucky enough to have an edged weapon in your hand when attacked and manage to cut your opponents strong side bicep he can still use his other hand to use the same weapon, access another one or just run after you as you run away.�

I would view it as closing one door to get away from someone when there is another open door right next to it. Wouldn’t make more sense to incapacitate them so they could not chase you?�

Circulatory System- system that carries blood to and from the heart. Again this system can only be affected by cutting. I know you are going to say what about chokes. And don’t get me wrong, chokes are great but to do them effectively you need to be behind your attacker and it ties up both of your hands.�

Usually you will have to start defending while facing your attacker. And whether it is a choke or a cut, both will take time even if only a few second to incapacitate your attacker. And in that 10 seconds he can get a lot of stabbing done and inflict some serious damage on you.

A human only has six basic physical weapons
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– Head
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– Shoulders
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– Elbows
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– Hands
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– Knees
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– Feet

Experience has taught us that the majority of attacks are hand attacks. The mechanism of the attack is the same whether it is open hand, impact or edged.�

Using MCS Combative Anatomy along with the proper mindset gives you an easy to remember full force continuum to effectively deal with all threats appropriately in a way that is defensible and grounded in science not marketing.


Article written by George Matheis, founder of the Modern Combatives System.

It has been just over a year since I coined the term Combative Anatomy, the study of incapacitating your attacker during a violent attack. Since that time I have done more research on the subject and have some new thoughts.

First, let’s define incapacitation. For our purposes it means that the attacker is physically unable to continue to attack. Since the majority of initial defenses are likely to be open handed even against weapons, we cannot count on things like pain compliance because of tolerance or desensitization related to drugs or alcohol.�

Defenses need to focus on the mechanism of attacks and not the method i.e., destroying the elbow of the arm that holds the knife instead of trying to disarm the knife.

Regardless of whether you are defending yourself with your hands, stick, gun, or firearms there are only two ways you can cause trauma to your attacker, and they are cutting and crushing. You either penetrate the skin or you don’t.�

The hierarchy of incapacitation is as follows-

– Central nervous system

– Skeletal system

– Muscular system

– Circulatory System

It is interesting to note that although trauma to the circulatory system is most likely to prove fatal it may actually be the slowest in terms on the immediacy in which it causes physical incapacitation that stops your attacker. With the exception of choking, targeting of the circulatory system is also impossible with the personal or impact weapons.

Instead of having a specific game plan or secret move, I feel it is more effective to target areas of the body that are most vulnerable to open hand attacks that are likely to be exposed during an altercation.�

These targets have been narrowed down to-

Head- responsible for decision-making

Elbow- the lynch pin of all open hand attack and using weapons

Knee- responsible for locomotion, base and balance

The way to combat the failure of specific targeting is redundancy. Since an attack with the open hand or a contact distance weapon would expose all three primary targets, all should be attacked if possible. For example, if someone were to attack you with a tire iron and you were able to move to the outside you would- smash the weapon side elbow with your elbow or palm, smash your knee into the side of theirs and then yank them back causing their head to strike a wall or vehicle.�

This of course is an example in open hand force vs deadly force. A slap to the side of the head is also an effective optional technique. Disruption of the central nervous system should be considered the primary target even if it is not attacked first.

This doctrine allows for a measured open hand response that because of its effectiveness may prevent the need to escalate to a mechanical or deadly force option. As a side note, practicing these techniques even in a controlled environment is likely to result in hyper extended knees and elbow. Headgear should also be worn. Communication with your training partner is the key.

Now a few words on Combative Anatomy as it relates to the use of an edged weapon for self-defense. Again it seems that our goal needs to be defined as stopping our attacker as fast as possible, not killing them eventually. The debate over stab vs cut continues.�

Since attacking the central nervous system with an edged weapon is improbable we will discuss the most effective way to attack the circulatory system. Most of those knowledgeable and trained in edged weapons prefer to stab and believe they will be able to do so even when attacked. Since I believe that the vast majority of people reading this are likely to never use an edged weapon offensively, I can only theorize that if they do have to use one it will be in response to being attacked.

My research has shown that when people are on the defense and moving to the rear they are more likely to slash. The people that I have observed have ranged from novices to those who would define themselves as seasoned knifers. Either way they responded the same way.�

This is telling since it has been my experience that many folks who carry a knife for self defense have little to no training and consider their knife a last ditch weapon. What I teach has to be as effective for those who attend a weekend seminar as it is for those who pursue edged weapons as a martial art. For this reason I don’t feel comfortable teaching stabbing as a primary counter attack.

For those of you who don’t hunt, try watching a few hunting shows. You can see hunters shooting white tail dear with shotguns, rifles, and bows. I don’t think that anyone would argue that a knife would cause more damage than any of these other weapons. Their shots usually target the circulatory system. Most of the time the animal recoils in shock before bolting off to die a distance away. How much damage could a human do in that time? This overwhelming trauma to the thoracic cavity results in an adrenaline dump and blood pumping into the legs allowing the animal to run.�

They are for a few seconds able to run faster on their extremities than they ever have before. Why don’t they target the head and the central nervous system or the skeletal system? One is for the trophy and one is sportsmanship. It is more important to kill them eventually than to stop them immediately. The exact opposite of what we need to do when defending ourselves against human predators.

These theories on Combative Anatomy continue to reinforce my belief that Inverted Edge Tactics offer the best defensive edged weapon skills.

First of all the use of the inverted edge prevents people from swinging wildly outside the silhouette of their attacker which increases economy of motion, while at the same time targets by default the inherent weaknesses of the body.

The most important feature of Inverted Edge Tactics is that it takes advantage of the fact that arteries and nerves run together along the contours of the muscle like a wiring harness. As with the open hand this combats the likeliness of failure with redundancy. The more systems attacked the better the chance of physiological failure.

Careful consideration needs to be made in reference to how humans respond during stress, the positions we are likely to find ourselves in, and the most effective way to blend those things to formulate repeatable tactics to stop attacks as fast as possible.�

Tactical Anatomy�






Ive just purcashed one of the new RAT knives, (RC-5 SERE) from Urban Conquest here in OZ. Very good prices for the local knife comunity. I havent been a big RAT fan. Ive owned the Izula for a parasite blade and the RTAK before, but cut the 10.25 inch blade to an eight incher and lost too much of the leverage for chopping. Probably would have worked, if made from 1/4 inch stock. Its now makes a fine camp knife. Ive mainly been put off their larger blades by being made of 3/16th, preferring 1/4 inch stock.

So when the SERE was released, I jumped at a good price to try one out. I wont write out a complete review, only make a few observations. The links below have done a much better job of it, than I could. On the blade it actually says ESEE which stands for Escela Supervivencia Escape Evasion and not SERE which is distracting some people. The sabre grind, which once again Im not a fan of is done very well. I dont like large flats on the sides of blades, most sabres are very low for maximum strength but tend to stick when battoning or chopping. The RC-5 has a nice high sabre which hasnt effected battoning at all for me and acts more like a scandi grind.

The leg tie down strap isnt intended for that purpose but to actually tie the sheath to webbing to reduce noise when on military patrol. The bow drill divet balances in a nice position and is one of the hardest items to come across or produce in the wilderness when attempting to make a fire bow kit. The feel of the grip in the hand is also superb. Its made of 1095 steel, which once again not a fan prefering higher end steels but it makes sense for a survival knife to be made of 1095. For one it should have a high enough carbon content to strike against flint to produce sparks and secondly can be sharpened on suitable stream rocks. Something I wouldnt like to try with the higher end stainless steels. Its well designed and worth checking one out and definately a keeper for me.





Second Opinion


Canadian Wilderness�

Luke 12



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How to Survive a Dog Attack

How to Survive a Dog Attack

by Margaret Eden

Based on statistics obtained from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, every year 4.7 million people suffer a dog attack in the United States. Of this number, 800,000 require medical attention, and 17 result in death. Despite leash laws and animal control programs, dogs roam free in city streets, suburbs, and rural and remote areas. Generally, dog attacks occur in average neighborhoods while people walk, jog or exercise their own dogs.

“I took my Huskies out on their leashes late one evening,” says Phil in Oklahoma. “We had only gone a block when a Golden Retriever charged out of the bushes and attacked my dogs. It wasn’t until I managed to separate the dogs that I felt blood trickling down my leg where the Retriever had sunk his teeth into my thigh.”

Phil’s story is not unusual, according to Mark Minnerly, owner of The Dallas Dog Trainer, Dallas, Texas. “Dogs frequently attack other dogs who stray into their territory. If people get in the way, they get bit. Dogs are pack animals, territorial by nature.”

“Some dogs possess a stronger instinct than others,” says Minnerly. “The profile of killer dogs has changed over the last 15 years. Great Danes were responsible for the largest percentage of fatal attacks in 1979. In 1995 and 1996 Rottweilers killed 11 of 22 dog attack victims. However it’s important to remember that Rottweilers are owned in greater numbers these days.”

All dogs test the water during new encounters. They immediately try to access who you are, why you are there, and who’s in charge. If the person or dog under attack acts correctly, it may diffuse the situation.

How to avoid a dog attack

The best way to avoid an attack is to avoid a strange dog’s territory — but that’s not always possible. If a dog is charging at you, you must quickly determine what type of attack the dog has in mind.

“Dog aggression really takes two forms — defensive or offensive,” says Minnerly. “If a dog feels threatened, he growls and moves away from you hoping you’ll do the same.

“If he moves closer, it’s best to stand still, maintain good posture and keep your eye on him,” says Minnerly. “Try talking. Use a soothing tone. Call for the owner. Hopefully, he’ll call off his dog. Watch the dog closely. Pivot to face him, if necessary. Don’t shout or make threatening body movements. This might make the dog shift from defensive to offensive mode.”

If the encounter takes place in an open area, a steady gaze lets the dog know you feel confident and may discourage an attack. Usually, a fearful dog will back off after a few minutes. However, if the confrontation takes place in a confined space, you might want to stare at a point on the dog’s body rather than directly at his face. If a fearful dog feels cornered, a direct gaze may goad him to attack. If the dog operates off the herding instinct, he will want to chase you down and bite you on the heels or the buttocks. But generally they aren’t bold enough to bite you if you face them. Never let the dog get behind you.

You can easily recognize an aggressive dog by its bark. It says, come on over here. I’m going to have you for lunch. An aggressive dog doesn’t try to scare you away. Instead, he dares you to do something. Often an aggressive dog will move in close and snarl in your face, teeth bared, or charge you in an attempt to make you run so he can give chase.

Most dog attacks take place when an unsupervised dog charges up to investigate a dog on a leash. “It’s a dog’s nature to investigate the new dog by sticking his nose in the new dog’s crotch,” says Minnerly. “Dogs instinctively attack the stomach because gut wounds nearly always prove fatal. It’s a lot like the way lions bring down prey in the wild. If you get in the way, the dog will bite you, too. The worst thing you can do during a dog attack is run,” says Minnerly. “If you run, the dog sees you as prey, and he’ll chase you down.”

“Dogs in the wild don’t usually present a problem,” says Minnerly. “Most are loners and go out of their way to avoid humans. They are looking for food, not trouble. They live on mice, rats and sometimes small or injured deer. If you encounter a wild dog accidentally, it usually runs away.”

On the other hand, dogs running in packs can prove extremely dangerous. “They feed off each other’s excitement,” says Minnerly. “They may attack larger prey than normal. They do things a lone dog would never try. Sometimes they attack pets or livestock.

“During a recession in Alaska in the ’70s, people moved away leaving their property and dogs behind,” says Minnerly, who lived in Alaska at the time.

“Dogs banded together in packs and roamed the streets searching for food. They’d come into your yard and eat your dog while he sat chained to a tree if you weren’t careful.”

What to do if things get nasty

If the unthinkable happens, and a vicious dog attacks you or someone you love, quickly search your environment for weapons to hold the dog at bay. If a bite is truly inevitable and you find no weapons at close range, use a shirt or jacket to wrap your weak-sided arm. Offer the protected arm to the dog as a distraction while you call for help or attempt to back to safety. Often in a frenzied attempt to get at you, an attacking dog will bite almost anything. A stick, a bag or a book may provide a valuable substitute for an arm or leg as you try to escape. It’s always a good idea to carry weapons such as mace, a knife or even a handgun. Real survivalists carry more than one weapon. Two knives, one carried on each side prepares you to survive an incapacitating wound to either your right or left side and allows you to fight on.

If you carry a knife, cut the throat, stab the eyes or the face of the dog for the quickest reaction. Stabs to the body don’t always take effect in time to prevent the dog from biting you. Attacking the dog’s face, jaw muscles or throat will disable it quicker and may prevent serious injury to the person.

If you carry a small caliber gun, aim for the dog’s head/brain; a body shot may not bring the dog down immediately. If you carry a large caliber gun, aim for the body. The impact alone can significantly disrupt the attack. However, it takes time to draw a gun. Statistics indicate a person attacking you may run 19 feet before you can pull a gun from a holster and shoot. Many dogs run faster than the average person.

If serious attack becomes unavoidable and you are:


* search the immediate vicinity for weapons

* wrap your weaker arm in clothing and use it to distract the dog

* call for the owner

* back to safety


* use mace or other spray to subdue the dog

* use knife to stab jaw muscles, face, eyes or throat of dog

* fire small caliber gun at dog’s head

* fire large caliber gun at dog’s body

It’s important to know that dogs always follow the survival of the fittest principal unless extensively trained to do otherwise.


Home Security Tips


There is no such thing as a burglar-proof home. What there is, however — using a burglar’s double criteria of speedy entry and not attracting attention– are homes that are too difficult to break in to .

The enemies of the burglar are time and attention. The longer it takes to enter and the more noise he makes increase his chances of being seen and caught. Homes not easily and quickly broken into are most often bypassed for easier targets

Although the main focus of this is to deter burglars, what is talked about on this page is an example of “walk-aways” mentioned on the Pyramid of Personal Safety page. The same issues that will deter a burglar will also serve to stop a break-in rapist or stalker.

Tip #1 Make your home security system like an onion, not an egg. Layers upon layers are not only the best deterrent, but the best defense against break ins.

Reason: It is easy for a criminal to bypass a single line of defense. Multiple layers not only slow him, but serve as a means to alert you or your neighbors that someone is trying to break in. Doing these “layered walk-aways” makes it more difficult for a criminal to meet his criteria of quick and unobserved entry. If, like the tip of an iceberg, enough of these deterrents are visible, most of the time the would-be intruder will simply choose not to even try. If he does try, then the layers he did not see will impede him.

A good example of a layered defense is rosebushes outside the window, double-locked, barred and safety coated side windows and something difficult to climb over inside under the window.

Tip #2 Pretend to be a burglar
Walk around your property and ask yourself: How would I break in? Examine your house from the street, where are the blind spots? What are the most vulnerable areas and, therefore, likely to be attacked? Stand outside the windows and look in, make sure no valuables, like expensive electronics or artwork, are visible. If you can see your belongings doing this, so can criminals.

Reason: We don’t tend to think of our homes in these terms. So spend just a few minutes doing this. Find where “blind spots” are (areas where a criminal can work without being seen or would be screened from view of a neighbor looking to see what that loud noise they just heard). Also look for “weaknesses” (easy access points) are (for example, sliding glass doors, doggy doors or louvered windows). These are the areas that will be “attacked” by the criminal. That is also where you must focus your defenses.

Tip #3 Consider the area that the lock sits in
A lock is not enough, you must also address the area around it. You need to extend your thinking about security measures to 18 and twenty four inches around the lock itself. That is the area you must protect.

Reason: A burglar doesn’t care how much damage he causes getting in. The best locks in the world will do no good if he smashes the door in. A pinewood door frame will splinter and give way after a few savage kicks. The backdoor deadbolt can often be bypassed by just breaking a window and reaching through to unlock it. Windows can be broken and locks undone. Many locked gates can be opened by simply reaching around and over. A hasp-and-lock will swiftly yield to blows from a even a small sledgehammer.

Tip #4 As well as locking something, you must also protect the lock and its components
A common combination of cheap locks and small construction flaws, that we tend not to notice, often give criminals the “cracks” in security they need to break in.

Reason: Many home doorlocks can be quickly bypassed with a knife or screwdriver slid in the gap between door and frame. After that the criminal can easily work the tongue of most cheap locks out of the door frame. A thin kitchen knife slid between sash windows can “tap” a normal window lock open. Hasps and locks can be hammered or twisted off in a few blows, or simply cut off with bolt cutters. Many sliding windows and doors can simply be lifted out of place.

Door: Look at the gap between your door and your door frame from the inside – can you see the lock’s tongue? All it takes is a flip of the criminal’s wrist while holding a screwdriver while on the outside to break away the thin doorjamb molding and expose that same gap. From there, it is another simple wrist gesture to jimmy the tongue out of the faceplate. Total elapsed time for break-in, about 10 seconds — with minimal noise.

On ALL outside exit doors, buy locks that have locking tongues. Test this by holding the door open and locking the knob. Then attempt to depress the tongue into the door with your finger. Better locks will have a secondary tongue that doesn’t move. The best locks will have entire tongues that don’t move.

Window: Put “window stops” on the first floor and basement window frames. These often functionally amount to secondary and tertiary locks. The best kind are those that go through a moveable frame and lock it into place. Something as simple as drilling a hole through both frames when the window is closed and placing a nail in the hole will lock the windows in place.

Other: Use hasps with protective shrouds. These make it harder for the criminal to hammer away the lock. If for some reason you have an outward swinging door, not only get the best lock possible, but place a safety plate (a small formed sheet of metal) over the tongue so it cannot be seen or easily manipulated

These slow down the criminal and make him work hard to get in. This entails him making more noise for longer periods of time, thereby increasing his chances of being detected.

Tip #5 Brace doorframes and put multiple locks on all outside doors
What he doesn’t know *will* hurt him. With a little extra work, the bracing can be hidden behind the doorframe’s internal molding and will not be noticeable from either inside or outside. For the burglar, this is like unexpectedly hitting an invisible wall.

Reason: The most common means of breaking into homes is simply by kicking in the door. Most doorframes are made of 1 inch pine which saves the contractor money. This makes them vulnerable to this basic assault. Multiple locks and bracing under the molding make this kind of entrance unlikely and will not destroy the beauty of your home.

Bracing: Take between a 2 and 3 foot piece of flat steel stripping (1/8 x 2 inches is good) and drill a staggered series of holes down its length. When you take the interior molding off the door — in most houses — you will see the 1×6″ (or 1×5″) pine plank of the doorframe. That is nailed to the 2×4″ studs of the wall. (You may or may not be able to see the studs because of drywall, but they are there). That thin 1 inch piece of cheap wood (it is usually pine) is all that was between your possessions and a burglar. A few savage kicks, and it usually breaks off in a 2- to -3 foot sliver and the door swings open.

Fast and more secure version: On the inside wall, where the molding was, position the steel strip so that all the lock strike plates are behind it and its edge is along the edge of the 1×6. Screw it into place with long screws — leaving a few holes open. The staggered drill pattern should result in the screws seating into both the 1×6 and the 2×4 studs. Take the molding and shave or chisel out the thickness of the metal strip in the proper place. Replace the molding, using the remaining holes to tack it down over the strip. Putty and repaint.

Slower, better looking, but slightly less secure: This version looks slightly better, but requires some precision Dremel or chisel work. Instead of abutting the strip to the exact edge of the 1×6, seat it between 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch away from the edge. When carving your groove in the molding, leave the same sized tongue running down the doorside edge. This seats over and covers the steel, making it invisible. Repaint.

Strike plate: Just assume that they did it wrong — and odds are you will be right. Using the same length of screws that you are using for the steel strip, remove the shorter screws that are in the door frame strike plate and replace them with the bigger screws. It is not uncommon for short screws of less than a half inch to be used (or come with the lock assembly), such short screws are easily ripped out after a few kicks. On the other hand an 1 1/2 or 2 inch set of screws that reach into the house’s very framing is not going anywhere quickly — no matter how hard you kick it.

Multiple locks: Deadbolts, rim locks and floor locks are your friends. All outside doors should have at least two separate locks. Doors that are on the blind side of the house or homes in high-risk areas should have more. The deeper the tongue goes, the better.

Tip #6 Find alternatives to normal deadbolts in doors that have windows (or windowed frames) �
Talk with a locksmith about what is available.

Reason: Most burglaries occur during the day when you are away at work. Unfortunately, many back doors are decorative and windowed. It is easy for a burglar to punch out a small window, reach in and unlock the door. Since they are off the street and out of view this is why most break-ins occur through the back and side doors.

A single-key deadbolt has a key on one side and a handle on the other. After punching out a window a burglar can reach in and, with ease, open the deadbolt then the doorknob – elapsed time five seconds. Placing a secondary lock (i.e., a floor lock) outside of the reach of the windows is recommended. If that is too much, a double-key deadbolt is recommended for non-primary access doors. This secures the door while you are not at home. If fire safety concerns you (and it should) at night put your keys in the deadbolt. This not only allows you immediate exit should a fire occur, but you will also always know where your keys are.

Tip #7 Treat inside garage doors the same as an outside door: multiple locks and bracing.
Even though it is inside your home, it must be able to withstand a full out assault. Often, the doors that access the house from the garage are hollow-core and have cheap locks (if they are locked at all) which is why break ins through garages are so common.

Reason: Criminals often cruise neighborhoods looking for open garage doors. Once an open garage door is found, they pull in, close the door, park their car and then start piling your possessions into it. Although they might still do it occasionally, criminals no longer need to cruise the neighborhood with a stolen garage door opener and pushing the button to see whose door will open, and incredible number of people just leave the door wide open for them when “just running down to the store.”

For criminals on foot, the side door of a garage is a prime target, as it is often easier and offering better ease of access/escape than a back door. This is why you must treat the door into your home from the garage like an outside door.

If the inner door is locked it is usually hollow core and with minimal locks. Realize that with the garage door closed the criminals can unleash a sustained full out assault against that inside door. Usually the door will give way. By bracing it and replacing hollow core doors with solid core ones, you significantly lessen the chances of that happening.

It should also be noted that many home invasion robberies come through open garage doors and these inner doors. More so than the front door.

Tip #8 Plant rosebushes or cactus in front of all vulnerable windows.
Thorny landscaping not only adds beauty to your home, but makes even getting close to such windows an unappealing prospect

Reason: The second most common way of breaking into homes is through rear or side windows. A thief can work on such windows with little chance of detection. Standing in the middle of a thorn bush to do it, however, is not a pleasant experience.

Tip #9 Look into safety-coating the most vulnerable windows.
Safety coat is an adhesive plastic sheeting that makes breaking out windows difficult.

Reason: It’s not going to be fun for him, standing in a rosebush only to discover that the window isn’t easy to break either. Instead of a quick pop, he now has to stand there and repeatedly pound before he can even reach the lock. Wait until he discovers that the window has window stops as well.

If you can afford it, there are many quality windows that are not only good to keep inclement weather out, but provide serious burglar protection, as well.

Tip #10 Put a secondary lock that prevents the panel from being moved on all windows.
This is repeating what was mentioned earlier, but it is important enough to warrant such emphasis.

Reason: Put stops on the frame on all sash windows. This allows them to be opened, but only so far. On sliding windows and doors, the best type of lock is a pin that goes through both frame and sliding part. This prevents the window from being lifted out.

Tip #11 Get and close heavy drapes — especially on rooms where there is expensive equipment. Thin, sheer drapes –although attractive — also allow burglars to look inside.

Reason: It is often amazing how often a home intruder will walk up and look through the windows of a home to see if there is anything worth stealing. Sheer curtains allow him to do this. He knows what he wants to steal before he even breaks in.

Getting into the habit of closing heavy drapes not only keep your home warmer in winter but lessen the chances of your home being targeted by a burglar. Without this ability to see into the home, there are less guaranteed results for him, which helps to serve as a deterrent.

Tip #12 In really bad neighborhoods, get safety bars on the windows. In so-so neighborhoods, you might want to consider putting them on side windows — especially ones that are perfect break-in spots.

Reason: When it comes down it windows are always breakable. A set of regular bars on high risk, non-bedroom windows are not likely to destroy the looks or value of your home. And the added security is well worth it.

On bedroom windows, it is advisable to spend the extra money and get the releasable bars that can be jettisoned in case of fire.

Tip #13 Make sure sliding glass doors and windows are installed correctly.
Not everyone in the construction industry is a rocket scientist. And their incompetence and laziness can cost you plenty.

Reason: An estimated one quarter of all sliding glass doors and windows are installed backwards (so the sliding part is on the outside track). This allows the criminal to simply lift out the panel and enter

Tip #14 If you use a pole in the track to secure sliding doors and windows make sure it is the right length.
It should be within a ? – inch of the track’s length.

Reason: If the pole is not long enough to keep the criminal from slipping his fingers in, it is of no use. Staple or tape a piece of string to the pole to make it easy to pull out when it is in the track.

Better yet get a “track stop” or “track lock” that you can put in the tracks. They are far better than the “poor man’s version” of a dowel. Better yet get sliding window/door bar (jamb bar).

Tip #15 Install motion detectors in areas where no one should be. �
This way, you know something isn’t right when they go off.

Reason: Most people put safety lights where they do the least good. While they illuminate your approach as you pull into your driveway, such lights are often hard to see if you are indoors. Put them along the side of the house or back, so that someone lurking there sets them off.

Position them so you can see when they go on. The lights are adjustable, so even if you have a blind wall you can turn the lights so they will both illuminate an area and attract your attention. Put them high enough so that they cannot be knocked out of service by someone jumping.

Look into low voltage and/or solar powered outdoor lighting. This kind of lighting illuminates your property at very little cost.

Tip #16 Get a dog. �
A barking dog, whether inside the house or in the yard is proven as the best deterrent to burglars.

Reason: It doesn’t have to be a 250 – pound Rottweiler named Spike, even a smaller yappy dog serves as an early warning system. Not only does the intruder risk a bite, but the barking attracts attention. And there is no such thing as a stranger intimidating a dog into silence.

We don’t recommend dog doors. It is not uncommon for thieves to bring small children and send them through these and have the child open the main door. Also, since many burglars are, in fact, teenagers, it is also common for them to bring a younger child with them to do this. If you do have a dog door already, either a) put the dog out and lock the door during the day or b) make sure the access gates to your yard are locked. That way the criminals cannot simply walk by, open your gate to let the dog out and then return when the dog has wandered away.

The truth is a dog, even a small dog, inside a house is not something a burglar wants to to deal with. Getting bit is not fun.

Tip #17 Create a neighborhood watch on your block. �
Even just the signs often send would-be burglars elsewhere.

Reason: An alert and involved community is the criminal’s nemesis. It is often reason enough for him to try business elsewhere.

Even if you can’t create an organized program, get to know your neighbors, especially retired folks who are home all day. Let them know who belongs there and who doesn’t. Have them watch your property and pick up your newspaper when you are on vacation. It is also a good idea to hire a trustworthy preteen/young teen neighbor to do such mundane jobs as mowing your lawn or taking out the trash. Such kids then have vested interests in your property and they are home to watch your property when adults aren’t. The kids like it because they get spending money and you get to watch TV on the weekend instead of doing lawn work.

Tip #18 Make sure the gates are locked if you have a fence. This is especially important with accesses to the alley.

Reason: Each layer serves as a deterrent. The more layers and hard work the criminal has to do, the more likely he is to pass by your home. A locked fence is something he must climb over while carrying objects. If the gate is left unlocked, however, he can just walk right through it.

Tip #19 Leave the stereo/TV on
An empty house “feels” empty. There is no vibration or noise inside that indicates someone’s presence. Put the “vibes” in.

Reason: Although this is not a guaranteed deterrent, it can serve as a “bluff” to young, inexperienced prowlers. Even though they have “checked” to see if anyone is home (e.g. knock on the door), the unexpected noise, especially from the back or upstairs (any place they can’t look into), indicates that they made a mistake on their primary recon. Maybe someone is home and just didn’t hear the doorbell.

You might especially want to consider this strategy for vacations. Close the drapes, turn the stereo/TV on in the room where the criminal is most likely to try to break in.

Tip #20 Etch your name on all electronic equipment TV/stereo/computer and then tape it�
Etching, in and of itself serves as a deterrent in case of a break in, failing that it greatly assists the police in the recovery of your property

Reason : Items with your name and address cannot be easily sold. The reason for this is that anyone buying them is buying something that can easily be proven to be stolen property and they know it. What protects most buyers of stolen goods is the fact that it is difficult to prove something is stolen property. However, a name and address on an item combined with a police report is a fast way to end up in the county jail for possession of stolen property — even if the person who has it bought it off the burglar. As such, why steal something that you a) can’t sell, b) if you are caught with you’re definitely going to jail for?

Although it is better to record serial numbers, a faster way to assist the police in recovery is to video tape every room and all the items in them. As you tape say what it is (for example Sanyo TV, Hitachi DVD player, etc.,) Title the tape something like “Family Reunion” or something you will remember and put it in your video collection. This way, if items are stolen you can give the tape to the police, video and the etching will identify your property when the police encounter it. Which quite often they do, being called to homes where stolen property is present, but without a means to identify it as such, they cannot prove it. Also send a duplicate copy to a relative.

Tip #21 Get a safe!
It’s not just cash and jewels that need to go in there, but your important paperwork.

Reason: Identity theft is the fastest growing crime in the US. Although many people think burglars are going to go for jewelry, silverware or electronics, what most people don’t realize is that the greatest damage to you will be if the criminal gets access to your personal identification and financial records!!! A criminal can clone your identity and steal everything you have, up to an including selling your property. Passports can sell for as much as a thousand dollars. And a passport and your checkbook…kiss all that money good-bye.

Make sure the safe is bolted through the floor and cannot be carried out. If you are in a situation where you cannot use such measures (such as an apartment) then invest in a large, heavy duty filing cabinet with locks. Do NOT leave the keys nearby.

Tip #22 On top of everything else, get an alarm system.
This is another layer of the onion. You can go anywhere from a basic system to incredibly high tech.

Reason: Now that you’ve made it slow and difficult for him to get inside, an alarm is far more effective since it gives the cavalry a chance to arrive in time. In addition, burglar, carbon monoxide and fire alarms do wonders to keep your home owner’s insurance down.

Know however, that the bread and butter of most security companies is the service they sell you in support of the alarm system (calling the police, paging you if there is a problem or even sending their own guards). While shopping around is important, do your homework on security systems, providers and services first. And remember, you are investing for the long term. That is how you must think when investing in an alarm system.

Carjack: An Armed Response

Carjack: An Armed Response.

by Dennis Martin


You know about the dangers of urban life, and the predators that infest our cities, but as you speed down the streets, cocooned in an “encapsulated environment” you are you remote and protected�until you stop. Like a flash it happens, you are looking at the wrong end of a gun, and you are another victim, one who thought it would never happen to him. There are four components to our personal protective “package”: Mindset, Tactics, Skills and Equipment. We can prepare to fight our way out of the problem, and if all else fails we may need the hard option, but it is better to avoid the confrontation. The key to this is Mental Posture.


The first element of the Mindset phase is preparation, finding out about the methodology of the attack, case histories, news items. From this go into a planning stage, where you do a series of “what ifs”. Mental visualisation is essential; “see” yourself performing in the situation. Next comes rehearsal where you go through simulated attacks in a scenario situation. Ideally, you would do this under professional supervision, but tactically minded friends/colleagues could set these up for you. The final phase is situational awareness, used when actually operating. We will discuss this in detail.

The well-known concept of “defensive driving” can be extended to cover potential attacks, as well as traffic hazards. You should have your “mental radar” pulsing out, in Jeff Coopers’ renowned Condition Yellow. From the above preparation phase you are already aware of the patterns of attack, so you are alert for any attack indicators. Whenever you come to any “chokepoint” you are especially alert.

A good training method is to practise commentary driving, giving a continuous verbal commentary as you drive. This is how we train the bodyguards to increase awareness. Every feature, vehicle, hazard etc is noted and described. Eventually it becomes automatic.

When actually in a critical situation the OODA-Loop concept, taught by Marcus Wynne (see Combat Handguns, June 1996), enables you to process threat information and respond with the appropriate action. We have found the system highly relevant.

Being “switched on” gives you time, and time gives you options- to make decisions, to avoid, to escape. If you are driving in a rural area and you encounter a body in the road you should stop, reverse-out, then seek help. If the “body” jumps up and runs off, this is known in the trade as a clue! Leaving a possible casualty is not callous. Current European first aid training insists that with an unconscious casualty your first priority is to call for professional assistance. Faced with just such a “body” in the road, a South African women drove her 4�4 off road, going around the problem. She ran over two attackers hiding in the bushes and killed them!


Tactics allow you the maximum advantage in a situation. In a Carjack context tactics are not specialised, but must be adopted as part of your normal driving habits.

The first area to consider is parking the car, as this is a prime location for an attack. Try to park near the pay booth, or, the exit. Avoid areas which afford cover to a lurking attacker, such as bushes and low walls. Consider the lighting, it may be dark when you return to the vehicle. Reverse-in, so that you can drive straight out. Visually check the interior before opening the door, then use a tip from the bodyguards and back into the car, facing outwards so you can maintain visual scan.

Know exactly where the door handle is, especially in a strange car. You may need to exit quickly. Always drive with all doors locked. The bad guys look for the locking catch when assessing victims. A woman in South Africa left the doors unlocked and at a stop-light a well-dressed guy, with a briefcase and a pistol got in and told her to drive. Along the way he produced a cellular phone and made a call to a potential buyer describing the car, colour and mileage. When the buyer rejected the offer the guy told the woman to pull over, wished her “Good Day” and walked off.

When approaching a red light slowly “creep” up, to avoid stopping. If you must stop, allow yourself escape room between your car and the one in front.


This phase involves the various skills needed to avoid, or, react to an attack.

We have already mentioned Defensive Driving. This includes route planning, so that any stops, such as refuelling are done in low-crime areas. Added to this is Evasive Driving, which is a specialised skill, and we recommend attending professional training. The Scotti School is World renowned for all aspects of driver training. This installs the ability to manoeuvre out of danger. A typical program would include forward/ reverse slaloms, and J-turns. Finally, Offensive Driving allows breaking contact by ramming, or, using the car as a weapon.

A firearms training program should include weapon presentation from covert-carriage, seated presentations, multiple-target engagement and firing from vehicle cover positions. The shooter should then be introduced to firing from within the vehicle. Here it is often found necessary to modify the carriage method, or, position. Drills should include engaging through the open window, and also exiting then engaging.

Once the shooter is adept at accessing the weapon within the vehicle, he should experience firing through the windscreen and side windows. Under threat, as you forcefully extend the weapon there is a tendency to punch the window. This can cause you to lose your grip, to miss, or induce a stoppage. Allow a gap between muzzle and window. Multiple shots should be fired, especially through the windshield. Eye and ear protection is essential.


Unfortunately, neither I, nor any other instructor, can give you clear cut guidelines on when to submit, when to fight, in an article. It’s situational. Only you can assess all the factors, as they are happening, and make the appropriate decision. This is why hands-on training is so important. Scenario work, using Redman � suits and Simumitions � gives you the experience in a controlled learning environment.

If you decide to fight there are two main options:

Immediate counter-attack, either ramming, or, firing from within vehicle.

Exit the vehicle and counter-attack.

Factors to consider include whether you see the threat far enough in advance, whether you are taking fire (in which case you must counter-attack), or whether you can create a “window of opportunity” to access your weapon.

Avoidance and escape are much better options, but we must be prepared to fight. But, it’s a decision that only you can make�.because you are going to have to live with the consequences. It’s big boys rules!

I finish with a quote from Colonel Mike Henning, a highly experienced police SWAT instructor:

“We avoid the fight if we can, but if we must fight, we must win. Avoidance, or, victory, there is no other option.”

Defensive Tips


Carjacking is a relatively new breed as crimes go. Using violence to hijack commercial trucks filled with goods has been around ever since the wheel was invented. While it is pretty safe to assume that the first car was stolen shortly after the automobile was invented, car theft has normally been a nonviolent property crime. Until carjacking came around.

These days, many, if not most, car thefts are committed by organized rings. Stealing cars is big business. In fact, it has become not only interstate, but international — worth billions of dollars a year. It casts a massive shadow that extends from the legitimate (insurance companies, shipping companies and car dealerships) to questionable (shady auto body shops, junkyards and auto parts suppliers) to avowed criminals (gangs, drug- and illegal-alien-running cartels).

Car theft rings often recruit gang members and pay them upwards of $1,000 for what is, in effect, an hour’s “work.” They are sent out to steal a certain type of car. An industrious pack of nonviolent thieves can gather several cars in one day, netting upwards to $10,000 for a days work.

With carjacking, however, acquiring a car becomes just a few seconds of “work” and without telltale signs of break-in.

The 1995 Honda Civic was the most-stolen car during 2004, according to statistics from the National Insurance Crime Bureau.

Of the top 10 most-stolen vehicles, six were Japanese brands. All four domestic vehicles on the list are light trucks, including one minivan. The NICB statistics are based on data from the FBI Uniform Crime Report.

Popularity and longevity have a lot to do with a vehicle’s attractiveness as a theft target. Not only are there more vehicles available to steal, but as cars get older they require parts more frequently, creating demand for parts from stolen cars.

Types of vehicles stolen can vary by the region and state. For example, the 1999 Bombardier Ski-Doo snowmobile was one of the 10 most-stolen vehicles in Maine. In most Midwestern states, cars from Detroit-based manufacturers dominate the most-stolen cars lists with few, if any, foreign cars making the top 10.

Most stolen cars in 2004 included 1995 Honda Civic, 1989 Toyota Camry, 1991 Honda Accord, 1994 Dodge Caravan, 1994 Chevrolet full-size C/K 1500 pickup, 1997 Ford F150 pickup, 2003 Dodge Ram pickup, 1990 Acura Integra, 1988 Toyota pickup, 1991 Nissan Sentra.

Important Points to Know About Carjacking (the Bad News)�
Carjacking is a felony offense. In the eyes of the law, it is a violent crime against the person. That makes it not only a felony, but a higher class one. While grand theft auto also is a felony since it is not violent, the sentencing is less severe(1). A carjacker is risking a far more severe penalty if he is caught than a regular car thief. A person who is stupid, lazy, violent and selfish enough to think that this is an acceptable risk is not going to suddenly start making smart decisions when he has a gun in your face.

You are dealing with a stupid, violent person with a track record of violence. And now is not the time to be a hero.

If you argue or resist a carjacker, the odds are you will be shot.
Like all robbers, the carjacker has come to the situation ready, willing and able to commit violence. While it may seem “it comes out of the blue” to you, the carjacker already has prepared himself to commit violence. You are literally playing against a stacked deck. Everything he needs to commit serious violence is in place at the same time you are surprised and shocked.

Unfortunately, most people have never faced such raw, unbridled violence. They suddenly find themselves dragged out of their normal, everyday parameters of existence and thrown into a strange — and dangerous — alien landscape. It’s a place where none of the rules they are accustomed to apply. An effective strategy to “defend your space” under normal circumstances could in this instant get your brains blown into a fine pink mist.

Your normal defenses are not enough. Words, anger or outrage are insufficient to protect yourself against someone committed to violence. It is nearly impossible for the average citizen to effectively defend himself when confronted in such a wild and unexpected manner. To go instantly from thinking about scheduling the day or what you are going to have for dinner to the killing savagery necessary to overcome an armed opponent is beyond even most trained martial artists. And by the time you could muster enough outrage to effectively defend yourself, the carjacker would have long since pulled the trigger.

Carjackers seldom operate alone. Although you only may have seen the guy who stuck a gun in your face, chances are that there are more of them around. Car thieves in general and carjackers especially tend to operate in groups. Often a driver will stop, let one of the members out of his car and wait until the vehicle has been stolen. They will then caravan to a drop-off point, and the thief will rejoin his comrades. Working in this manner, a group of thieves can steal many cars in one night and split several thousand dollars.

If something goes wrong with the carjacking attempt (i.e., you miraculously defeat the carjacker in a blaze of kung-fu glory without getting shot) there is a very good chance that his cronies will open fire on you. And unlike the carjacker, the gunmen will not be close enough for you to karate chop him. No matter how good you think your martial prowess may be, you can’t dodge bullets — especially if you are trapped between two parked cars. This same problem applies to any firearm defense you might muster. You can easily find yourself in a firefight after shooting your primary attacker. These are situations where you will be responsible for where your bullets go and any rounds you might fire as the accomplices flee.

If the carjacker gets your purse, as well, now you have identity theft and burglary problems. It isn’t just the loss of your car that will be the problem, important information and credit cards are often lost in carjackings. This means you have to go through the hassles of canceling credit cards, changing your locks (remember he not only has your address now, but your keys, too) and protecting yourself from identity theft.

This is why you must spot the problem developing in order to save both yourself and your vehicle. If you don’t see it coming, the best you can hope for is to save yourself. And you do that by giving the carjacker what he wants without resistance and escaping with your life.

Important Points to Know About Carjacking (the Good News)�
There are two types of carjacking. The most common is when you walk to your car in a parking lot or street. The other is when you are in your car, but momentarily stopped (e.g., at a traffic light, entering traffic from a parking lot or turning).

The really good news is that what works to avoid being carjacked in the first example is the same as what you do to prevent yourself from being robbed. Those basic steps will go miles toward reducing your risk. By adding the following information and minor adjustments specific to carjacking, you can reduce your odds of being victimized even farther.

The other type of carjacking is best foiled by some simple measures.

Tips to Prevent Being Carjacked
What follows are minor additions to the information given on the robbery avoidance tips page. These apply directly to theft of your vehicle. The rarest form of carjacking is where the carjacker runs up to your car when you are stopped at a light, stop sign or parked, opens the door and drags you out. He then jumps in and drives away. For this type of carjacking.

Tip #1 Wear a Seatbelt
Not only can wearing a seatbelt save your life, but it also is a serious deterrent to carjackers.

Reason: A carjacking at a stoplight relies on speed. A carjacker has to open the door, quickly pull the person out of the vehicle, jump in and drive away. Locked doors and seatbelts slow down the process. He cannot gain access and pull you out of the car quickly. A would-be carjacker will see these conditions as he approaches and often abort the process.

Tip #2 When Stopped in Traffic, Leave Enough Room to See the Rear Tires of the Car in Front of You
While it is commonly the first vehicle at a light that gets carjacked, the second car often can be targeted — especially at stop signs and turn lanes where the car in front will be moving shortly. The idea is that by the time the carjacker pulls you out of your car, the car in front will have moved on.

Carjackings from stopped vehicles tend to occur in medium traffic levels. Gridlock is not conducive to a fast get away. Nor is the criminal going to be able to successfully steal your car when you are traveling 45 mph. Therefore, carjackings tend to happen in slow, stop or choke points (e.g., turn lanes, stop signs and driveway exits). These are places where the criminal will have the ability to quickly join other traffic and escape. The same elements that he needs in order to successfully carjack your vehicle can be used to foil his attempt.

Reason: By leaving enough space to see the tires of the car in front of you, you leave yourself room to maneuver. Different cars, SUVs and trucks have different turn radii so there is no hard and fast rule as to what this distance will be. But, generally speaking, being able to see the tires of the car in front of you over the hood of your vehicle should give you enough room.

If someone unexpectedly appears by your car door, you can — with this space — floor the accelerator and escape. There is no legitimate reason for a person to be in this position in the middle of traffic.

Although stopping at this distance can help prevent carjacking, it also is a safe driving practice. It can help keep your car from being pushed into the vehicle in front of you if your auto is rear-ended at a stoplight. It also helps prevent the car in front hitting your vehicle if it rolls back (as occasionally happens with stick shifts and bad drivers). And these kind of traffic accidents are more common than carjackings.

Note: When it comes to carjacking, there is a risk of being shot at this point. Several factors come into play, however. 1) Although many carjackers have guns, many thefts are done by groups or at knife point — especially in places where strict penalties exist for carrying a gun. (Remember, the criminal has to get to where he going to commit the crime. During that time, he is at risk of being stopped by a cop). So you are not always going to be facing a gun. 2) Many criminals are not good shots. The more distance between you and him, the safer you are. 3) It’s hard to shoot straight while dodging out of the way to avoid being run over. Face it, your car is bigger than he is. 4) Modern triage methods have greatly increased your chances of surviving a single gunshot. Now this last one may not sound like much of a comfort, but it is important. Your chances of survival are far less if you are trapped and the criminal shoots you multiple times. Your chances of surviving are much greater if you are shot only once while fleeing. The latter strategy gets you out of range of being shot more than once. Cold comfort we know, but it is a pragmatic and realistic approach to a dangerous subject.

Tip #3 Immediately Lock Your Doors When You Get In Your Car
This is a good habit to get into anyway. It takes no more than a second, and you can proceed to ready yourself for travel in greater safety and at your leisure.

Reason: General Ulysses S. Grant was once asked why he posted a line of cavalry around the camp. It was pointed out that any attack would easily punch through such a thin line. His response, “They buy us time. This way we don’t wake up with the bastards in our tents.” The same idea applies here. A locked door doesn’t necessarily stop a carjacker. But it does prevent you from first learning of his presence when he grabs you and drags you out of your car at knife point.

If you wish, you can make it to your second action after putting keys in the ignition and starting the car. That way, while you put on your seatbelt and adjust your belongings, your car is warming up. This is actually good for your engine since most of the wear and tear occurs when it is started. If instead of immediately putting it into gear and driving, you let it warm up, you will significantly extend the life of your engine. If an emergency arises, you can simply slam the car into gear and escape.

In the presence of a gun, however, we recommend getting out and giving up your car. He can pull the trigger faster than you can put your vehicle in gear and drive away.

Tip #4 Do NOT Open the Door or Roll Down the Window to Talk to Someone. It is usually a bad sign when someone unexpectedly appears at the side of your car. Like phone calls after 10 p.m., it’s not going to be good news. People who appear unexpectedly usually want something. If you decide to talk to them, do not open the door or roll the window down all the way.

Reason: Although a window won’t stop a bullet, it can stop hands and knives. By only rolling your window down slightly, you prevent an attacker from reaching in, opening your door, snatching items from your person or robbing you at knife point.

You might also want to put the car in gear before you crack the window. If something is amiss, you can accelerate out of danger. If someone tells you something is wrong with your car do not get out and look. Thank them for the information and tell them you will look into it. Then drive away.

Be especially cognizant of such a person grabbing and working your car door handle. There is no legitimate reason for such an action. Actions such as knocking at your window are often used as a cover for this. If you see a criminal trying to work your door handle, immediately put your car in gear and start driving away.

The second — and far more common — form of carjacking, however, is when the thief simply walks up when you are getting into your car and puts a gun in your face. The carjacker then grabs your keys (and possibly your purse), jumps in and drives away. This type of carjacking resembles a typical robbery. Again we stress that most of the same measures that will keep you safe from robbery apply here.

Tip #5 Look Around Before You Put the Key into the Lock
This is the second check to do in a fringe area (the first is when you entered). Most carjackings occur in parking lots, as do many robberies and abductions. It is an excellent strategy to look around before you put yourself into a position where you can be trapped.

It is better still to look around as you approach the car. If a shady character is close by, keep on moving. Do not put yourself in the narrow gap between cars.

Reason: A quick scan will show if you have been followed. Most carjackings occur as you open the car door or are getting ready to drive away. Many people wrongly assume that when they reach their cars, they are safe. Not true. Even if you lock the door, if he has a gund he can shoot through the window. Or he can smash the window and threaten you with a knife. It is far better to spot someone approaching as you near your car than to try and extract yourself from a situation already gone bad

Tip #6 Have Someone Time You to See How Long It Takes to Get into Your Car, Start It and Drive Away
Many people think of their vehicle as “safety.” But you will not be safe from a criminal on foot until your car is doing about 15 mph. This is why you should never try to reach your car if you think someone is trying to rob you. The time it takes to unlock your car, get in, start it, put it in gear, back out and drive away is too great.

Reason: Even when doing it as quickly as you can, this process is slow. Have someone start timing you at about 10 feet from the vehicle. Signal when you reach 15 mph in the car. Now see how much distance a person can cover in that time. The first time, again start 10 feet from your car and have the person helping you about 20 more feet behind you. That’s 30 feet from your car. You have to unlock the car and get in before the person reaches you. Repeat this, gradually increasing the distance until the person can no longer reach you before you drive away.

If an unsavory character is within that distance and approaching, do not try to get in your car. He is close enough to get to you.

This also is why you always need to look around when you reach your car and again before you try to put the key in the door. Knowing how long it takes will prevent you from making a potentially deadly mistake if there is a carjacker approaching.

Tip #7 If Someone Approaches While You’re Getting into Your Car, MOVE!
Do NOT stand there and watch him approach you: Control the distance by moving away from him.

Carjackers tend to work with partners. This is especially true, when they drive up to you as you are getting into your car. One jumps out and carjacks you while the other speeds away.

Reason A carjacker must close with you to gain control of the situation. Your feet are not nailed to the ground. If someone approaches you, move! Preferably, around the hood of your car, which puts something between you and him; as well as giving you cover in case he starts shooting. But get away from the car door.

Tips #8 Throw Your Car Keys
Your car keys go one way, you go another.

Reason: The criminal now has to choose, you or the car. If he is after your car, then his task is made more difficult because he has to go looking for the keys. If he decides to pursue you, then you know he wasn’t really interested in the car after all. This tells you the extent of your danger and what response is warranted. If he pursues you, he is running away from his escape route — whether that is your car or his friends in another vehicle.

Some might advocate throwing the keys at the criminal — we do not. The reason we advocate throwing your keys away from the criminal is twofold. First, he is not harmed which makes him less likely to shoot. If you hurt him, he now has an investment in hurting you back. Second, if you throw your keys at him then you are giving him your keys. By throwing them away, you increase your chances of his not getting your car.

Tip #9 Get Theft Insurance�
Certain cars are more likely to be targeted. Before you buy a new car, check with the police if that make of car is currently in the “Top 10” of stolen vehicles.

Reason: Cars are most often stolen for parts. The vehicle is chopped up and sold to body shops. The body shop pays $1,000 on a part that the manufacturer would charge $5,000 for. The shop turns around and charges you the dealer price and mark up. By doing this the shop made an additional $4,000 profit. This particular risk of theft lasts until enough of the car model becomes easily available in the junkyards — where parts can be legally purchased for a reduced price.

If given a choice between filing an insurance claim or getting shot, giving up your car suddenly looks much more appealing.

Tip #10 Get Lojack, On Star or Other Tracking Device
A locating system on your car can do wonders for getting it back before it is chopped up and also can help lower insurance rates with some agencies.

Reason: Stolen cars are often taken to large parking lots and left for a few days. Due to the high number of auto thefts, descriptions of stolen cars only stay on the “hot sheets” for a short time. (Hot sheets are listings and descriptions of newly stolen cars used for quick reference by law enforcement.) On cars that have been “stashed” for a few days, the only way to tell if they have been stolen is to pull them over and “run the numbers.” By simply waiting a few days, thieves greatly reduce their chances of being caught.

If your car has a locating system, however, all it takes is a phone call to have it found. If you make the call fast enough, you can often have the criminal arrested while still in the car.

Having both insurance and this kind of system will do wonders for your willingness to let the criminal have your car. This will lessen the chances of you foolishly trying to resist a carjacker, who gets the drop on you. And cell phones are faster than driving.

Tip #11, If Despite All this Information, a Carjacker Gets the Drop on You, Give Him Your Car Keys
It sounds so stupidly obvious to say this, but the number of people who are killed or wounded by carjackers every year, prove that people do it.

Do NOT attempt to argue, fight or resist someone who has a gun screwed up your nose!

Accept that he won this round and give him your keys.

Reason: The carjacker has come prepared for violence. You, on the other hand, were just getting into your car. It is an incredibly rare person who can flash into committing lethal violence. In fact by the time most people can get over their shock and decide to resist, the criminal has already pulled the trigger.

Even if you could make that mental jump that fast, it only takes a second to pull the trigger. Can you inflict lethal force that fast? That is what it would take to keep you teeth from being blown out of the back of your skull when the criminal has the drop on you.

Furthermore, at that range, the criminal will not just shoot you once, but repeatedly. This is why we suggest — if you lapsed in awareness and personal safety habits and allowed a carjacker to close with you — you just give up your car and accept the fact you have some identity theft, burglary and insurance problems coming your way. Alive with problems is better than dead or in the ICU with a sucking chest wound.

Why Are Carjackings More Dangerous?
While any kind of robbery is dangerous, carjackings take on a particularly nasty twist because the vehicles themselves create walls and limit your options.

In the Five Stages of Violent Crime, the third stage is called “positioning.” This is where the criminal puts himself into position to successfully attack you. One of the types of positioning is cornering/trapping. That is where the criminal ‘pins’ you between himself and a large object (such as the car). The presence of a car — and often the car door as well — seriously limits your mobility and increases your chances of being trapped. Even in an open parking lot, the presence of four cars can create a “hallway” that makes it easy to shoot you.

This is why you need to remember to flee in front of or behind your car. Do not run down the “hallway” between cars since that leaves you in the line of fire. By cutting in front of your vehicle or another, you put something between you and the criminal. Even if the cars are parked against the wall, there is often room for you to wiggle through. If not, scramble over the car’s hood or trunk.

The main idea, however, is to flee the scene ASAP.

Hostage Survival

Survival as a Hostage (Part I)

By Richard Clutterbuck

Being Mentally Prepared

Before considering contingency planning and crisis management, it is important to understand the ordeal of the hostage, because the negotiator must all the time try to visualize what is happening to him, and how he may be reacting.

The hostage will have more chance of survival if he is mentally prepared. The shock of being kidnapped will probably be the worst he ever has to endure. A busy, comfortable, gregarious and secure existence, in which he is always exercising options and getting a response, will suddenly be transformed into a forced inactivity and isolation, with no options at all, and great discomfort and degradation. The transformation will have been violent, and he will have been pushed around and possibly injured. He may have seen his driver or bodyguards killed trying to defend him. He will find himself stripped to his underwear, forced to ask for a bucket in which to perform his bodily functions in full view of people who seem to take a conscious delight in humiliating him. Worst of all will be fear, and particularly fear of the unknown. He does not know whether he will be tortured or killed, or if so, when. The ordeal is open-ended. And it will be made worse by self-pity or reproach:

‘why me?’, ‘if only…’ The first few hours will perhaps be the most horrible hours in his life.

He will endure the ordeal better if he has thought about it rationally, but not morbidly.

Depending upon how seriously he regards the threat and the character of those involved, he will gain from having discussed the possibility of kidnap with his wife or his colleagues.

Geoffrey Jackson did so with both, and with the Foreign Office in London. His book is truly valuable reading for anyone facing a high risk.

The more the victim knows about kidnapping, the less will be the fear of the unknown. He will be able to remind himself that only about 3 per cent of kidnap victims have been killed in cold blood (though more have been killed during the snatch or in rescue attempts); and that, though some hostages are held for a long time (one was held for twenty-two months before being released on payment of a ransom), the majority of kidnaps have ended in under five days. And — albeit cold comfort — he can recall that, if it does last longer, the human body and spirit have remarkable powers of adaptation, and that the great majority of hostages have survived without permanent damage.

Soldiers with duties classed as ‘prone to capture’ (e.g. in stay-behind parties, parachute units or deep penetration patrols) go through a basic program of training to prepare them for the ordeal. This includes simulation of treatment at capture (often painfully realistic), isolation, acute discomfort, degradation, and mental disorientation. All who have done this testify to its value. Even if the ordeal has only been faced mentally, the victim at least knows what to expect, and it will be easier to bear.

The Snatch

The moment of kidnap offers the best — and perhaps the only — chance of escape. Evasive driving has already been mentioned. A high-risk potential victim (or his driver) is more likely to grasp this fleeting opportunity if he has run through some scenarios in his mind, perhaps as he drives to and from work. The basis of these scenarios should be to do what the kidnappers least expect, as the best way of throwing them off their stride.

Curtis Cutter, US consul general in Porto Allegre, Brazil, thwarted a late-night kidnapping attempt outside his home in April 1970, when a car blocked his path and four armed men jumped out. He drove straight at the men, carrying one of them along on his bumper for several yards. The others fired and Cutter was wounded, but he escaped.

It was perhaps with this in mind that, when Hanns-Martin Schleyer’s car was blocked by the terrorists’ minibus in September 1977, the ‘gap’ was filled by a girl terrorist pushing a pram off the pavement. She knew that few drivers would run down a baby, and the hesitation proved fatal to the driver, the body guards and, in the end, to Schleyer himself.

Sometimes, particularly in a more lawless society, in which they know that witnesses will not dare to come forward, the kidnappers may deliberately pick a crowded street for the holdup, to give themselves more time and cover. Few policemen or bodyguards would fire unhesitatingly at a man amongst a crowd of innocent bystanders. In one Latin-American capital the victim’s car was rammed by another in a long, narrow, crowded shopping street.

The two drivers both got out and a long altercation ensued. The victim got out and joined in. By this time a large crowd had gathered round, amongst which were the other kidnappers (who had meanwhile signalled their other cars to block both ends of the street). Only when they were quite sure that all was set up and that they had got the right man did they produce their guns and bundle him into a car.

Once his car has been stopped and the victim finds himself facing armed men, there is little he can do. Unless police or bodyguards are still fighting to open an escape route, the only sensible course is usually to surrender and do what the terrorists say. Heroics achieve nothing unless there is a real chance of success.

The First Few Days

The victim should, from the moment of his capture, make a determined effort to recover his calm and alertness so that he can start making mental notes of any details likely to help the police. He will be able to compose himself more quickly if he avoids provoking his kidnappers. He should do his utmost to fix in his mind their faces, voices, dress and characteristics; how many they were; and the particulars of any vehicles that were involved. If psychologically prepared, he will be better able to discipline himself, to concentrate on these things rather than on agonizing over why it happened.

He will probably be forced face down on to the floor of the car so that he cannot see, and he may later be transferred into a closed van, or have his eyes covered and his ears plugged. Nevertheless, he should fix in his mind any clues he can get about his route: time, speed, distance, sharp turns, gradients, traffic lights etc.; and any sights or sound he is able to detect, such as crossing a railway or passing close to the airport; also the direction of the sun. If he has an idea whether he went north or south, he may possibly find a way of communicating this during negotiations, or in written or taped messages he is ordered to send out; even if he cannot do that, the information may help in arresting the gang later.

He should also try to detect the kind of place into which he is taken: e.g. into a garage with inside access to a suburban house, the car park under a block of flats, the back entrance of a shop, or a workshop or a warehouse. If the gang is a professional one, the likeliest eventual hideout (probably after at least one transfer between vehicles, and perhaps also after a brief spell in a transit lockup) will be a house, flat or garage in a quiet, prosperous suburb, which may offer more choices of getaway route than an isolated farmhouse. Again, the victim should consciously store sights, sounds and smells in his memory. At least one hostage contributed to the eventual capture of his kidnappers because he could hear aircraft taking off from a small and recognizable airfield; and another by remembering details of the wallpaper.

The treatment of the victim in the first few days after capture is likely to be at its most brutal, calculated to humiliate and demoralize. He may be injected with some drug such as scopolamine, designed to relax resistance and loosen the tongue. Geoffrey Jackson countered this drug by disciplining himself to talk fluently to the point of verbosity on unimportant issues and, if cornered on important ones, to attempt to blur his answers with more verbosity, in such a way as to make the two indistinguishable.

Interrogators are likely to use Pavlovian techniques of contrasting brutality and kindness, light and dark, noise and silence; and to attempt mental dis-orientation by sensory deprivation, probably keeping the victim permanently blindfolded, with ears plugged, without any means of telling the time of day, with deliberately irregular and unpleasant food (perhaps none at all for a time) and repeated interruption of sleep (if any). He can only steel himself to endure it, knowing that this is probably going to be the worst time of all, reminding himself again and again that the great majority of hostages survive.

He must be particularly careful not to reveal, unwittingly, anything about the likely reactions to his capture. He will probably be asked for a telephone number to ring; and he should think about who is likely to react best to the first message — because this first reaction can influence all subsequent negotiations. He should also avoid discussion about how ransom money might be raised, or to give any clue which will help the kidnappers to gauge the level at which to pitch their first demand. The only exception to this is that he could consider feeding in any genuine reasons why the sum the kidnappers are demanding could not conceivably be found — but this is a dangerous subject, and he may do better to avoid it if he can.

He must do his utmost to restore his own morale. Post-kidnap shock is a major physiological and psychological problem; and the fact that (unlike a soldier or a pilot in war) he may be wholly unprepared for it makes it worse. The kidnappers will do their utmost to exploit this in order to establish total dominance over him; and he must consciously resist that, not by heroics and provocation, but by battling to retain his self-respect and sense of humor. Geoffrey Jackson had his kidnappers laughing within minutes of his kidnapping by accusing them of trying to tattoo the Tupamaro emblem on his hand as they tried to inject him with a drug during the first bumpy car ride. He also took the offensive, though not provocatively, by telling them that he had already agreed with the British and Uruguayan governments that they would make no concessions of any kind to secure his release.

Survival as a Hostage (Part II)

By Richard Clutterbuck

Surviving the Long Night

Surviving the Long Night is the apt title of the US edition of Jackson’s book. Though most kidnaps end within a few days, the victim will do well to face the possibility of a longer ordeal. Again, his most vital task is to maintain his self-respect — and his physical and mental health. The kidnappers will still try to prevent this, but they may gradually relax. Most criminals retain a vestige of humanity which they cannot wholly stifle, though some fanatical political terrorists have none. The Japanese Red Army terrorists are specifically trained to stifle their human reactions and not to allow any softening of their attitude, either to victims or, if they are besieged, to negotiators.

The rapport which often develops between kidnappers and their victims is now well known, and its psychological roots are fully established. Provided that it does not lead him to give away vital information or encourage his kidnappers to hold out for a higher ransom, the victim should not resist the development of this rapport, but foster it. The more it develops, the less likely they are to kill him.

The hostage’s greatest enemy is demoralization by inactivity and morbid contemplation.

He should do his utmost to find positive things to do, within the limitations available to him. Exercise programs (like the Canadian Air Force 5BX system) can be done in any space in which a man can stand up and lie down. Mental exercises, such as memorizing details of his cell; or composing a diary or letter to be written later or (Jackson again) short stories, or verses; or designing the ideal home; or trying to memorize plays, poetry or music, can keep the mind from unhealthier thoughts. Planning escapes, however unlikely, may help, and soldiers are trained to start doing this — for psychological reasons — from the moment they are captured.

Provocative non-co-operation is likely to be counterproductive, but the victim may be able to restore his own morale by little victories such as persuading his captors to allow him a pencil and paper, or to alter a phrase in a letter or taped statement which they are compelling him to send out.

The problem of providing written or taped communications is a difficult one. On the whole, it is best to give them fairly freely. Some men will prefer to resist making statements which could be of propaganda value to their enemies; and all should certainly avoid saying anything which will give away important secrets, or put someone else’s life at risk. Apart from this, however, resistance may not be worth the price in exacerbation of the captor-hostage relationship. Statements will be recognized by everyone as being made under duress, and will carry no weight. On the positive side, they will help the police and the negotiators to judge the hostage’s state of mind, either from his recorded tone of voice, or from analysis of his handwriting by graphologists.

It is possible to agree in advance upon some system of codewords whose use can transmit a particular meaning; but they are probably of limited value. The victim may not know much worth communicating; he may find it difficult to arrange their inclusion without exciting suspicion; and the kidnappers may, deliberately or accidentally, dictate the inclusion of a word which sends a dangerously misleading message.

The conditions of a hostage are calculated to develop total dependence upon his captors. According to their whim, he eats or starves, sleeps or wakes, washes or urinates. He reverts to the relationship of a baby to its mother. His captors can assume the mantle of gods, with (literally) the power of life or death over him. This can be totally demoralizing, especially if the ‘gods’ are young enough to be his children and their doctrinaire opinions or lifestyle represent all that he despises. Nevertheless, provided that it is recognized, this relationship can be handled in such a way as to develop a constructive rapport, and to weaken the fanaticism and inhumanity of the kidnappers — because the effect works both ways.

Siege and Rescue

If the police discover where the hostage is being held, and can surround it or raid it before he is moved away, a totally new situation arises, psychologically and physically.

The handling of such a situation by police and negotiators is examined in Chapter Ten. The victim can play an important part, both in getting information out to the police, and in influencing the actions of his guards.

The police will be playing for time. One of the effects of this may be the intensification of the rapport between kidnappers and hostages, because they now share the same ordeal. Since the greatest threat to all their lives has become the guns of the police, the hostage may find himself identifying with his captors. He must not allow this feeling to go too far, but it can be helpful to the extent that it further reduces the likelihood of their killing him. He can subtly remind them that, once he is dead, they have not only played their last card, but they have also removed the only insurance they have against the police wading in with guns, grenades or incendiary devices to kill every one of them.

The victim’s best course is to do his utmost to calm them, lest they go berserk and kill both him and themselves, and to help spin out the negotiations. He should try both to weaken their resistance and to help to wear them out, physically and mentally. Their position of dominance has been destroyed. He can remind them, kindly if possible, that they can achieve nothing if they are dead, politically or otherwise; and that as kidnappers they have already forfeited all hope of being regarded by the public as martyrs. He may even feel a genuine desire to promise to do his best to reduce their sentences.

He should not agree to negotiate with the police in place of the kidnappers, since the process of negotiation with them gives the police and their psychiatric advisers the best hope of judging their state of mind. He should remember that, if the police know their job, they will have established surveillance microphones very soon after the siege is mounted. He should avoid reminding his captors of this, but should take whatever chances he can to direct the conversation in ways likely to help those who are trying ‘to rescue him.

If the kidnap ends with an armed rescue — whether after a siege or by a surprise raid — the hostage must help the police both to save his life and to capture the kidnappers. The police share these aims, so they will almost certainly shout instructions to him. These will probably be to lie down, keep still, and identify himself (if he is wise he will already have tried to communicate, through the bug or otherwise, how he is dressed). And, of course, it will be in everyone’s interest if he can persuade the kidnappers to yield


SPAM Recipes

Frijoles with SPAM �

Prep Time: 6 or more hours �
Cook Time: 2 hours �
Servings: 4 �

Ingredients �
– 12 ounces dried pinto beans washed and soaked overnight �
– 6 cups water �
– 1 onion cut into wedges �
– 1 bulb garlic broken into cloves �
– 2 bay leaves �
– 1 SPAM Classic (12-ounce) can, cut into 1/2-inch cubes �
– 2 tomatoes chopped �
– 3 jalapeno peppers chopped �

Directions �
In roasting pan, combine beans, water, onion, garlic, and bay leaves. Cover. Cook over medium heat 1� hours. Before serving, in skillet over medium-high heat, cook SPAM, tomatoes, and jalapeno peppers 7 to 10 minutes or until browned. Stir SPAM� mixture into bean mixture. Cook 20 to 30 minutes longer or until beans are tender �

Creamed SPAM �

Ingredients �
– 1 can SPAM Classic (12 oz.), diced �
– 1/3 cup flour �
– 2 1/4 cups milk �
– 1/2 teaspoon prepared mustard salt, and pepper, to taste �
– 8 eggs fried, scrambled or poached �
– 8 slices of bread or English muffins, toasted �

Directions �
In large skillet, over medium-high heat, fry SPAM until lightly browned; stirring often. Drain SPAM on paper towels. Return SPAM to pan and sprinkle with the flour, stirring to coat. Whisk in the milk and mustard. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is thickened. Season, as desired, with salt and pepper. Prepare eggs, as desired. For each serving, place toast on plate. Top with cooked egg and creamed SPAM mixture �

Fancy SPAM Musubi �

Ingredients �
– 1 can SPAM Classic (12 oz) �
– 1 clove garlic, minced �
– 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger �
– 1/3 cup brown sugar �
– 1/3 cup HOUSE OF TSANG� Soy Sauce �
– 2 tablespoons CARAPELLI� Olive Oil �
– 3 cups cooked white sushi rice �
– 1 package hoshi nori (Japanese dried seaweed) �

Directions �
Slice SPAM lengthwise into 8 equal pieces. In a shallow dish, combine garlic, ginger, brown sugar, and soy sauce. Place SPAM� slices in the mixture and let sit for 30 minutes. Remove and pat dry. In a skillet, heat the oil and brown the marinated SPAM slices. Moisten hands and mold rice into 8 thick blocks with the same outside dimensions as SPAM� slices. Cut nori into 8-1/2 inch strips. Place SPAM slices on rice blocks and wrap individual nori strips around each middle. Moisten 1 end slightly to fasten together and serve. The remaining marinate may be used as a dip. �

Crunchy SPAM Bites �

Ingredients �
– 2 cups sweetened corn cereal �
– 20 butter flavored crackers �
– 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder �
– 1/2 teaspoon onion powder �
– 1 can SPAM Classic (12 oz.)* * �
– 1 egg, beaten �
– For Cheese Dip: �
– 3 ounces processed cheese �
– 1/4 cup ranch salad dressing �
– 1/4 cup sour cream �

Directions �
Heat oven to 425�F. In a work bowl of a food processor, crush cereal and crackers*. Stir in garlic and onion powder. Using a butter knife, slice SPAM into one-fourth to one-half-inch slices. Using your favorite cookie cutter, cut SPAM into shapes. Dip SPAM into cereal mixture, then into beaten egg and again into the cereal mixture to coat. Place SPAM on a lightly greased baking sheet. Bake 15 minute, turning after eight minutes. Meanwhile, for cheese dip, melt processed cheese in a microwave-safe dish. Stir in dressing and sour cream until smooth. Serve SPAM bites with cheese dip for dipping. �

*If a food processor is not available, place the cereal and crackers in a plastic food storage bag. Seal the bag and use a rolling pin to crush the mixture. �

SPAM Breakfast Bagels �

Ingredients �
– 1 SPAM Classic (12-ounce) can �
– 2 tablespoons butter or margarine �
– 6 eggs beaten �
– 6 (1-ounce) slices American cheese �
– 6 bagels sliced �

Directions �
Slice SPAM Classic into 6 slices (3 x 1/4 inch). In skillet, saut� SPAM over medium heat until lightly browned. Remove from skillet; keep warm. In same skillet, melt butter; pour in beaten eggs. Cook and stir to desired doneness. Layer scrambled eggs, SPAM, and cheese on bagel bottom. Cover with bagel top �

SPAM Salad �

Ingredients �
– 1 SPAM Classic (12-ounce) can cut into strips �
– 1/4 cup butter softened �
– 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar �
– 3 tablespoons lemon juice �
– 1 (7-ounce) package rice sticks or 8 ounces angel hair pasta �
– 6 cups shredded cabbage or coleslaw mix �
– 1/2 cup chopped green onions �
– 1 large green bell pepper cut into thin strips �
– 1 cup seedless green grapes halved �
– 1 (11-ounce) can mandarin oranges drained �
– 1/4 cup toasted slivered almonds for garnish �
– 1/4 cup dried cranberries for garnish �

Directions �
Prepare the rice sticks or pasta as package directs. Meanwhile, in large skillet, saut� SPAM over medium heat until lightly browned. In small bowl, combine the butter, brown sugar and lemon juice. Add the brown sugar mixture to the SPAM. Simmer over low heat until the SPAM is evenly coated with the brown sugar mixture. Keep SPAM warm while assembling the salad. Place the cooked rice sticks or pasta on a large serving platter. Combine the cabbage and green onions; sprinkle cabbage mixture over rice sticks or pasta. Arrange the green pepper strips and grapes over the cabbage. Top with the saut�ed SPAM and mandarin oranges. Garnish as desired with slivered almonds and dried cranberries. �

The Original Baked SPAM Classic �

Ingredients �
– 1 SPAM Classic (12-ounce) can �
– whole cloves �
– 1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar �
– 1 teaspoon water �
– 1 teaspoon prepared mustard �
– 1/2 teaspoon vinegar �

Directions �
Heat oven to 375�F. Place SPAM Classic on rack in shallow baking pan. Score surface; stud with cloves. Combine brown sugar, water, mustard, and vinegar, stirring until smooth. Brush glaze over SPAM. Bake 20 minutes, basting often. Slice to serve. �

Island SPAM �

Ingredients �
– 1 can SPAM Classic (12-ounce), cut in cubes �
– 1 chopped onion �
– 1 clove chopped garlic �
– 1 1/2 cups water �
– 1 cup uncooked white rice �
– 1 tablespoon chopped parsley �
– 1 bay leaf, finely crushed �
– 1/4 teaspoon pepper �
– ground red pepper �

Directions �
In large skillet, lightly brown SPAM, onion, and garlic. Stir in remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, covered, 15 minutes. Sprinkle with red pepper before servings. �

SPAM Sticks �

Ingredients �
– 1 SPAM Classic (12-ounce) can �
– 1 egg �
– 2 tablespoons milk �
– 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour �
– 1/2 cup soda cracker crumbs �
– tartar sauce or ketchup �

Directions �
Heat oven to 375�F. Slice SPAM into 6 pieces; cut each slice in half lengthwise. Beat together egg and milk. Coat each SPAM slice with flour. Dip in milk mixture and roll in cracker crumbs. Place on baking sheet. Bake 15 to 18 minutes or until golden brown. Serve with tartar sauce or ketchup. �

SPAM Piccadilly �

Ingredients �
– 1 SPAM Classic (12-ounce) can �
– 1/4 cup cranberry-orange relish �
– 1/4 cup brown sugar �

Directions �
Heat oven to 350�F. Place SPAM loaf in small shallow baking dish. Combine relish and brown sugar; spoon over SPAM. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until hot. �

Crunchy SPAM Sticks �

Ingredients �
– 1 SPAM Classic (12-ounce) can �
– 1 egg �
– 2 tablespoons milk �
– 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour �
– 1/4 teaspoon black pepper �
– 1 cup instant mashed potato flakes �
– Ketchup �

Directions �
Heat oven to 375�F. Slice SPAM into 8 pieces; cut each slice in half lengthwise. Beat together egg and milk. Combine flour and black pepper. Coat each SPAM slice with flour mixture. Dip in milk mixture. Roll in potato flakes. Place on baking sheet. Bake 15 minutes or until golden brown, turning once. Serve with ketchup. �

Caribbean Mushrooms and SPAM �

Ingredients �
– 1 SPAM Classic (12-ounce) can cut in short strips �
– 1 tablespoon chopped green onion �
– 1 clove garlic minced �
– 1/4 teaspoon thyme �
– 8 ounces mushrooms sliced �
– 1 1/2 cups water �
– 1 green pepper cut in thin strips �
– 1 cup uncooked white rice �

Directions �
In skillet, cook SPAM, green onions, garlic, and thyme until lightly browned. Add mushrooms and water. Bring to a boil. Add green pepper and rice; reduce heat and simmer, covered, 15 minutes. �

Curried SPAM and Rice �

Ingredients �
– 1 can SPAM Classic (12 oz), diced �
– 2 cups cooked rice �
– 1 cup frozen peas �
– 1 cup celery, sliced �
– 1/3 cup chopped red onion �
– 1 cup mayonnaise �
– 1/2 cup PATAK’S Major Grey Mango Chutney , chopped �
– 2 tablespoons sugar �
– 2 tablespoons lemon juice �
– 1 1/2 teaspoons curry powder �

Directions �
In a large mixing bowl, combine SPAM, rice, peas, celery, and onion. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, chutney, sugar, lemon juice and curry powder until well blended. Add dressing to SPAM mixture. Toss gently to coat with dressing. Cover and refrigerate at least one hour. �

Hawaiian SPAM Sandwich �

Ingredients �
– 1 can SPAM Classic (12-ounce), cut into 8 slices �
– 1 can pineapple rings (8-ounce), drained �
– 4 slices American cheese �
– 4 hamburger buns, split and toasted �

Directions �
Brown SPAM slices in skillet. Place 2 SPAM slices on each bottom half of hamburger bun. Top with pineapple ring and cheese slice. Cover sandwich with top half of bun �

Sunnydogs �

Ingredients �
– 1 can SPAM Classic (12 oz.) �
– 1 1/2 cups complete buttermilk pancake mix �
– 1/4 cup water �
– 2 eggs �
– 1/2 cup applesauce �
– 1 teaspoon vanilla �
– 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon �
– 18 popsicle sticks, short kabob sticks or toothpicks �
– vegetable or light olive oil �
– honey, maple syrup and applesauce, for dipping �

Directions �
Cut SPAM widthwise into 6 sections (1/2 inch pieces). Cut each section into thirds. In bowl, combine pancake batter, eggs, applesauce, cinnamon and vanilla. Slowly add water and stir until combined. Place SPAM pieces into batter and coat evenly. Meanwhile, heat a large nonstick skillet with a small amount of vegetable oil over medium heat. Remove SPAM from batter with a fork and let the excess batter drip off of the SPAM pieces. Place SPAM into skillet and cook until cakes are golden brown and batter is cooked through, turning once. Repeat with additional SPAM and pancake batter. To serve, insert popsicle sticks into the SPAM and serve with honey, maple syrup or applesauce for dipping. Makes 18. *Tip: Use any excess pancake batter to make small pancakes to serve alongside sunnydogs. �

SPAM Stroganoff �

Ingredients �
– 1 SPAM Classic (12-ounce) can �
– 1/2 cup chopped onion �
– 2 tablespoons butter or margarine �
– 1 (10 3/4-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup �
– 1 (4-ounce) can sliced mushrooms drained �
– 1/8 teaspoon black pepper �
– 1 cup sour cream �
– cooked egg noodles �

Directions �
Cut SPAM into strips 2×1/2-inch strips. In large skillet, saut� SPAM and onion in butter until onion is tender. Stir in soup, mushrooms, and pepper. Simmer 10 minutes. Stir in sour cream. Heat thoroughly but do not boil. Serve over noodles. �

SPAM Muffins �

Ingredients �
– 2 cans SPAM Classic (divided) �
– 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour �
– 1 1/2 cups cornmeal �
– 1/2 cup sugar �
– 1 tablespoon 1 teaspoon baking powder �
– 2 cups milk �
– 1/2 cup vegetable oil �
– 2 eggs �
– 1 cup canned corn �
– 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack and Colby Cheese �
– Heart-shaped muffin pans or small disposable heart-shaped pans �

Directions �
Preheat oven to 400�F. Slice one can of SPAM into 8 slices and set aside. In bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, sugar and baking powder. In another bowl, combine milk, oil and eggs. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients. Pour in the liquid mixture and stir until well combined. Dice the remaining SPAM and stir into the cornmeal mixture. Stir in the corn and cheese. Lightly spray the heart-shaped muffin tins or pans with nonstick cooking spray. Fill each cup 2/3 full with batter. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Meanwhile, cook sliced SPAM in skillet until golden brown. Cut slices into heart shapes using a small heart-shaped cookie cutter. Before serving, place one heart on each muffin. �

SPAM Sandwich Spread �

Ingredients �
– 1 can SPAM Classic (12 oz), or any variety �
– 1 small onion �
– 2 tablespoons pickle relish �
– 3 dashes of salt and pepper �
– 6 tablespoons (or more) salad dressing or mayonnaise �

Directions �
Grind the SPAM and onion in food chopper. Mix with salad dressing enough to spread evenly. �
Enchilada Breakfast Casserole �

12 oz can SPAM – cubed 1/2″ 4 eggs �
1 small onion chopped 2 cups whipping cream �
1 small green pepper, chopped 1 tbsp all-purpose flour �
1 small tomato, chopped 4-oz can diced green chiles �
2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese 1/4 tsp garlic powder �
8 7″ flour tortillas Picante sauce �

Place about 1/4 cup SPAM, 1 tablespoon onion, 1 tablespoon green pepper, 1 tablespoon tomato and 1 tablespoon cheese on one side of tortilla. Set remaining cheese aside. Roll up jelly-roll fashion; place seam side down in greased 13×9″ baking dish. In small bowl combine remainin ingredients; blend together with wire whisk. Pour over ehchiladas. Cover; refrigerate overnight. Heat oven to 350. Bake, uncovered, for 40 to 50 minutes or until egg mixture is set. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Return to oven; bake for 5 minutes or until cheese is melted. Serve with picante sauce. Yield: 8 enchiladas. �

Fritatta �

3 tbsp butter 7-oz can SPAM, cubed 1/4″ �
1/2 cup chopped onion 10 pitted black olives, chopped �
1/2 cup chopped green pepper 6 eggs �
2 medium potatoes, peeled and 2 tbsp water �
cubed 1/4″ 1/4 tsp pepper �

In 10-inch omelet pan or skilet melt 2 tbsp butter over medium heat. Add onion, green pepper and potatoes; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are crisply tender (5 to 7 minutes). Add SPAM and olives; continue cooking until SPAM is heated through. Loosen sauteed ingredients from bottom of pan; add remaining 1 tbsp butter. Tilt pan to cover bottom with butter. In small bowl mix eggs, water, and pepper; pour over SPAM mixture. Cover; cook over low heat 12 to 15 minutes or until egg mixture is set on top. With pancake turner, loosen edges and bottom; invert onto serving platter. Yield: 6 servings. �

Country Rice Salad �

1/4 cup olive oil 10-oz pkg frozen peas, thawed & drained �
9 green onions, sliced 1/4″ 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley �
1 1/2 tsp paprika 3 1/2-oz pkg sliced pepperoni �
1/2 tsp cumin 1 red pepper, cut into 1/4″ strips �
2 cups rice 1 green pepper, cut into 1/4″ strips �
2 (14 1/2-oz) cans chicken broth �
12-oz can SPAM, cut into 2×1/4″ strips �

In 3-quart saucepan heat oil over medium heat. Add green onions; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is tender. Add paprika and cumin; stir to blend. Add rice, coating grains with oil. Add chicken stock; stir to combine. Cook over low heat until rice is tender and all liquid is absorbed (20 to 30 minutes). Meanwhile, in skillet cook SPAM over medium heat, turning occasionally, until SPAM is heated through (4 to 5 minutes). Add peas and chopped parsley to rice mixture. Stir in remaining ingredients or arrange ingredients on salad. Serve at room temperature. Yield: 6 servings. �

Three bean salad �

7-oz can SPAM, cubed 1/2″ 1/3 cup choppd onion �
16-oz can cut green beans, 1/3 cup sugar �
drained 1/3 cup cooking oil �
16-oz can yellow wax beans, 1/3 cup cider vinegar �
drained 1/4 tsp pepper �
16-oz can kidney beans, 1 tbsp stone ground mustard �
drained �

In medium bowl combine SPAM, green beans, wax beans, kidney beans and onion. In small bowl combine remaining ingredients; pour over SPAM mixture. Stir gently, mixing thoroughly. COver; refrigerate 2 to 3 hours or until serving time. Yield: 6 servings. �

Cool cucumber avocado sandwiches �

-oz pkg cream cheese, 1 medium cucumber, sliced 1/4″ �
softened 12-oz can SPAM, sliced 1/8″ �
1/4 cup sour cream 2 ripe avocados, cut into 1/4″ wedges �
1/4 cup chopped fresh dillweed 2 tbsp lemon juice �
1/4 tsp pepper 8 slices rye bread �

In small bowl combine cream cheese, sour cream, dillweed and pepper; stir to blend. Spread 2 tablespoons cream cheese mixture on each slice of bread. Reserve remaining cream cheese mixture. Arrange cucumber slices on bread slices; op with 3 slices of SPAM. Dip avocados in lemon juice; Arrange on sandwiches. Garnixh with remaining cream cheese mixture. Yield: 8 sandwiches. �

Reuben sandwich �

8-oz can sauerkraut 8 slices rye bread �
1 cup grated swiss cheese 3 tbsp butter, softened �
1/4 cup Russian dressing 12-oz can SPAM, cut into 8 slices �

Rinse sauerkraut; drain well. In small bowl combine sauerkraut, cheese and dressing; mix well. Spread each bread slice on one side with butter. Spread half of sauerkraut mixture on unbuttered side of 4 bread slices; top each with 2 slices SPAM. Cover with remaining sauerkraut mixture. Top with remaining rye bread, buttered-side up. Grill over medium heat in skillet or griddle until cheese melts and sandwiches are browned on both sides. Yield: 4 sandwiches. �

Cornbread brocolli pie �

8 1/2-oz pkg cornbread mix 10-oz pkg frozen broccoli spears �
12-oz can SPAM, cubed 1/2″ thawed and drained �
1 1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese �

Heat oven to 400. Prepare cornbread according to package directions. Stir in SPAM. Spread into greased 9″ pie plate. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until cornbread is almost done. Arrange broccoli spears on top of cornbread; sprinkle with cheese. Return to oven; continue baking for 5 to 10 minutes or until cheese is melted and cornbread is completely baked. Yield: 6 servings. �

Hearty bean soup �

2 cups dried pinto beans, 3 cloves garlic, minced �
wash and soak overnight 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar �
120oz can SPAM, cubed 1/2″ 2 tbsp chili powder �
1 quart water 3 bay leaves �
2 (13-oz) cans tomato juice 1 tsp oregano �
1 (14-oz) cans chicken stock 1 tsp cumin �
1 medium onion, chopped 1 tsp thyme �

In 4-quart saucepan add all ingredients; stir to blend. Cook over medium heat until mixture comes to a boil. Boil for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low; continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until soup is thickened (3 to 4 hours). Remove bay leaves. Yield: 6 servings �

Spaghetti carbonara �

1 1/2 lbs spaghetti 4 eggs, slightly beaten �
12-oz can SPAM, cubed 1/4″ 1/2 cups grated parmesan cheese �
1/2 cup chopped onion 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley �
3 tbsp olive oil ground pepper �
3 tbsp butter �

Cook spaghetti according to package directions. Meanwhile, in skillet cook SPAM and onion in oil and butter over medium heat until lightly browned. Set aside. When spaghetti is cooked, drain; return to pot. Add egs; toss to combine. Add SPAM mixture, cheese and parsley; toss to combine. Season to taste with pepper. Serve immediately. Yield: 6 servings. �

Summer skillet supper �

2 tbsp butter 12-oz can SPAM �
6 medium new potatoes, 16-oz whole tomatoes �
sliced 1/8″ 1 tsp basil �
3 medium zucchini, cut into 1 tsp oregano �
1/4″ slices 1/4 tsp pepper �
1 large onion, thinly sliced �

in 10″ skillet melt butter over medium heat. Add potatoes; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until tender (6 to 8 minutes). Add zucchini and onions; continue cooking until vegetables are crisply tender (3 to 4 minutes). Cut SPAM into 6 slices; halve each slice. Add remaining ingredients; stir to blend. Cover; cook over medium heat until heated through (8 to 10 minutes).Yield: 4 servings. �

Foil dinner on the grill �

1/4 cup brown sugar 8 new potatoes, sliced 1/4″ �
1/4 cup beer 2 cups carrots, sliced 1/4″ �
1/4 cup stone ground mustard 1 large onion, thinly sliced �
1/2 tsp celery seed 12-oz can SPAM, cut into 12 slices �

In small bowl combine brown sugar, beer, mustard, and celery seed. Divide vegetables and SPAM into equal portions, arranging each portion on a 18×12″ piece of foil; drizzle mustard sauce over each and fold up to form 5×4″ packet, sealing well. Place over medium hot coals, grilling 45 to 0 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Yield: 6 servings. �

Cabbage apple supper �

1/4 cup butter 1/3 cup honey �
2 cooking apples, sliced 1/4″ 1/2 tsp nutmeg �
3 cups shredded cabbage 1/4 tsp clove �
12-oz can SPAM, cubed 1/2″ �

In skillet melt butter over medium heat. Add remaining ingredients; toss to combine. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until apples and cabbage are tender and SPAM is heated through (10 to 12 minutes).Yield: 4 servings. �

Cantonese sweet and sour �

2 tbsp cooking oil 3 tbsp sugar �
1 lg. carrot, sliced diagonally 3 tbsp catsup �
6 green onions, sliced 1/4″ 3 tbsp vinegar �
1 clove garlic, minced 1 tsp ginger �
1 small cucumber, cut in chunks 1 tsp soy sauce �
2/3 cups water 12-oz can SPAM, cubed 1/2″ �
1 tbsp cornstarch 8-oz can bamboo shoots, drained �

In wok or large skillet, cook oil over medium heat. Add carrot, green onion, garlic and cucumber; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until crisply tender (4 to 5 minutes). Add remaining ingredients except SPAM and bamboo shoots. Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until suce is thickened (5 to 6 minutes). Add SPAM and bamboo shoots. Cook over medijm heat until heated through (4 to 5 minutes). If desired, serve over rice. Yield: 4 servings �

Polynesian bake �

1/4 cup lemon juice 12-oz can SPAM, cut into 7 slices �
1/4 cup apricot preserves Dried apricots �
1 tbsp prepared mustard Maraschino cherries �
1/4 tsp pepper Mushrooms �
1 fresh pineapple �

Heat oven to 350. In small bowl combine lemon juice, preserves, mustard and pepper; stir to blend. With sharp knife, halve the pineapple, cutting through foliage and fruit. Cut flesh away from skin; slice crosswise to yield 6 slices. Use remaining pineapple half in fresh fruit salad or serve fresh pineapple with other meals. Alternate pineapple, SPAM slices to form loaf; place in halved pineapple. Brush with apricot mixture. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until heated through, brushin with marinade every 15 minutes. Garnish with dried apricots, maraschino cherries or fluted mushrooms. Yield: 6 servings �

Open-faced SPAMburgers �

1 can Spam �
10 oz. Velveeta cheese �
1/4 cup onion, diced �

Grate the Spam and the Velveeta cheese (difficult to do, but it can be �
done). Mix all ingredients together by squishing with your hand like �
you would a meatloaf mixture. Spread mixture onto hamburger bun halves �
and broil until tops are bubbly and slightly burnt. �

SPAM Wellington �

2 cans Spam �
1 can Pillsbury biscuit dough �
1/2 cup brown sugar �

Preheat oven to 350. Place SPAM, as close together as possible on �
cookie sheet. Sprinkle with brown sugar. Pop Pillsbury can. Cover �
SPAM with dough. Mash edges of dough together with fingertips so �
that SPAM is not exposed. Bake for 30 minutes or until dough is golden �
brown. Let stand 10 minutes before carving. �

Basic Baked SPAM �

1 can SPAM 2 teaspoons yellow mustard �
Whole cloves 2 teaspoons water �
2/3 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon Worchestershire sauce �
1 teaspoon vinegar �

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Score SPAM in diamond pattern and dot �
with cloves. Mix sugar, vinegar, mustard, water and Worchestershire. �
Brush on SPAM. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, basting three or four times. �
Note: This is a generous amount of topping, enough for two cans �
of SPAM at once, if you want to serve more. �

Spambalaya �

1 (12 ounce) can SPAM Lite Luncheon Meat, cubed �
1 cup chopped onion �
2/3 cup chopped celery �
2 cloves garlic, minced �
1 (14-1/2 ounce) can Cajun style or regular stewed tomatoes �
1 (10-3/4 ounce) can lower sodium chicken broth �
1/2 teaspoon dried leaf thyme �
6 to 8 drops hot pepper sauce �
1 cup CAROLINA or RIVER rice �
2 tablespoons chopped parsley �

In lagre non-stick skillet or 3-quart non-stick saucepan, saute SPAM �
Luncheon Meat, onion, green pepper, celery, and garlic until vegetables �
are tender. Add tomatoes, chicken broth, thyme, hot pepper sauce, and �
bay leaves. Bring to a boil; stir in CAROLINA or RIVER rice. COver. �
Reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes or until rice is tender. Discard �
bay leaves. Sprinke with parsley. Makes 6 servings. �

SPAM and Popping Peas �

1 can SPAM 1/2 package medium egg noodles �
1 large can whole tomatoes 1 package frozen peas �
1 package dry onion soup �

Fry SPAM cubes for a few minutes. Add soup mix and tomatoes. Mash the �
tomatoes with a spoon. Add noodles (uncooked) and cook until soft. �
Then, add peas and cook a few minutes. Do not overcook. They should �
pop in your mouth. �

SPAM Quiche �

1 (9inch) pie shell, frozen or your 3 eggs �
own recipe 1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk �
1 tablespoon butter or margarine 1/2 teaspoon salt �
1/2 cup SPAM, cut into 1/2 inch strips 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg �
1/4 cup onion, sliced Dash of Tabasco sauce �
1 cup grated cheese (Swiss, Cheddar, Parmesan cheese �
or Jack) �
1 cup broccoli, sliced and parboiled �

Bake pie crust in 450 degree oven for 5 minutes. Set aside. �
Parboil (or microwave) broccoli and drain. Saute SPAM and onions �
in butter until onions are limp. Fill pie crust with SPAM, onions, �
broccoli and grated cheese. Beat together eggs, evaporated milk, �
nutmen, salt and Tabasco sauce. Pour egg mixtre over the ingredients �
in pie crust. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Bake at 425 degrees �
for 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake �
for 20 minutes or until quiche is set and golden brown. Cool 10 �
minutes before slicing. Serves 6. �

SPAM Stuffed Celery �

1 can spam, grated Dash of pepper �
1/4 cup onion, minced Celery stalks �
3 to 4 tablespoons mayonnaise �

Mix grated SPAM, onion, mayonnaise and pepper. Cut celery stalks �
into 2 to 3 inch lengths and stuff with SPAM.

How to Win with Asymmetric Warfare

How to Win with Asymmetric Warfare, by Robert R.�

As preface, I would like to say that I abhor violence and believe killing should only be done when absolutely necessary, but if things in America ever deteriorate to the point of national collapse, with murderous gangs of looters, or other violent oppressive groups wandering the land, it might be worth going on the offensive instead of sitting tight and hoping for the best. Even in the most well-defended retreat, a dedicated group of aggressors has all the time in the world to devise an attack strategy that could defeat you. They could rain .50 caliber rounds on you from a mile away, or take pot shots at you any time you peek out a window or attempt to go outside, until you run out of food or ammunition, or they could set your retreat on fire.�

Sometimes it is necessary to go on the offensive to erase the enemy capability to do you harm. One or two well-equipped, well-trained individuals can defeat a much larger force. Unconventional tactics must be adopted, with a guerrilla “hit and run” strategy in mind. Sun Tzu wrote the widely known “The Art of War” (which is available as a free e-book). It is still taught in military institutions around the world. The concepts laid out all those years ago are still the same that work today. �

For the sake of brevity, this is my extremely condensed version of The Art of War. (I suggest that you get a copy and study it.) These are the principles that guide my ideas in resisting a government gone crazy, foreign invasion, or terrible social disorder where all Schumer has broken loose. �

1. When you avoid battle, you are invulnerable. When you partake in battle, you become vulnerable. (this ties directly with Concept 2)�

2. Only choose the battles that you know you will be victorious in. Having the wisdom to avoid battles you cannot win, and knowing how to strike when you cannot lose, makes you invincible. �

3. It is greater to take the enemy’s weapons, equipment, food, resources, than it is to destroy them. �

Concepts explained�

1. It is pretty easy to understand this concept. If you never attend the gun battle, you can never get killed in the gun battle. If you decide to show up, you risk being shot. This brings us to the next concept, which is extremely simple if you keep concept #1 in mind, but extremely complicated because��

2�there are in infinite amount of possible variables that could contribute to your tactical situation. The enemy may or may not have snipers over looking his “weak” points to pick off possible troublemakers. The enemy may or may not have any number of tools at his disposal, from land mines, to guard dogs, thermal night vision, surveillance drones, or any assortment of lethal and unseen assets intending to capture or kill you.�

This is where knowing your enemy comes into play. You have to make a study out of the enemy. When do certain activities happen? (Guard shift changes, meal time, sleep time, patrols, et cetera.) What is left unguarded and when? What is the chain of command? Where are the communications located? What events will cause a mobilization of forces? All these questions and many more must be asked and answered. It only benefits you to know as much as possible about your adversary.�

All that information helps you to decide if you can potentially make a strike against your enemy without taking losses, or by taking acceptable losses. Acceptable losses in a group of five family members may mean that only a plan that is likely to produce no losses is acceptable. But if you are taking part in a full scale guerilla war against an occupational military force, then some losses may be acceptable if certain objectives have to be met for victory on a strategic level.�

Concept 2 is to only fight when you know you will win. This is done by gathering as much information as possible and putting yourself in your enemy’s shoes so you can choose when, where, and how you want to fight. �

3. If possible, recover any assets from your enemy that may be of potential use. Magazines, weapons, armor, night vision, batteries, anything. This also means gathering items of possible intelligence value like; unit patches, force deployment maps, supply information, duty rosters, and chain of command information. You could even steal uniforms for possible impersonation of enemy forces in later operations. Your victory is all the sweeter if your engagement not only produces dead bad guys, but extra weapons and supplies to continue the fight and lessen the strain on your own supplies.�

Make the best use of your money to allow you the most capabilities in combat. Arm and equip yourself in a manner that allows you flexibility in tactics so you can choose to fight and win in instances that someone might normally be unable to fight at all. For example.�

Example: John decides he is going to buy an M1A, a FAL, two AR15s, two Mini-14s, one Glock, one SIG pistol, one HK pistol, and a couple of revolvers. He buys 10 sets of woodland BDUs and 3 pairs of GI combat boots. He spends an additional $2,000 on all the different spare magazines that he will need for all his different guns. He spent roughly $12,000 for everything and is essentially limited to carrying one rifle and a sidearm, and being camouflaged in a woodland environment no colder than 45 degrees. The other weapons will stay at home and he can’t go out on operations during the winter months because he would freeze.�

Example: Bill buys an AR-15, mounts an EOTech sight with night vision capability and an AAC suppressor, along with 500 rounds of subsonic .223 ammunition. He buys a set of decent Generation III night vision goggles. He buys a few sets of BDUs for the summer months and heavier clothing for the winter months, including cold weather boots. He also buys a .45 pistol with suppressor and pretty much all .45 ammo in the 230 grain weight is subsonic already. Last but not least, he buys a tactical vest to carry all his magazines and side arm in for easy access.�

Bill spends about the same amount of money as John, yet is a much more well-rounded warrior. He can operate in just about any climate, save for extreme weather. He could sneak around at night with night vision goggles and utilize his suppressed weapons to take out any threats with barely making a sound (that could be heard more than a short distance away). (Subsonic ammunition is essential.) �

Bill could sneak into an enemy camp and quietly send potentially dozens of people off into the after life with his suppressed pistol, and walk away without anyone ever knowing he was there. John on the other hand could do no such thing. John would stumble through the darkness, possibly bump into someone, and discharge his weapon, waking up everyone within a mile. �

So try to spend your money in ways that add to your capabilities. Some redundancy is good, but some flexibility is very important as well.�

Be creative in your tactics Be creative in your fighting. Use outside the box thinking. For instance:�
In many previous wars, weapons have been booby trapped to explode when fired. Ammunition can be loaded to explosive pressures and left for the enemy to find. Poisons quietly poured into tomorrow’s breakfast ration during the night could potentially incapacitate a large majority of the enemy force in one sitting. Creating diversions to draw attention away from your main objectives is often a good idea. Setting fires in multiple places simultaneously creates confusion and panic. You get the idea, just be creative. Use all things to your advantage!�

Most people reading this have probably read JWR’s novel, “Patriots”: Surviving the Coming Collapse”, so I will use a few examples of how things could have gone differently if the characters in the book had some other equipment on hand during some of their battles.�

Somewhat early into the book, a number of vehicles try to attack the retreat but are stopped by small arms fire and are eventually killed after a gun battle with some well trained and entrenched defenders. Just to throw out an idea for additional defensive measures. Create pieces of cover for attackers to use when attempting to overtake your position. If you are over looking 200 yards of open grass, you place seemingly harmless things leading up to your position that can be used as cover. Maybe a small shed that one might think is used for storing tools.�

When attacked, enemy forces will try to use this shed for cover and will take refuge behind it. Unknown to them, the shed is filled with 50 pounds of Tannerite(–a binary explosive target mixture that is legal for individual to own without any permit or license in most of the US–) and gasoline. When they get close enough to use it for cover, you shoot the shed, detonating the explosives and fuel, creating one h**l of a blast and fireball, and eliminating (or at least badly discouraging) the attackers that were hiding behind it. �

Another situation the characters found themselves in was when they were driving to go rescue two of their own who hadn’t been able to make it to the retreat. On the journey they encounter a road block and one of their members is shot and killed. That night the two remaining members of the rescue team ambush the road blockers and kill them during a pretty one sided shootout.�

If the rescue team had a set of night vision goggles they could have traveled completely by darkness and possibly avoided detection. Also, upon spotting the road block, one member could have approached the road block on foot with a suppressed pistol and neutralized all the threats as they slept without drawing any attention to the area with loud gun shots and without risking any team members in a shootout.�

I hope that this helps everyone think more outside the box when considering their preparedness plans. Be as aggressive as possible without being reckless. Remember the basic concepts and think, move, and fight like a predator.

How to Stay Lost

Section 1: What I’ll be discussing in this how-to essay

There are many good reasons to want to disappear from society. There are many bad reasons to want to. There are many good ways to disappear from society and there are many bad ways to disappear. While I won’t delve too deeply into the whys of disappearing, I will cover my opinions on how to disappear successfully.

This essay covers what I consider to be the most salient points on how to disappear and remain successfully hidden in society.

  • If you’re thinking of hiding from a moral responsibility — such as child support — I want you to stop reading this right now and shoot yourself. This web page isn’t for you. If you’re thinking about committing a crime and then trying to get away with it, don’t be an idiot: you will get caught — it’s just a matter of when — and nothing on this web page can possibly help you.

If you’re thinking of running from an abusive ex-husband or ex-boyfriend who wishes to do you harm, I wish you the very best and hope that some of these suggestions and contact references prove helpful though most of it, I’m afraid, is probably unworkable, silly suggestions that won’t help you one bit.

  • If you’re thinking about taking your children with you, DON’T! Bring yourself and your children to a shelter in another State but for no reason should you ever drag your children around with you while on the run or while hiding. They don’t deserve the abuse and you’re being selfish if you try to. If you need help caring for your children but need to run from a dangerous spouse, ex-spouse, girl/boy friend, or ex-girl/boy friend, dial a domestic violence group and ask about what your options are for your safety and the safety of your child or children. Call before you leave if possible but most certainly call someone if you and your children must flee. The authorities will be highly motivated into tracking you down if you bring your kids with you as well. Think about what’s best for those you leave behind and, as difficult as it will be leave them behind!
  • While there are many shelters for women, finding a shelter for yourself and your children if you are a man is going to be difficult. References provided toward the end of the essay should be helpful in this regard yet understand that if you’re a man fleeing spousal abuse, society just doesn’t care too much about you. A man still has many options, however, yet, in America, there are fewer than for a woman.

Women who make allegations of child abuse against their husbands, ex-husbands, or ex-boyfriends are likely to be considered truthful in society in far greater percentages than such claims made by men against their female counterparts. A man who must take himself and his children away from an abusive female is likely to be accused of child abuse and American society is likely to believe the allegations.

Because of this, whether you’re a man or a woman, protect yourself from such allegations by documenting abuses before you flee to a shelter with your children. Once at the shelter, make sure that a service worker at the shelter is given a copy of (or a chance to review) your documentation. It’s greatly unfortunate that you will have to face legal needs when you’re trying to escape from a criminally abusive person but legalities is something you must be prepared to face before you make your break. The fact that you took yourself to a children’s shelter or a battered-woman’s shelter goes a long way toward establishing your innocence in allegations likely to surface later.

Women are assigned priority status when it comes to such things. If you are a man fleeing an abusive woman, understand that whatever you tell the authorities (or organizations which provide assistance) will be greeted with undue skepticism. Check the references at the end of this essay for organizations which specifically assist men. �

Section 2: Understand who or what you’re hiding from

You should consider the resources of the individual or organization which you’re hiding from as well as their degree of motivation for finding you. Always over-estimate the resolve of those seeking to find you yet keep your estimations reasonable. Greatly over-estimating your opposition can cause you to behave in predictable, patterned ways, however. It is the predictability of your actions based upon your opposition’s controlled stimulus which can get you caught.

If your opposition are police authorities, rest assured that they have decades of experience to back them up whereas to them, you’re nothing more than another faceless fugitive on the run. To them you’re no one special; it’s not usually personal (unless you’ve killed a cop in which case they will get you — and I hope you’ll have an “accident” on the way to the police station.) To you, however, being hunted down is quite personal. They know how you will feel and will use that against you.

If you’ve entered a country illegally to start a new life, (or are planning to) you must contend with immigration officials which have historically been under-staffed, poorly-managed, and staffed by incompetent (though often voraciously brutal) thugs — high school dropouts — who only want to carry a gun but couldn’t make it in the police force. Unlike police officers, immigration officials didn’t get into their line of work to help people; they got into their line of work to keep you out of the country and to track you down and throw you out if you do get in. Their desire is to subject you to their control, feeding their power trips, making themselves feel manly. Unlike police officers, they aren’t out to help society, they’re out to inflict misery upon the hapless and the down-trodden.

I mention this because you must understand who your opposition is when you go on the run and try to hide. The objective is for you to disappear and start a new, normal life somewhere else. Illegal immigrants face the exact same problems that those who wish to become anonymous in societies face. The house wife who’s been beaten into the hospital too many times faces the same problems which illegal imigrants face. The opposition, however — those detailed to finding the house wife — are quite different than those trying to find a cop killer. Know who’ll be out looking for you when you run and hide.

The resources of your opposition will dictate greatly your behavior and decisions. If you’re running from an abusive ex-husband or ex-wife, think of what their resources are and determine whether you should stay in the same State or whether you should leave the country entirely. If at all possible, plan your escape as much in advance as possible and work to limit your opposition’s resources. This mean that you clean-out bank accounts if you can and you destroy all vehicles the opposition has easy access to so that they may not be used to track you down. (And they can’t be sold to finance private investigators to look for you.) You destroy said vehicles in a safe and non-violent way, by the way; you don’t want to hurt anyone and thus strengthen the resolve of the authorities.

Total destruction of automobiles can be accomplished easily enough:

  • Add long-grain rice to the car’s radiator fluid. If you’ve been a house wife for decades, you may not know that much about cars so here’s what you look for:
    • Pop the hood of the car. There will be a lever somewhere above the feet of the driver’s side of the car or, in older models, a lever is provided under the leading edge of the hood. Some hoods will stay open on their own whereas others have a rod mounted in the engine compartment that’s used to hold the hood up. The lever might even say “Hood release.”
    • Remove the radiator filler cap if the engine is cold. (Opening the cap with the engine hot can get you badly burned. The fluid can start to boil once the pressure is relieved and spray all over you. The fluid will be quite painful resulting in first and second-degree burns. It’s not likely to be disfiguring but if you accidentally burn yourself, you can very well go ahead with your plan to escape however your mind might be focused entirely upon the pain and not upon escape. With the engine cold you don’t have to worry about getting burned.)
  • �The cap can be found easily enough. Look for a cap with a small lever on it. Some radiator caps don’t have levers, I’ll add, but they’ll be a standard size and shape. The cap will be mounted either in the center of the radiator or, usually, to the right. There will often be a notice on it saying something like “Pressure Test to 13-18 Pounds” — at least in the United States they do. The cap is removed by lifting up the small lever on the top of the cap and turning counter-clockwise. If there’s no lever, press down and turn counter-clockwise. It often only takes about a half turn before you can pull up the cap and remove it.
    • Add as much long-grain rice as possible. The insides of the radiator will greatly affect the amount of rice you can add. If it looks like you must, poor in some rice and use your fingers to move the rice around inside the radiator. Then add more. Try to add as much rice as possible since what you’re aiming for is a horribly clogged radiator and badly damaged engine. As you’re adding rice, fluid will slop out. Don’t worry about that for now.
    • Replace the cap. You’ll have to lift the small lever on the cap (if there is one) then set the cap in place, turn clockwise until it stops turning, and then release the cap’s lever, pushing it down if it doesn’t automatically go down. Close the hood.
    • Depending upon the amount of rice you added and the fluid level of the radiator before you began, you may have a pool of radiator fluid on the ground which, since it’s usually a bright green, can be seen. Someone could see that pool, pop the hood, notice spilled grains of rice, and know that they’ve been “processed.” They’re not likely to run the engine with rice in the radiator — something you want them to do so that they’ll destroy their engine by warping the head. So get a hose and wash the evidence away before your opposition can see it.
  • Add dirt and sand to the engine’s crankcase. Open the hood and find the cap which covers the oil filler tube and remove the cap. (The location of the oil cap is far too different on cars to describe where to locate it.) You may find a notice which indicates the oil filler cap. Such a notice might say something like “Use only SAE 30” or “Use only SAE 10-40.” Add as much sand and gravel as possible. This will rest in the valve cover until the engine is started. As the engine is run, some parts of it will not get oil — oil which is used for both lubrication as well as cooling. Worse still: ground-down particulates will work its way around the entire engine eventually ruining it until it just stops.
  • The traditional way to destroy a car quickly has become somewhat difficult now that most cars have locking gas caps. Still, if you have access to the car’s keys (which you might if you’re running from an abusive spouse) get yourself a funnel and add a pound of sugar to the car’s gas tank. The sugar will disperse in solution and caramelize in the guts of the engine when it’s burned with the air/fuel mixture. That’ll kill the car for sure and will do the job quickly. Note that adding too much sugar could simply clog the fuel outlet line which, while it damages the car and requires extensive repair to clear, won’t kill the car out totally — that’s your objective, remember, since you’re working to limit the resources of your opposition.

NOTE added July, 2005: Sugar in the gasoline tank does not work well and it’s something of an urban legend. The suggestion is covered in a number of classic books such as Edward Abbey’s “The Monkeywrench Gang” however actual experimentation proves that sugar added to a gas tank doesn’t do enough damage.

It has been suggested that other substances added to a gas tank might cause serious damage, such as pancake syrup and other sweateners however there is no good scientific data available anywhere that I’m aware of that provides any evidence that such substances work.

In the end, perhaps the best way to destroy a vehicle that might be used to come after you is to drape a blanket over the vehicle, dump a gallon of gasoline on it, and throw on a burning object from a relatively safe distance.

Alternatively experimentation with putting clothes soaked in gasoline in a pile under vehicles and then setting the clothes on fire has met with success in the United States so that’s an option.

But take care: Gasoline doesn’t burn; the fumes mixed with oxygen in the air is what burns. After gasoline soaked cloth is set in a location, fumes will build and if yo strike a match anywhere within the volume of asperated fuel, it will go BANG! And you don’t want to be inside that volume when it ignites.

Also take care: Arson should be a last resort because it’s considered to be a violent and dangerous crime. Ask yourself wether your life is in danger or whether your child’s life is in danger and whether burning the vehicle is what’s absolutely required to safeguard your life or the life of your children. If the answer is No, just don’t do it.

Another important aspect of running from a spouse or boy/girlfriend: If they have firearms, think about getting them. If you are comfortable handling any firearms your opposition might have which you feel could be used against you, acquire them and — if they’re small hand guns — deposit them in a postal box as soon as you can. The postal box on the end of any business district street is fine and it doesn’t matter that it’s close to your house or apartment that you’re fleeing.

Assuming you’re a housewife with little to no experience with guns:

  • Remove the firearm from its drawer, night stand, or under the bed or the closet making sure that you keep your hands and fingers away from the trigger. Nearly all firearms will not discharge if you keep your fingers away from the trigger. All firearms require the weapon to be either cocked before it will discharge else one must use a fairly heavy pull on the trigger to both cock and fire the weapon. If a weapon has been cocked, it could be that even the slightest pressure — some three pounds or less — could discharge the weapon. For this reason, keep your fingers away from the trigger!
  • Always be fully aware of where the barrel of the firearm is pointing. Keep it pointed in a direction which will not result in injury of yourself or anyone else in the event the gun discharges. Ground-floor apartment dwellers should point the firearm down. Other-floor apartment dwellers should point the firearm at the television, book-shelves, radiator, heater, or air conditioner — anything heavy which would stop the bullet if the firearm discharges. Most apartment complexes’ walls and most residential houses’ walls are too thin to stop most of the popular projectiles.
  • If you know what to do, clear the weapon. If you don’t know what to do or are uncomfortable clearing the weapon, don’t try it.

In revolvers, there is a round cylinder which you can see has a number of tubes inside. You should also be able to see some of the bullets in the cylinder if it is loaded. On revolvers, one must usually pull a long metal pin resting under the length of the barrel before the round cylinder will swing out to the left. In some revolvers, after pulling the pin out until it stops, one must also pull back the hammer before the cylinder will swing out. With an eye toward where the barrel is pointing at all time, clear the weapon by swinging the weapon’s barrel up. The bullets should slide down toward the floor and into your hand. If not, having the cylinder swung open makes the weapon safe enough to transport to a postal box.

In semi-automatics, there is ammunition stored in the handle of the gun inside of a removable clip. There is usually a lever at the base of the handle which, when pressed, releases the clip. The clip may not slide out on its own in which case you must press the lever and pull the clip out using both hands. On some semi-automatics, there is no lever but there is a screw which one must turn.

Even after removing the clip from a semi-automatic or swinging the cylinder out a revolver, the weapon should not be considered safe. Check to see if there is a round chambered in the barrel. In a revolver, with the cylinder swung out, it will be easy to see if the barrel has a bullet chambered. In a semi-automatic, the way to check to make sure there’s no round in the chamber is — after the clip is removed — to pull back the cocking mechanism to eject any chambered round. If there is, a bullet will be ejected to your right and behind you a few feet so don’t be surprised when it does.

After clearing the weapon, you should have a gun that either has the cylinder swung open or the cocking mechanism locked open. Most semi-automatics will lock open when the last round is emptied from the gun yet many will not lock open.

  • When you can, deposit the safely-emptied firearm in a postal box. If you couldn’t clear the weapon, go ahead and deposit the firearm in a postal box anyway.

Leaving the firearm in a visibly-safe state will make it easier on the postal employee who runs into the firearm when he or she empties the postal box you drop it into. I suggest routing any firearms which might be used against you to the postal service because postal employees have standing orders not to touch what may be evidence and to contact the police. (The letters and boxes taken from the postal box will also be subjected to several day’s — if not weeks — delays as they are checked and the origination and destination addresses checked. Because of that, you shouldn’t deposit any letters you might feel to write in the same box as they will be delayed.)

The police will keep any firearm you deposit into a postal box for a long, long time, perhaps even destroying it even though it’s not been used in a crime. The fact that you are missing will mean that the firearm will not be returned to your abusive spouse or boy/girlfriend to be used against you. More: In many States the right to purchase another firearm will be either revoked or denied until the disposition of your whereabouts is ascertained. Dropping your opposition’s firearms into a postal box will effectively transfer ownership to the police and de-claw your opposition greatly.

Private detective agencies don’t usually operate for free. If your opposition has no financial resources to draw upon, they are limited to a great extent. If you’re a criminal, they’ll still use the police agencies of the country to track you down, of course, at which point it’s simply a matter of time before they find you. If you’re not on the run for a criminal act, police authorities will have no reason to try to find you and, lacking private detective services, your opposition will be working alone.

If you’re running from the IRS, know that your opposition has unlimited resources and, depending upon how much money you owe, a broad spectrum of motivation for finding you. If you’re running from the criminal law, you should know that you will eventually get caught regardless of what measures you take to hide yourself. It’s only a question of time before they find you.

In summary, stay motivated and work to reduce both the motivation and the financial avenues of your opposition. Know who your opposition is and what they’ll likely employ to find you. Work to reduce the effectiveness of what your opposition is likely to do to find you. If your opposition has weapons which could be used against you, give them to the police by using the post office. �

Section 3: Throw away yourself and build a new you

Before you go to ground, destroy as much of the old you as possible. You want to go beyond making yourself disappear: You want to make it seem as if you never existed. This means that you should do as much of the following as possible before and after you disappear:

  • Destroy all photographs you have access to before you disappear. This includes family volumes of photographs that family members have. Your family members may or may not be supportive and hand over (to your opposition) all of their photographs of you depending upon your situation. Your family could be forced to support your opposition through threat of law or through physical violence. If you destroy all photographs of you, they can’t be shown around gas stations and quick food stops.

If at all possible, your opposition should be reduced to passing out artist renditions of you. Even if you have police mug shots on file or have a drivers license photograph on file, it’s still a good idea to limit the availability of photographs. Make the opposition use old photographs rather than up-to-date photographs if you can.

  • Discard all your worldly possessions except cash. Most importantly destroy and discard all of your credit cards! The instant you use a credit card or an ATM bank card while on the run is the instant the authorities or private investigators know where you are. Before you run you should empty all bank accounts anyway. Gas debit cards can also be used to find you. Telephone calling cards can be used to find you. In fact, any magnetic card with your name or the name of someone you know can and will be used to find your general area. Destroy them all. If the FBI, DEA, BATF, CIA, or any number of other agencies are involved in searching for you, they can pinpoint your location within minutes of you using a magnetic card.

Don’t even think about hanging onto a credit card or other type of magnetic card for an emergency. You might think about maxing-out your cards then converting what you purchase to quick cash… but don’t take cards with you! What you don’t have can’t tempt you to give your location away. When you’re cold and hungry you will be tempted to use any cards you keep so destroy them before that happens.

  • Purchase clothes you normally wouldn’t consider wearing and put them on in a place where you won’t be observed. Cut your old clothes into pieces and flush them down the toilet — you don’t want your old clothes to be found. (O. J. Simpson probably discarded the shoes and clothes he wore when he probably murdered two people by depositing them into an airport trash can. Don’t rely on blind luck to save you like he probably did: Destroy your old clothes and flush them!)
  • Abandon your car. Don’t bother driving your car into a lake or an ocean. They can be seen from helicopters or, at minimum, fresh tracks left in the mud surrounding lakes can be spotted from the air easier than by people from the ground. Since you’re giving up an asset, make giving it up work for you.

Abandoning your car in a place where you feel confident it will be stripped and sold by thieves is a good idea yet you’re left with having to walk out of a probably dangerous neighborhood.

Leave the pink slip of the car in the glove box to make it easier for thieves to chop and sell your abandoned car. Leave a door unlocked so they don’t have to break a window. You want the car to be taken in mass rather than picked apart on the street where a cop will spot it so it’s best that you leave the key in the ignition while you’re at it. Before you walk away from your car, leave the engine running, in fact, so that a thief will feel more comfortable stealing it. You could make it look like you’re just running into a store to buy something quickly.

  • Don’t use a taxi service any time you’re fleeing. Taxi drivers and their dispatcher will take records of everyone picked up and dropped off and often taxi drivers will be able to recall your description to match you to your destination. If you look like you’re running from something, their memory of you will be even sharper.
  • Purchase another car. In America one can slap down $300.00 and buy a pile of junk with no questions asked and no identification needed. If the seller has the pink slip and a key, you buy it if it’s cheap and doesn’t have anything a cop might consider stopping you for a safety violation.

Make sure that the back license plate has a current registration and that the exhaust doesn’t visibly smoke. Make sure the turn indicators are working and that you have headlights. Make sure the windshield has no cracks. Broken or missing break lights are often used as an excuse by police officers to pull over suspicious cars so make sure that the break lights are working.

Don’t do something stupid and buy a stolen car! If there’s no pink slip and no ignition key, don’t buy it. Match the VID number on the pink slip to the VID number on the metal plate usually mounted on the dash board under the windshield wipers. Match the license plate number. If one or both don’t match, don’t buy the car: the license plate could be stolen or the car could be stolen or both.

Don’t borrow a friend’s car. Don’t even think about borrowing a family member’s car. There are cameras situated along America’s highways and, while I don’t know their resolving capabilities, I think it’s likely that the make and model of cars streaming past them can be made. Even if they can’t resolve your car, a borrowed car is a known avenue of your escape so avoid it.

You might consider a street motorcycle, in fact, since they’re as mobile as one can get without using a horse. Motorcycles, however, draw more police attention to them if they look chopped and fast. Your personal appearance on a motorcycle can help deduct from any suspicion that is a normal part of riding a motorcycle in America. A suit and tie might be a good idea: “Mr. Business Man” or “Ms. Business Woman” clothes and appearance might help.

  • Don’t fill up your newly-acquired car with any of your personal belongings. If you get stopped by a cop or a cop drives by you, you don’t want it to look like you’re packed up to the ceiling with all your worldly possessions. You need to discard everything you own and don’t let it show that you’re doing anything other than commuting to or from work. Even if the cop doesn’t stop you, if word gets around that you’ve gone missing, the cop is more likely to remember a stuffed car than all the countless cars simply commuting. They’ll match your profile against your description and may recall the general — if not the exact — type of car you may be driving. If you want to escape notice of the cops, you need to blend in.

Cops work off of profiles: They are trained to spot the unusual as well as how to spot individuals fitting a variety of profiles. Someone on the run fits several profiles. You want to “fall out of the net” and slip through the typical police profiles.

A cup of coffee on the dashboard in front of a guy or gal wearing work clothes arouses no suspicions. You’re on your way to work, not running from someone.

Don’t studiously avoid catching a cop’s eye, by the way. Lean back in your seat, left arm on the window sill, right hand on the steering wheel at the 6:00 O’Clock position. Take a sip of your coffee, water, or Diet Coke every now and then, and try to act like you’re a mindless commuter getting from point A to point B with the rest of the lemmings.

You’re not frightened that you’ll get stopped. You’re not anxious of what will happen when your wife or boyfriend discovers you’ve left. You’ll need to adopt a carefree attitude and outward composure. If you’re an illegal alien, you should be thinking about joining the work force and becoming a productive member of your new society, not thinking about the friends and family you might have left behind. Cops, immigration, and everyday people can smell your anxiety and fear so you’ll want to focus on the positive aspects of why you’re on the run.

  • Don’t run from the cops in a car or motorcycle! If you’re in a car or on a motorcycle, pull over, stop, turn the engine off, and show your hands. If you like, get out and run. (More on bailing out of cars and running later.) The worse thing you can do is try to run with your car. Not only will you kill someone, the police will be very motivated to do what it takes to stop you before you do kill someone. In America that includes pulling along side you and popping you with Mr. Shotgun. If you’re driving 120 through the streets of Los Angeles, you become a fatal threat and will be handled with fatal force. Don’t think that you and your car can get away! You can’t. These days nobody can. Believe it. You can’t outrun radio or helicopters and the police aren’t just going to go away. Spike strips will puncture your tires and slow you down even more. (Eventually there will be devices deployed which will destroy an engine’s ignition system, operated through a remote-control radio link.) These days nobody gets away and you are a dangerous fool to try it in America. Believe it.
  • Don’t tell anyone where you’re planning to go or what you’re planning to do. For as long as possible, don’t ask friends for help or shelter — most of all never ask family members! Don’t telephone anyone to say “good bye.” Don’t have any contact with friends or family! Police authorities will monitor their residential lines and private investigators can easily tap loop-start residential lines with not much more than two pieces of equipment costing all of $200.00 each.
  • Leave town. Don’t go to any place you’ve talked about or stated a desire to visit. Don’t run to any place predictable. Don’t hide in a city or town you’ve ever been to or contains known family members. Don’t do something obviously stupid like running to Las Vegas or Hollywood. If you’re taking children out of an abusive family, leave town and go immediately to a shelter in another State — preferably a State which has laws which help to protect battered men or women from their ex-spouses or live-ins. (References provided toward the end of this essay.)
  • Alter your buying habits. When you throw your old self away, you need to discard as many predictable patterns as possible. One of the most common mistakes when hiding is maintaining old habits. If you’re a smoker, stop. If you don’t smoke, start. If you enjoy hot and spicy foods, stop purchasing those items and change to mild foods. If you frequent bars, stop. This may seem an unusual step but you’re working toward disappearing, right? Patterns are predictable. Break them.

There is the possibility that in the future people may be identifiable by their purchasing habits. Granted the point-of-sale data collected by computers would need to be immense yet eventually pattern-recognition software may some day be able to provide authorities with perhaps 100 of the best possible “hits” on people matching your known buying habits. When — if ever — that becomes a reality, you can be sure you won’t know about it until it’s shown on cable television. By that time the technology will have been in use for years and you may end up on a list of possible matching a purchase profile.

  • It’s best to avoid going to McDonnald’s or other fast food places if you have a habit of doing so. When spotted in a city the authorities will divide and eliminate sections of the city. If you like certain fast food places and they know this, they will keep an eye out for you in those areas. These places also have been installing cameras which watch over the counter and the eating areas — cameras you can’t see and cameras you can see. This is also true of many drive-through areas as well though the camera angle is usually covered up by a one-way concave mirrored surface.

Section 4: Keep from depositing traces of yourself

Every place you go, you inadvertently leave pieces of yourself. Every article of clothing, every door knob, every carpet, every telephone, every toilet seat you use will contain pieces of you. Your skin is flaking off all the time. You need to decide whether there is a risk of the authorities or private investigators looking for you tracking you through your blood type or DNA (which can be worked-up by using pieces of your hair.) After you weigh the risks, take the precautions you deem are needed.

  • Wear a hat indoors. Wearing a hat in a hotel room won’t remove the probability of you leaving hair follicles in the room yet it will reduce the number of such particles making finding evidence difficult. Cutting your hair until it’s real short will also help. And that’s what you want to do: Limit the amount of physical evidence which can be used to track you.
  • Use “toilet seat protectors” — so-called “Ass Gaskets” — where they are provided to reduce the possibility of leaving skin, sweat, or other body fluids on the seat. These substances can be swabbed into glass vials and be used to identify you. Paper seat covers will either eliminate this problem else reduce it greatly.
  • NEVER lick an envelope or a stamp for obvious reasons! If it is known you’re in a particular city your general location can be inferred by the physical location of your correspondence in a stack collected by the postal authority. You shouldn’t mail anyone anything unless it’s done so anonymously (wear gloves when handling paper) yet if you feel the need, remember that if you lick something and it leaves your control, you may as well take out an advertisement in the newspapers broadcasting your general location.
  • Don’t leave blood, semen, or menstrual discharge behind you as you run. If you happen to spill your blood on something, there’s not a damn thing you can do to get it cleaned-up so you may as well not expend the effort to try. Even if you were to clean it up entirely and then wash everything down with gasoline, there are substances which can spot minute traces of blood and technologies which can type extremely minute traces. Even burning the building down to the ground is pointless: Spill your blood and you’ve left a clue you can’t retract at any cost. Don’t even try as you make it worse by spending time trying.
  • Wipe every surface in your hotel before you leave. For good measure, wipe every surface in any bathroom you may use along the road. Keep in mind that you need to use soap and water when you wipe away your fingerprints and skin tissue otherwise you’ll only leave a bunch of smudges which can be reconstructed using contemporary computer imaging technologies.

Toss your wiping materials down the toilet. (If you’re on an airplane, don’t toss anything down the toilet as it goes to a holding tank which can be raked for evidence later. Carry-out your wiping papers with you inside your shirt under an armpit and flush them in a normal toilet when you can. (Note: Visible bulges under your shirt will be considered by flight attending employees to be indicating the real possibility that you’re smuggling drugs. If you must hide a lot of wipe materials, you should distribute them among your body to eliminate bulges, otherwise you may be escorted to a little white room and made to strip. When they find you’re hiding damp paper towels, you’ll have some explaining to do.)

Be sure to wipe everything including things you didn’t touch! Scientifically-controlled testing shows that people touch objects without realizing it or being able to recall having touched them. The only way to be absolutely certain you remove finger prints from everything you touch is to clean everything within reach.

By the way: Rubbing alcohol is pretty good at getting up the natural oils which comprise the majority of your fingerprints so perhaps before you run you should acquire a bottle and keep it with you.

Before you leave your hotel room, hang the “please make-up this room as soon as possible” sign on the door handle, taking care not to leave your prints on the sign. You want the room vacuumed, cleaned, and touched by hotel employees as soon as possible.

Don’t wear gloves where you can be seen yet do wear gloves when you won’t be seen.

  • Don’t eat in restaurants. Your drinking glasses and eating utensils will contain pieces of you. Fast-food places without cameras are okay provided you be sure to take the food with you and can flush paper down a toilet. If you eat at a fast-food place and discard of your trash in the trash bin, you’re leaving a trail behind you. (It’s a difficult trail to follow, granted, yet still a trail.)

Don’t forget that most fast-food places and mini-markets these days will videotape you. Even the smallest stores usually run continual videotape of everyone who enters, leaves, and stands in the check-out line.

Don’t look for the cameras; notice where they are not and then focus on that spot. Turning your head up to look at a camera changes the shadow and contrast attributes of the video shots of you drastically so, as you enter a shop, keep you face down and look at spots where you off-handedly know cameras are not mounted. (In fact, practice becoming aware of where visible cameras are. Lately cameras are becoming invisible so eventually you’ll never know where they are. You can learn where cameras are usually located, however. Learning the location of cameras you can see will tell you a lot about the possible locations of cameras you won’t see.)

Contemporary computer imaging software can take multiple video shots of you from different camera angles and combine them in extraordinary ways. Poor quality video shots of differing contrasts, brightness, and angles can be processed on a computer to yield good quality photographs of you. Your job is to limit the number and attributes of raw video shots taken of you. This is a damn difficult thing to do, of course. �

Section 5: Keeping yourself hidden

Running is the easiest part. Hiding is a bit harder. Staying hidden is the difficult part. The difficulties are determined by the resolve and resources of those hunting you. If the government wants to find you, they will unless you are willing to sacrifice everything.

  • If you run to the hills, satellites can see you and identify the type and color of the automobile you’re driving. If you’ve hidden yourself in a cabin, your thermal signature will be seen from satellites. Even if you drive to a road and abandon your vehicle and walk to a cabin 30 miles away, a body heat source in a cabin in the desert or in the woods with no corresponding automobile heat source can signal where you are. It’s suspicious.

Satellites can bounce LASER light off of your windows and, by measuring the minute distance differences between a vibrating window and the satellite, reconstruct your speech — from orbit! I don’t know how much this process costs yet it was demonstrated for PBS some years ago so it may not be all that expensive. The quality of the audio is poor but it can be understood.

Incidentally: Some of the higher technology law enforcement agencies (FBI, CIA, lately BATF) employ “adaptive mirrors” for some of their optical law enforcement efforts. A signal is bounced off of an object, and the signal contains marking information and timing information. The return bounce tells the computer system a great deal of information about the atmospheric conditions, temperatures of the air and surfaces, and a host of other attributes about the environment (such as humidity.)

The computer system evaluates conditions and then adapts mirrored surfaces to remove distortion, providing amazingly clean audio surveillance from orbit upon unsuspecting suspects. As you can imagine, it’s expensive and law enforcement doesn’t apply the technology to every fugitive. It’s used against law breakers only in extreme cases. The technology is usually applied in intelligence gathering missions for NATO-aligned countries.

If a satellite must be re-missioned or maneuvered, obviously the cost goes up — but then if they do that, they’ve launched a man hunt against you which you probably won’t escape anyway. Cloud cover won’t help. Smog won’t help. Tree coverage will help a little but don’t rely on it.

  • The eyes track motion. If there are helicopters looking for you, it is always best to hide in a bush or up in a tree rather than running it out on foot. Your body heat will probably give you away any way. If you have a helicopter looking for you, bury yourself in mud and leaves and you stand a chance of not being detected by your body heat. A river, lake, or stream can mask your body heat, of course, yet those would be obvious places to look for you.

I might add that helicopter pilots are trained to follow the driver of automobiles when they bail out and leave any other occupants of the car that bail out to the ground officers. If you’re driving a car and bail out (which is the safe, smart move rather than trying to make a run for it with the car) with a helicopter watching over you, climb over to the rear right hand seat and bail out from there, never from the driver’s seat. If they don’t know you’re alone, they may mistakenly wait for the driver. It might even help to kick open the driver’s door before climbing out the back door. If you do that, though, you could be identified as the driver by your clothes so consider the problem.

If you’re walking or running through hills or wooded areas, the eyes of your opposition will track your motion. If you’re motionless, picking you out of the visual clutter will be difficult. Even dogs have trouble picking up a stationary object.

  • Speaking of dogs, I’ve yet to see a human capable of outrunning a healthy dog. You can confuse them by running around objects a few times and — always traditional — running downstream a swiftly moving stream of water.

Running upstream should be avoided. Your scent will be carried downstream and you wish to go with it otherwise you leave a long tail behind you.

Dogs will go for your feet or hands when you’re running then for your hands when you’re down. They’re trained not to go for the throat (though I’ve heard that some police trained dogs will if given specific instructions to.) Since they are trained not to bark until they are close to you, you will probably not hear the dog getting closer.

Dogs usually work with one officer. Putting more than one dog on an individual’s trail is very rarely done. The officer usually holds onto the dog’s leash yet that slows the dog down considerably. Dogs that have had their voices removed are rarely released for long-distance track downs.

If a police dog confronts you with an officer, give up. If the police dog has been sent on ahead, kill the dog. You should sacrifice a bit of flesh to do this effectively: Offer your “dumb” hand to the dog and let it take it. (First wrap your arm in a shirt if you can.) Use the knife in your “smart” hand and try to drive it through the dog’s braincase.

This will work provided the dog hasn’t seen your knife. They know what they look like and what they’re used for. Anything in your hand, in fact, even if it’s a jacket or a pair of socks will be treated with much suspicion by the dog and the dog will be trained to go after the hand with the object in it.

Dogs are trained to expect their targets to scream and yell such amusing phrases as “Argh! Get him off me! Get him off me!” That makes the dog immune to the emotional pleas of its victims. They’re trained to ignore all commands except those of its master and in some cases they are trained to understand commands given in different languages.

Trying to get both hands around the dog’s neck is probably a mistake since doing so will be next to impossible. If you can get your hands around the neck and you don’t have a knife, lift the dog off the ground and shake it until its neck snaps. You can try to squeeze the dog’s windpipe closed yet that takes strength and time. It’s best to break the neck. You’ve been on the run and will probably lack the strength needed to strangle the dog.

There was a discussion several years ago about police dogs’ bodies being used to offer clues as to the general location of the criminal they had been tracking. If possible, hike the dog’s body along with you and dispose of it later. If you use a knife, leave it in the dog as the blade can and will be used to identify you if you’re caught with it.

  • When running from ground forces, it is expected that you’ll:
    • They will expect you to: Run directly away from the opposition. You’ll want to put as much distance between yourself and your opposition as possible. That may be a bad decision since escape could be to your left or your right. You don’t want to be driven into a trap by running directly away from the ground forces. If they can see you, running directly away could be leading you into a trap — they have radios and you probably don’t. They have helicopters. If they can’t see you, take an unexpected tangent to their pursuit. It won’t put as much distance between you at first but if they walk past you at a distance, you win for a while.
    • They will expect you to: Seek the high ground. There is the idea that if one puts a mountain between you and your pursers, you’re home free. From the top of a mountain or high hills you can better see possible avenues of escape. Your opposition will expect you to climb. Ravines and passes are going to be easier, allowing you to move faster though perhaps not as far away from the opposition as you would like. Going around a mountain could take more time than going over — you decide how you want to do it. If you go over the top, you stand a chance of being seen and you also have more of a helicopter treat.
    • They will expect you to: Go to ground (or “hole up.”) If you’re hurt or just tired, hungry, and desperate, you will probably want to go to ground. It is expected that as your pursers get closer to you, you’ll find a hole to climb into, a tree to climb, or something equally disastrous. In the cities, the criminals are often found under a bush, in a tree, under a car, in someone’s shed on a roof. At some point it’s expected that you’ll stop running and try to hide. With today’s technology, that’s a bad idea. Keep going until you’re unable to. You can catch up on your sleep when they catch you or when they put a few rounds into your back.
    • They will expect you to: Take the easiest route to escape capture. You may want to do things which are totally unexpected by doing things the hard way. If you’re tramping through the forest along a trail walking at high speed, making good time toward freedom, you may want to toss that away, break from the trail, climb the ridge if there is one, and crash through the bush for ten miles. They’ll expect you to walk in the shade if it’s a hot day and along water ways if it’s a hot day. Decide whether taking the easy way and being predictable is acceptable.
    • They will expect you to: Doubled back on yourself. If you can work your way around a hill free from the eyes of your opposition, and double back on yourself, you have increased the chances of escape. Your opposition will be looking for signs that you’ve double backed on yourself. You’re leaving a scent trail for every dog in the area to follow so that should be of some consideration when you double back. You need to try to create a break in your trail at the point you change direction. This could mean walking backwards a bit, climbing a tree, working your way through the branches to other trees, climbing down, and then working your way back the way you came. Even if you don’t suspect that you’re being trailed, it is probably a good idea to break your trail from time to time if you can. You could start being followed hours later, after all.
    • They will expect you to: Work your way to your right. You might be tempted not to keep an eye on landmarks and set yourself goals to acquire in the distance. If you’re worried about and focused upon getting away, your natural behavior will be to circle to your right if you’re right handed, to the left if you’re left handed. If it’s at night, pick out the North Star and set your course by it rather than rely upon your internal direction sense to travel.

Section 6: People and Organizations Which Can Assist You

It’s getting harder and harder to hide. There used to be a loose defacto “underground” of “freedom loving” people — hippies, if you will — who would provide aid, shelter, and comfort to those on the run from Authority (or The Establishment, The Man, The Fuzz, The P. I. G.)

These days, however, in our increasingly paranoid and dangerous society, offering assistance to strangers is a bad idea: It gets people killed. One must rely upon professional organizations which assist people who need to hide from abusive people. Professional organizations, however, will want you to have a virtuous reason for running and hiding and will want to help you by reporting you to the authorities if they feel they should. None that I know of assist you if you’re running from a law enforcement agency.�

The hippies have given way to another class of citizen. These are the so-called “skin heads,” punk rockers, and New Age nuts. While many are social misfits, most interact with “regular society” in their off-hours and rock-out at night or on the week ends.

The anti-establishment and socially disassociated populace has always existed and has always been an asset to those on the run. Your job is to find them if you need them. Be honest with such people since they know the score and will shine you on if you’re a lying jerk.

  • Motorcycle Hangouts.

Buy people drinks, talk politics, express your viewpoints, and get to know the people in motorcycle hangouts.

    • Express an honest interest in learning how to ride safely. Find out what it’s like to drop everything and ride to feel free.
    • Eventually, let a few you think you can trust know that you’re looking for a place to hang out “out of the way” for a couple of days. Don’t press the issue and don’t ask outright for shelter. Ask around about where a good spot to sleep is out in the hills where the cops won’t find you. Someone may offer you a tent in his backyard.
    • Ask where a good place is to find something to eat or get day labor. Someone may offer you a fiver or yard work.

Honestly make friends with some of the people. Your best bet is not to lead people on and take advantage of them but to actually befriend people who can help you hide and then — hopefully — start a new life with a new identity.

Motorcycle riders have reputations they must defend and domination games they must play. If you’re on the run or need a place to hide, understand that you are Beta Male among Alpha Males. Understand that these are usually good people worthy of your friendship who can and will help you. Understand that you must fit into their society of Alpha and Beta males and accept their domination games. Many gangs are only minor criminals with codes of honor and ethics, existing only to drink, fuck, and ride with their buddies — bikers who have regular jobs during the week and hang out and ride when they can. Not all motorcycle gangs are druggie murderers and thieves. These days in America, bikers like that are few in number.

  • Punk Rock or New Age dance studios.

This group of people tend to be younger than the motorcycle crowd. Your best bet for assistance will be among the younger kids but, being young, they’ll probably be living with their parents and have no resources to help you with. They probably know where you can sleep safely, however, and will know who might have jobs available.

With punkers it will be okay to let it be known outright that you’re looking to find a place to hide from the cops for awhile. The punkers with the proper punk attitude will “know someone who might know someone” who can help you find a place to cool off for awhile — or maybe find a meal or two.

  • Gay bars.

Gay bars are a good place to go if you’re needing a meal or a safe place to spend a couple of nights. Of course it helps if you’re good-looking yet most people at gay and straight bars are looking for companionship first and hoping for sex second. It doesn’t matter if you’re gay or straight: What people want is companionship and interesting people to talk with first and foremost. If you’re interesting or have interesting stories to tell, finding someone in a gay bar can be mutually beneficial to the both of you.

When it comes down to it, it doesn’t pay to be shy… let someone take you home with them. Get a bath, a meal, and a place to sleep for awhile. Don’t over stay your welcome, however. Offer to leave from time to time and when asked to do so, do so. Return to the same bar later and make yourself known.

  • Homeless shelters, soup kitchens, and churches. Most moderate or large cities will have shelters and soup kitchens operated by either the State government or religious organizations. Questions are usually never asked though such places usually like to make sure you’re not holding dope or weapons before they’ll let you stay. If possible, try to see if there’s any work in the kitchen or dorms you could do to repay their kindness. Such people who exhibit a willingness to work will be afforded assistance finding a paying job — which is something you’ll want to do since you’re trying to build a new life.

Section 7: Employment: Food, Shelter While on the Run, While Underground

The idea is to run and hide only as long as you have to and then start rebuilding your life under a new identity. Homeless shelters, job placement services, and day labor can give you hope and help while you’re struggling to make your new life. You’re using a computer so I assume that you have food and shelter now and possibly employment. Save up your money before you run and you’ll give yourself a chance.

If you’re in a city or town, you stand a better chance of feeding yourself and keeping yourself from freezing to death. There are often shelters run by Christian, Muslim, or Jewish organizations which will feed you and put you up. It may be dangerous to do so simply because such places are usually — nearly always — in dangerous neighborhoods. If you’re wearing the wrong color face, you have to compare the possibility of violence and abuse against hunger. If you look like you’re on the run, you could be victimized in the city. Those who would victimize you know you won’t go to the cops. You’re on your own in an area where punks band together out of boredom.

Finding work is your best bet. You’re using a computer right now so it is assumed that you have a job (or are married without a paying job) and as such have some marketable skills. Even without marketable skills, you can find employment if you’re willing to work hard.

Suppose you’re a wife looking to leave an abusive husband. Suppose you’re a teen-ager looking to leave an abusive mother or father. How would you feed and house yourself when you run and hide? If you’re young, you can expect to be raped (boy or girl) drugged, and horribly abused when living on American streets so you must consider that fact and go for a children’s shelter instead.

Hopefully you’ve managed to save aside some cash but that won’t last long. There are jobs that you can do:

  • Day Labor: Normally day labor is back-breaking, hot and sweaty work and is given to men. Women can get day labor cleaning — houses, hotels, dishes… it’s hard work but it is out there. You may be paid cash for day labor and no one will ask you questions. If you have a skill (such as sewing, tree trimming, or painting) your pay will be higher than if you’re just moving dirt or laying down bricks.

Without other expenses, day labor should be enough to feed yourself and maybe save some cash aside against the day you find a serious job and rent an apartment with friends.

By the way: Most day labor consists of men who speak Spanish with only a few words of English (at least this is the case in the United States.) Most will be Mexican workers with families to support. Nearly all will be extremely hard working individuals who know that when the day is over and they get their pay, tomorrow the work bosses will be out picking up day laborers again and they’ll pick faces they recognize as hard workers. Competition for work is heavy so joining a group of day laborers could be difficult. No one asks questions, any way, which you would find embarrassing.

If you attempt to perform day labor by hanging out with other day labor crew, if you’re wearing a white face you stand a better chance of being looked over carefully by police and private individuals than if you’re wearing a brown face.

  • Most cities will have job placement services run by governmental workers. They’ll want a home address and identification so be ready with a real residential address even though it may not be your real one (because you may not have one.) When asked for identification, state that you’ve been on the street “for a long, long time” and, if they would help, you would like to get a State identification card and a Social Security number and “start living like a normal human being.” Since you might want to be difficult to contact, you should be the one to check with governmental job placement services every day to see if they have something for you. The address of local shelters will often work for contact addresses for you.

It is a crime to defraud your State or Federal government so you must be clear on this: Your intention is to build yourself a better life. A Social Security card issued to you under a false identity MUST be considered by you to be absolutely honest and real. That Social Security number is issued to someone you have wholly become. You will pay taxes to that account and you will file income reports with that account number. That’s you now, not a fake. Because you’re paying your taxes and working at an honest living, if your real identity is found out, people will maybe be reasonable about the fact that you’ve been working hard to be a productive, tax-paying member of society. (Of course if you’re a wanted criminal, trying to “fly right” by paying your fair share of the tax burden won’t cut you much slack in front of a judge.)

NOTE: Food coupons could be issued to you if you qualify though you may need a valid mailing address. Check with your local social services office to find out whether this could help you.

  • If you’re clean and neat, you could get minimum wage at a fast-food place and be allotted a lower price for your meals. Cut your hair short — but not too short, regardless of whether you’re a man or a woman. Remove facial hair if you’ve got it. Look neat and clean. Consider shaving your arms if you’re a man — seriously. Women usually do in the United States and it’s perfectly acceptable for men to do likewise. Lacking skills, you must work to make yourself look more acceptable, better capable of filling a fast-food job than the rest standing behind you also wanting that job.

This might not be a good job for you since you’ll be working with the public and you may not want your face to be seen so much. (And don’t forget that nearly all fast-food places have cameras these days watching everything that goes on.)

  • Restaurants, like fast-food places, are another place to check out. Even though kitchens have automatic dish washers these days (there are regulations about water temperature) someone still must load the washers, sort the dishes, and move them about. Someone also has to keep the floors clean. Working a restaurants is hard work and low-pay but, like fast-food places, one’s meals will be discounted in cost or provided by the establishment as part of one’s wages. These places are often trade-unionized so you might have trouble with being forced to join the union. If at all possible, don’t. (Some States have a “Right To Work” law which makes enforced payment to union organizations (that is to say, to organized crime) illegal. Check to see if the State you’re working in has a “Right To Work” law.) Every dollar you don’t have to pay out of pocket translates to food and freedom. Unions are a fraud and don’t provide anything you can use.
  • If you can type, data entry is a job that’s very much in demand. It’s long hours and low pay but it’ll keep you from starving to death. Data entry (and card keypunch operating) often require taking numbers and text off of printed forms and, for nine or ten hours a day, typing them into a computer. That work often gets printed to paper and then audited line-by-line against the form data to make sure there were no mistakes. This is mentally challenging work better suited for women than for men, I will add, and employers know this. They usually hire women for data entry and card keypunch.
  • Telephone solicitation. You don’t need too many skills to dial a telephone number and read from a script when your “victim” answers. The script that you would work off of will lead toward getting information from the person you reach. The information is usually typed into a database. The required abilities here are wearing a headset, working a desktop telephone display set, and keying in information into a form on a screen as you read from a script and get information. These places can be either boiler-plate sweat shops or nicely air-conditioned buildings, either selling crap nobody needs else selling goods and services some will find useful. Your pay will be determined by either the number of hours you put in or the number of calls you make or the number of subscriptions (or units of merchandise) you sell.
  • You could get a job in a warehouse or distribution center. Men usually can find work in either a warehouse or a distribution center yet women stand a better chance of getting work in a distribution center. The reason is because in a distribution center, clothes, food, books, video tapes, shoes et al. are shipped by the manufacturer to the distribution center which sorts them for shipment to the stores. This type of work is usually given to women.

The sorting and counting of shirts and socks, moving items from bins to bins according to written orders, starts out being an unskilled job. As an employee of a distribution center (or a warehouse) has been with the company for some time, they are given more responsibility which often require working with computers and using the telephone to correct problems with customers and suppliers. Eventually warehouse management skills are acquired and such skills are in demand. Learning to work with customers to solve problems with filling orders and billing is a very good skill to cultivate.

  • I don’t know anything about dock working and I suspect that dock workers are trade unionized. If you lack marketable skills, you might check into dock work.
  • I also don’t know anything about clothing manufacturing factories. If you can sew or operate a sewing machine, cut from patterns, and work looms, you might consider this. I hear that the pay is often less than minimum wage and that illegal labor is often employed. Raids are not infrequent, either.
  • Farm work, picking nuts, oranges, vegetables, grapes and such can be found in parts of Centeral and Northern California however once again there is a glut of available illegal Mexican labor out there that you would be competing with.

No job, little to no money, and you’re hungry?

There is often food stored in people’s garages in rural areas where the population density is lower than the major cities and there’s few homeless people on the streets. Freezers containing food are common. Gardens containing vegetables in the back yard is common. Theft should be considered a last resort however since the object is to rebuild a new, normal life, not a criminal one. It should be a last resort because there are other ways to get food.

If you’re out in the desert or the woods, either running or holed up somewhere, you should face up to the fact that you’re going to lose weight. The idea that with a rifle and a box of ammunition and a book of matches you can survive for a long period of time is wishful thinking. There are a lot of “survivalists” in the United States who, like their self-professed “militia” intellectual colleagues honestly believe they could survive in the woods if they had to.

That’s nonsense. There was a time when it was possible but those days are long over. Biodiversity in the major Westernized societies has been decimated, often with pollution and introduced pests. Disease among the plants and animals you would eat must be taken into consideration. The deer you eat, the fish you eat, and the rabbits you eat will sustain you only for so long (if not make you violently ill) and then your body is going to need other foodstuffs. You can delay the eventuality of malnutrition with multi-vitamins but eventually you’ll need to forage wider and wider for fruits, nuts, and vegetables — not to mention fresh water which is often in very short supply. (Camp grounds, don’t forget.)

If it was easy or reasonably possible to survive in the woods, everyone who hates their jobs would be doing it. Don’t kid yourself: If you’re on the run, you must remain in contact with human habitation and either work for or steal food or get food from a shelter in the city. If you’re holed up some where (in a tent in the hills overlooking a city, perhaps) stock up on canned goods if you can. Don’t rely on what you can pick up from the land. You run the risk of drawing attention to yourself as you visit the city (assuming you’ve got a hide out in the woods or desert) but you should consider adopting the risk since the alternative — malnutrition — is worse.

I mention this because the idea is to hide until you can rebuild your life and start living a normal life. If you eat nothing but fish for three months, malnutrition is going to reduce your chances of getting a job or having enough energy for working day labor — or having the energy to run again if your hiding place is discovered. Keep yourself as healthy as possible by taking the risks needed to obtain processed foods.

Farms are a good place to find food but they’re also a good place to run into dogs and farmers on horseback with rifles who also have access to telephones to report you. Orange groves, walnut trees, strawberry patches et al. often run along highways and they could be raided successfully and safely every now and then. You could work on a farm as “stoop labor” picking lettuce, oranges, grapes, and nuts in many States of the United States. �

Section 8: Checkpoints on America’s Highways — People Looking for you

Road blocks, police check points, sobriety checks, immigration check points, agricultural check points: You may be stopped and searched, your identification examined, and possibly compromised in America for these reasons while traveling on America’s highways. Even if “they” don’t have the check point up specifically looking for you, accidental catches happen frequently. (Ask any Highway Patrol Officer stopping a vehicle for a broken tail light. The California HP has the largest felony arrest record of any police agency anywhere in the world.)

If there’s a road block up looking specifically for you, you’ll probably not have much of a chance anyway and you probably deserve to get caught. Usually, however, a road block is up looking for someone else or, as is common during holidays, sobriety checks can get you examined by the police. You’ll want to avoid that.

  • Try not to travel during the holidays. Police are out in force due to drunk drivers and — though it’s considered unconstitutional — pulling vehicles over and conducting searches without probable cause is more common during the holidays than outside of the holidays.

You might consider using public transportation since bus and taxi drivers are not usually pulled over and, for no reason, checked. They’re usually waved past most check points though such vehicles draw extra focus at police check points. (Note: Some States have made unconstitutional laws which allows their police officers to stop and search public transportation without probable cause. This latest unconstitutional series of laws is part of the government’s insane “war on drugs” nonsense.)

  • Try to stay out of areas which have only one or a few roads leading in and out of it. Such places as you would probably consider your best place to lay low would be camping grounds and areas surrounding lakes. Such places are most often accessed by only one winding road which is very easy for the authorities to block and sift for you. Also, camp grounds provide sources of food and water — which should be acquired, of course, at night.

In remote areas such as forests, your opposition will be setting up a command post some where in your suspected location from which foot searches for you will radiate. Such command centers usually are selected for the availability of electricity, radios, telephones, and sanitation facilities. If you know the area you’re in, you can bet that the command post is a fire station, ranger station, or perhaps a camp ground or gas station.

The road blocks will be in communication via radio with the command post and, since they’re probably line-of-site radios, expect road blocks to be within five or ten miles of the command post. That’ll be a guess and there’s no guarantee that everyone in the effort is talking to each other but it’s a good bet they’ll want to. You have to decide what the most probable size of the parameter around you is and make a guess as to where road blocks might be.

Don’t forget that radio doesn’t have to be line-of-sight if the authorities are utilizing radio repeaters

You need to abandon your vehicle before you come into eye contact with your opposition. If they see you and you try to turn around and get away, there’s no point: you’re just risking the lives of innocent people and you should stop your engine and show your hands else you should bail and run on foot. But if you hear on the radio that there’s police activity in your area and you suspect a road block, taking off on foot might be your best bet. Your car is a lot easier to spot than just yourself — and yo can dig in somewhere and walk over nearly everything whereas you can’t drive a car in most places.

Listen to traffic reports! You may be informed by your local news traffic reports that there is “police activity” in an area. That activity could be in your honor.

One idea that seems to have some success is to drive down the road and abandoning the car thereafter you walk back the way you came for several miles before taking a tangent. They’ll be expecting you to either continue working your way in the direction you were driving or they expect you to take off on a tangent from where you left the car. When they find your car it becomes the center of operations and a new perimeter will be set up around it.

Another idea someone suggested was if someone must abandon one’s car, to let the air out of one tire before doubling back on foot. This will make the authorities suspect that you’ve had a flat and abandoned your car unintentionally. Unintentionally abandoning the car might mean that you didn’t twigg to the road block and bailed. That would mean that you left the car and headed for the nearest telephone to call for help. The nearest residence or town then becomes one of the center of operations and the road block further down the road becomes another center of operations. It would be considered that you had a flat, headed down the road for assistance, and then saw the road block and either turned around or headed into the hills on a tangent. By making the opposition think your plans were thwarted by a hardware failure, you force them to behave in ways you want them to and kind of gets even for what they’re making you do.

  • Freeway sifting. It happens on rare occasions yet it’s becoming more and more popular: Police will try to sift you on the freeways of America if you’re suspected to be in a general location.

This is currently done two different ways.

    • The first is manpower intensive yet has some successful results. Police officers are stationed along freeway overpasses if they’re looking for a particular make and model of a car. A circle is set up on a map and every overpass along the freeways and intersections in an operations grid is staffed with cops with radios.
  • �If such an operation sees the suspect make and model car pass under a bridge, mobile officers from outlying stations are redirected to intercept the car. It’s rare for cops on bridges to leave their stations unless the wanted scumbag is confirmed so they’ll use a number of roving police cars on outlying picket to chase down suspect vehicles, leaving the net in place.
  • �There’s really no defense for this operation other than to bail and run on foot. You’ve probably bought it, though. On California freeways you’ll not have much of a chance. In places like New Jersey, you may have a chance if there’s no helicopter watching you due to the high population density along freeways. California freeways tend to have trees and bush growing along side but the areas are wide open to visual eye contact from one bridge to the next. If there’s no trees and bushes, the highways in California tend to have high walls walling in the freeway.
    • Forced exits. More often than the above method, police will put up cones and construction vehicles to close all lanes of a freeway, making all cars take an exit, a surface road, and then an on-ramp. The idea is to make the person they’re looking for think that an accident or emergency road maintenance is being worked rather than a man hunt.
  • �As cars approach the exit, police cars by the dozen will be observing everyone in line. More police will be watching for several miles down the freeway for anyone bailing at previous exists (depending upon the length of freeway traffic backup.) Police will be watching for anyone pulling to the break-down lane and trying to avoid them.
  • �Like the other method, there’s really no defense for this other than to try to bail and run. It’s probably hopeless, though.

As previously mentioned, however, traffic stops and check points are going to be the biggest problem. They can happen at random without any notice. Agricultural check points — such as one can find on highway 15 between Las Vegas and Southern California and the one on Interstate 5 near Grapevine — are stationary and usually run 24 hours a day. The officers don’t have authority among themselves to arrest or detain you if your picture has been circulated among them. The most they can do is request that you pull over and stop and, failing to do so, they press a button and the police cruisers on station at the facility will hunt you down and stop you.

There’s really nothing you can do about stationary check points except either avoid them entirely or comply with the check point’s attendant and smile your way through and just hope your face isn’t in their book.

Roving check points and random sampling is something you have no control over. You may try to fall out of the set of profiles that cops are trained to look for to reduce the chances of getting randomly stopped and searched. Profiles cops learn to focus on are different from city to city, town to town, but you can bet that most of the profiles consists of:

  • Drug dealers or buyers. Drug dealers have a range of profiles they match. Drug buyers — being from all walks of life — have a much broader spectrum of profiles they match. Traveling in known drug trafficing areas is a bad idea. It gets worse if you’re traveling slowly. You may have no choice if you’re looking to purchase false identification papers in such areas, of course, but drug profiles are well ingrained in today’s American police force. The druggie profiles are something cops “feel” and they’re usually right. If you’re on the run and you’re in a drug dealing area, you may just smell suspicious and could get pulled over and asked what you’re doing in the area.
  • Prostitution Johns. You may find yourself driving along a street that’s heavy with prostitution. Though you’ll probably not draw attention just for driving down the street, the density of cops along such streets will be higher than elsewhere so you’ll want to avoid the area. Like with druggie areas, since you’re on the run you may just give the cop a gut feeling something’s wrong with you and get yourself pulled over. Such areas gives officers a courtroom-friendly excuse for pulling you over and searching you.
  • So-called “gang banger.” You don’t want to drive a car that’s had its suspension fucked up, it’s identification stickers removed (such as the Toyota logos the manufacturers put on) and mud on its license plates. You don’t want to be driving a car that’s missing its license plates. There shouldn’t be a lot of clothing in the back seat which such a profile often contains since such people often change their clothes after a drive-by shooting or other crimes.
  • Cruiser. In many cities there is a major street which has become a defacto cruising scene for High School or college kids. It’s usually a street that has restaurants or bars and coffee shops that are open until midnight or so. Cruising or joy riding is getting “cracked down upon” in most cities and you could be stopped if you match the profile of a cruiser.

A cruiser will be driving at night in a clean car that’s either a fairly new car, a restored classic, or any kind of car with a bunch of kids stuffed into it. If you’re driving a clean 1972 Ford Pinto with the windows rolled down at 11:00 p.m. down Sunset Blvd. in Southern California, cops in the area will register your car the first time they see it. The second time they see you driving the street will convince them you’re cruising and they may decide to pull you over. Even though you’re minding your own business, you may want to avoid streets where cruising takes place if you’re driving something that matches the profile.

The idea is to travel along America’s highways without drawing attention to yourself and ending up getting pulled out of a check point queue or getting stopped by a cop. You should think about what kind of car and what kind of “look and feel” cops are likely to pull over and work to defeat the expected image. Get a couple of books and put them on your dash board. Something from Ann Rand and Albert Einstein, maybe, or something containing intellectual material. Criminals don’t read — they’re stupid: That’s why they’re criminals. You want to look like you’re Mr. or Ms. Citizen going about your lawful business and not a wanted fugitive or a missing house wife who’s husband wants you back to further abuse you. �

Section 9: Summary

Your goals are to manufacture a new life under a new identity complete with legal recognition under your new identity. To acquire that goal, you must be ready and willing to do what it takes — without compounding any criminal activities you might be wanted for. As mentioned before, that means discarding all your friends, your family, and your way of life in favor for new friends, a new way of life and possibly a new marriage with a loving wife or husband to create a new family.

The steps you take along the way toward acquiring that new life can be boiled down to these salient points:

  • Discard your old life.
  • Limit the resolve and resources of your opposition.
  • Run from your opposition (and your old life.)
  • Hide from your opposition.
  • Make new friends.
  • Acquire a new identity. (Legal papers: Birth record, Social Security #)
  • Find gainful employment.
  • Pay your taxes.
  • Get medical, life, and automotive insurance.
  • Get a credit card — and keep it paid up.
  • Perhaps take college courses to learn a new marketable skill.
  • Acquire and maintain respectability in your community.
  • Find a wife or husband: Make a new family.
  • Don’t drink heavily, don’t use any illegal drugs, don’t do any crimes.
  • Die with dignity.

What you want to do is make your new life to the point where if you’re ever caught, your employer, friends, and neighbors will express disbelief when the cops haul you away. While getting caught shouldn’t be part of your goals, you should consider the possibility and plan accordingly.

This is very important if you build a new family: Your wife or husband should be told who you really are before you get married. Since you’re working to become a respectable, productive member of society, your prospective spouse should know your past before you get married!

Finding out your real name isn’t Michael Johnson after five years of marriage won’t help your wife maintain support for you when the cops come to haul you away. Letting her know you’re on the run and for why you’re on the run before hand means that you’ll have support if they ever do find you. �

Section 10: Special note to Earth Liberation and Animal Liberation groups

You people are faced with extraordinary problems when trying to disappear in America that aren’t experienced by the traditional citizen attempting to disappear for more traditional reasons.

Much has been written already about your problems and how to deal with them so this essay doesn’t attempt to address them. Additionally I don’t presume to claim to know what’s best for you and your loose-nit organizations since your efforts are totally outside of my experience even as I share some of your goals. I’m (Fredric Rice speaking here, by the way) a vegetarian and I find the vivisectionists trade and the animal fur trade to be worth destroying totally — however my venue is to employ completely legal avenues of recource. Still, if I may offer what I feel to be a salient point about the plight of direct-action liberationists: Your mind set.

  • You’re considered to be domestic terrorists with international ties given the advent of the Internet which allows you to communicate locally and internationally. You doubtlessly don’t consider yourself to be terrorists — domestic or foreign — however the fact is that law enforcement does consider you as such.

This is an important thing to keep in mind when on the run from the law and working to build for yourself a new identity. You may feel that burning down some barns after liberating a couple of thousand mink prisoners should not be a crime since you’re correcting a massive wrong, but your opposition consider you to be economic terrorists predicated upon ideological attributes which place you firmly into a set of profiles law enforcement use as baseline into the psychology of what drives you.

As such, your opposition is motivated to find you. Given the fact that the vivisectionist industry and the animal fur industry financially support political venues, and you’re left needing to discard any mindset you may have that your crimes are minimal. You must adopt the mindset of your opposition which considers you — rightly or wrongly — to be a considerable threat to people’s security.

  • Don’t claim that what the law enforcement agencies do to you is some how “harassment” or otherwise totally unwarranted. While police brutality against direct-actionists is very real, and while innocent people are questioned or interrogated by the authorities for no apparent reason other than to intimidate you, you need to face some facts of life simply so that if you ever do find yourself on the lam from the law, you’ll have internalized where you fit into the “food chain” so-to-speak.

Namely: By associating with animal rights and Earth rights activists, you are aligning yourself to a criminal element and you do know what you’re in for when you join protests against the bad guys. That’s the way the system works, you accepted that when you joined the resistance, so get comfortable with the consequences. If you don’t — if you persist in lamenting the woes about how unfair it all is that the cops are picking on you — you’re in a mindset that doesn’t assist the positive mental state you’ll need if you find yourself needing to hide from the law.

My advice is that you get pragmatic and admit to yourself that you’re really a criminal if you engage in direct action. Accept the fact that you’re committing a wrong even as you’re correcting a wrong. Since the law is on the side of the planet killers, vivisectionists, and the animal fur trade, the law doesn’t recognize the wrong of these industries so you may feel that you’ve done nothing wrong. In the eyes of the law, you’re in the wrong so be pragmatic about it and believe that you did wrong so that if you have to run, your mind is where it needs to be to survive.

  • Acquire the names, addresses, and telephone numbers of lawyers which work with direct-actionists and have that information with you when you go on the lam from the law. Keep it with you while you try to rebuild your new life so that in the event there’s a knock on your door (or the fascist pigs kick it in like how it’s done in Moscow) <end rant> ) you’ll be ready to acquire defense.
  • Don’t run to fellow activists to seek shelter from the law. While the above-ground activists are routinely monitored by the FBI — spot checks, usually, irregularly or regularly scheduled depending upon a number of factors — don’t forget that even under-ground activists have probably already been compromised. Assume the worst and stop associating with fellow activists. Never contact a fellow activist unless it’s from a pay telephone that you can vacate outside a ten mile radius within a ten minute time frame. That means that if you must contact people for support, it should be from a pay telephone along a freeway or other high-speed avenue.
  • Arsonists are not “political prisoners!” I have read in so many web pages for decades that animal rights or Earth rights activists like to point at their fellow activists who have been indicted and jailed and claim they’re “political prisoners.” No. They are not.

This point is important. Pretending that arsonists and vandals who smash fur farms and such — while undeniably deserving to be smashed — are some how “political prisoners” is equal to the fascists in the goverment claiming such actvists are some how “terrorists.” Neither is true and all sides who engage in such outrageously false and delusional rhetoric suffer from playing such idiot games.

If you’re trying to run and hide and rebuild your life, it’s important to get your head together, divest yourself of your comfortable delusions, and admit to yourself exactly who and what you are. Pretend you’re on the run to avoid being a “political prisoner” ingrains within you a fictitious and false view of your real situation — something that only helps your opposition.

In summation, I feel that there is a need within the direct-actionist community to get more realistic about who they are and what they’re doing; that arson is a crime, that liberating animals is against the law. Not accepting the facts pragmatically, I feel, adversely impacts an activist’s chances of avoiding capture. �

Section 11: Deserts as a Place to Hide / Squatting

Where there’s water, life is possible. True, it may be very difficult and very hard to live, depending, but anyone who’s driven, hiked, or camped in the American South West will have noticed that cities and ranches crop up where there’s surface water or where there’s been a well dug.

Within the state of California, Nevada, Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, and Colorado, there are deserts, mesas, mountains, and forests where normally people never or rarely visit; not-so-secret places where there’s water, access to a road within a day’s hike, and where a fairly rugged individual may hide while remaining basically healthy, marginally well fed, and reasonably sane.

In this section I’ll look at two such environments, neither of which I would recommend, but one of which I’d suggest is a reasonable way to live in basic health while either on the run, hiding out from the law, old girl friends, the draft for an illegal war, putative wives and such.

The first South Western environment (the one I wouldn’t recommend except for the most hearty individual) is the Mojave Desert among the volcanic rocks where there’s water if you know where to find it, and where shade from the relentless Sun can be built, if you know how to build it.

South Western Mojave Desert

Some years ago my brother Desertphile was tracking across the Mojave Desert in the dead of night, hiking a long distance from one water hole to another, using a hand-held Global Positioning System device, topo maps, and a backpack containing mostly water and tarp equipment for emergency shade.

While crossing the mouth of a small side canyon out in the middle of absolutely nowhere, he stumbled across squatters — or more accurately their dogs — living in a number of small trailors covered with camouflage netting over paint-splotched shade tarps. With no roads of any kind, the people living there had managed to some how drag small mobile trailors into the high desert and had been living there hidden from the outside world.

Thinking about this and the people squatting there, there were some very basic things they had done:

  • Shade from the sun — A long-term squat like this took time, some money, and effort and among the first priorities would have been shade from the Sun. I would hazard a guess that the camp started with a single trailor, dropped off in a Winter month, possible during the rainy season where the area might get as much as five inches of rain for the year. As time and circumstances permitted, I’d guess that the squatters camp was built up over the years piece by piece. With desert-colored splotches of paint on tarps spread not only on the trailors but in the spaces between, a reasonable amount of shade was possible.
  • Disguise from overhead — Aircraft from area Air Force Bases all other Southern California and Western Nevada would fly over the general area, not to mention the occasional commercial aircraft, power line or natural gas company. Visibly breaking up the shade tarps would help keep aircraft from spotting the squatter’s camp. Heat sources within the camp, of course, at night and possibly during the day depending on the ambient temp wouldn’t be blocked from military equipment on board military aircraft.
  • Reasonable access to water — This squatters camp was about a third to a half a day’s hike to the nearest water hole, and perhaps a half of a day’s hike to a mud hole from which muddy water could be acquired. A wheeled travois, motorized two or three wheeled vehicle, or backpack was probably used to fetch water once a month or so, probably setting out after sunset and getting back to camp before sunrise.
  • Emergency transportation — One of the things noticed at this squatters camp was a number of beat-up four-wheeled buggies, the small kind used by kids. There was no way to know whether they were used to haul water, make trips into Las Vegas for supplies, or what not, however I’d expect that any reasonably safe effort to hide out and live in such an area would include a motorized vehicle that could be driven to a hospital in the event of a broken leg, poison, snake bite, and other emergencies.
  • Minimal agriculture — There looked to be a minimal amount of food being grown. Perhaps a wise squatter will do some basic research and see what eatable plants would survive in the area if given shade.

Anyone contemplating setting up a camp in the Mojave Desert — or in any of the surrounding deserts — would obtain a topographical map, note where the indicated springs, stock ponds, and other water sources are, and then would evaluate where to locate shade for such a camp. Then the individual would investigate the water sources to verify that they’re wet and drinkable all year around — or at least during the months the individual will be surviving in the area for.

Where exactly?

One possible wide spread area of interest would be the area between Las Vegas, Nevada, and some 30 miles West of Baker, California, North of the 15 highway — perhaps within the hills along North Cima Road. Much of the lands located there are owned by the Federal government however ranchers subsidized by tax money run cattle which can be poached, and there’s water which can be found.

South of the 15 highway is more volcanic and has less water unless you go to Soda Springs off of Zyzzyx Road where there’s a ranger station and the Desert Studies center (filling up canteens there from the spring could be done without suspicions but filling up drums of water might cause people at Soda Springs to suspect you’re living out in the desert.)

North of the 15 highway your topo map will show numerous springs, tanks, and stock ponds, many of which will contain water, and many of which will be dry — but will not be listed as dry on the map so you need to investigate, take notes, take GPS coordinates, and plan thoughtfully.

Also North of highway 15 is cattle subsidized by U. S. Forest Service; cattle that has overgrazed and destroyed much of the plants and displaced much of the animals that used to eck out a meger existance in these lands. Poaching is illegal, of course, and could get you strung up, drained, and jerked like deer meat if you’re caught, so perhaps you could look at cows — what Edward Abbey called “slow elk” — as an emergency food source.

If you plan on poaching, you should do your homework and learn how to butcher a cow and transport batches of the animal from the place where you butchered it back to your camp, figuring out how to wrap what you can’t carry to keep flies, vultures, and other animals out of your meat until you can return for the rest of it.

Still, I’d recommend not poaching in the high desert out there not only because it’s illegal, not only because if you’re caught by a rancher he may decide to dump your carcass into a volcanic rock crack, but most importantly because you don’t want to draw attention to the fact that you’re living in the general area. A rancher coming up short on his count might very well put down the shortage to “natural causes” but if you leave remains to be found and the remains show that the missing cattle was butchered and carted off, the Feds like nothing better than to mount up a nice desert posse to come look for you.

How I Would Do It

For setting up a squatters camp in the deserts North of Highway 15 and West of Baker, I might choose somewhere in the Iron Mountain range, North of the military base, and South West of the bombing range. Here’s what I would do:

  • Acquire topo maps of the area, and acquire an aircraft sectional map of the area.
  • Contrive a suitable explanation on why I’m treking all over the desert where humans rarely visit. With a digital camera, claiming that I’m creating an Internet web site to record some of the natural rock formations of the area would be a suitable explanation. The notes I take would be vague to others who might read it yet meaningful to me when I lay it all out for evaluation.
  • Note the dirt roads in the area, use a ruler to note as accurately as possible the indicated springs, stock ponds, water tanks, buildings, and towers in the area, writing down their logitude and latitude in a book of note paper. Figure out the worst-case distance between the water source and narby dirt roads.
  • Get on the Internet and do research on the names of the springs listed in the notebook to get an idea on what might be in the area and how often humans visit it. Also to get information on the types of plants and animals that live in the area, including nearby ranches and cattle.
  • Visit as many water sources as possible, hiking to them with a GPS hand-held device, topo maps, notebook, digital camera, a writing pen, matches, water (don’t forget the hat!) I’d do as much of my hiking at night, stopping when the GPS indicates I’m in the general area, and then search for the water source at first day light, check the condition of the water source and then use the GPS device, topo maps, and maybe a compass to return to my car an hour ot two before sunset. Take digital photographs and make written notes about the area, the water, and signs of human visits.
  • Visit numerous ravines, craigs, and valleys in among the volcanic rocks of the hills and mountains in the area looking for a suitable camp site, making note of how far they are from suitable water sources. Such camp sites would have to be modifiable with tarps and covers that would provide shade and invisibility to aircraft.
  • After doing as much research on the water in an area, and as much research on likely camp sites in the area, all of the accumulated information would be placed on a table and all of the salient factors would be considered for where to place a camp:
    • Distance from dirt road where a vehicle can be parked so that supplies and camp equipment can be backpacked from the vehicle to the camp.
    • Distance and time from the likely camp sites to one or more water sources so that water can be fetched within a third of a day’s hike. This would allow a water-fetching to take place comfortably within a single night. Note any hills, ravines, mountains that have to be bypassed to make it to water, considering that it will probably be done at night, and also note that the desert looks completely different at night than it does during the day.
    • Availability of rock formations that can house a camp that can have tarps cover it over.
  • After selecting a suitable camp site, I’d start moving equipment into the camp:
    • Park on the closest dirt road and hike into the new camp site with spray-painted splotchy desert colored tarps and other covering, water, matches, and bedding.
    • Set up the tarps and other covers.
    • Hike off in a circle around the camp and verify that the camp’s location can not be seen by anyone who might walk around the area.
    • Spend a couple of nights and days under the tarp to see what living there would be like, taking note of how cold and how hot it gets. If something about the camp isn’t acceptable, relocate.
    • After deciding that the camp is acceptable, stash some of the remaining water and bedding under the camp tarps and return to the vehicle.
    • Return to the dirt road, parking the vehicle a little ways off from the previous visits with additional equipment, and back pack it to the new camp: Camp stove, fuel, lantern, frying pan, water pan, cups, wooden spoons, more water, more bedding, clothes, books, batteries, flashlights, car battery, solar cells, power inverter. Basically as much equipment as I would want for a comfortable camp would be unloaded in numerous trips, most of it done at night when it’s cool. I’d bring more water with me to stash at the camp with each trip.
    • After the camp is assembled, I’d get a friend to drop me off at the dirt road with my backpack and as much water as I could carry. That way the vehicle could be driven back to civilization to leave me there without any sign that someone’s in the area.
    • Arrange a date and general time when the friend would visit the dirt road again a month later, agreeing on a radio frequency to call on. At the same time acquire more books, canned food, perhaps, and other stuff that might have been thought of during the last month. If all is well, arrange for the friend to visit only once every 4 months or so.
    • If a friend can’t be found, hiding the vehicle would have to be done. Some care would need to be taken about the health of the vehicle since the desert can reach 120 degrees and some of the metal on the vehicle can get much hotter than that.

The result would be a camp that has a tarp for a cover, a tarp for a floor, possibly tarps for walls, all tight and roped up with rocks and poles, with a 12-volt lamp being driven by a car battery that’s charged by a solar panel through a power inverter.

Books and a laptop computer would be provided for entertainment and perhaps the mood to write a book of my own would strike. I would expect boredom to be as big a problem as food, water, and shade so more thinking about creative ways to remain occupied would have to be done.

Very likely after a couple of weeks it would be discovered what was forgotten and what’s needed to make living in the area possible. Hiking at night into Baker, California, every other month or so to draw money out of the bank, purchase canned goods, and visit the local Taco Bell would be possible however if anyone was looking for someone doing so, that points an arrow straight at them.

South Western Arizona Virgin River Gorge

A better place to hide out and set up a long-term living camp far from any human being would be within the Virgin River Gorge. During a drive from Utah to California along the 70 and then the 15 highway, one passes through the Virgin River Gorge carved by the Virgin River. On a topo map the rough longitude and lattitude coordinates would be somewhere around.

The gorge itself is long and wide, consisting of a seemingly endless series of canyons, ravines, cliffs, and spires, most of which is impossible to get to on foot. Highway 15 passes right through the gorge and follows the Virgin River for some distance before the hills disappear and the desert opens up to the West toward Valley of Fire and the Moapa Piute Indian Reservation lands.

A great deal of fresh water is available in these canyons all year around though most of the waterways are muddy. Fresh, clear water is found in fairly straight runs of the Virgin River and in standing, deeper plunge pools created when the river’s course changed slightly over the years.

Hiking and camping among this gorge is difficult, to understate the case. Sheer cliff walls one or two hundred feet high create box canyons and box ravines and together with sharp shards of rock and soft but lose sandy rock, the gorge’s innermost secret areas are very difficult to get in and out of and getting lost is easy.

Five years ago I was visiting the Valley of Fire where far to the South along a dirt road behind the Piute fireworks and casino there’s a good water spring that’s rarely visited by wheeled vehicle. Being in the general area I drove East into the Virgin River Gorge and parked some distance from the GPS coordinates offered above.

With a backpack containing food, water, matches, bedding, compass, camera, GPS unit, USGS aircraft photographs of the gorge, and other equipment I parked my vehicle along a turn out on the highway and hiked into the gorge.

After walking in for about two hours I set up camp, ate something, got out my book, and read until it got too dark to read, then I set out my sleeping bag and laid down on it (it was about 80 degrees at midnight there.)

Around an hour after dark I heard someone pounding metal on rock and I stood up thinking someone was pounding on the highway some distance away, at first, yet walking a little around my camp I placed the pounding toward the South West. After about 5 minutes of the noise it stopped and all that could be heard was the crickets and frogs some distance in the river and the far-away drone of the big rigs using engine breaking on the highway 15 decline.

In the morning I went looking for the source of the noise and I found a desert hermit living along the Virgin River in among trees, some of which he had relocated himself some years ago. The old guy had a large camp and a motorcycle. I took a GPS reading, returned to my car, and moved it to the West side of the highway, then returned to camp with the guy for the rest of the day, that night, and then left early the next morning.

This month — just a week ago — I found that the guy had left, gone to live with his daughter whose husband had died but his story is relevant to this section of this piece. Some of the relevant aspects of his squatters camp:

  • Rope and pully was used to move the motorcycle in and out of the gorge to the highway at night. The nearest town is some 10 miles or less away though the canned goods there tend to be very expensive compared to the next large city, Las Vegas.
  • His daughter knew where he lived — and didn’t approve. But she helped. A crushed tin can was placed under a rock behind a mile marker on the highway and inside the can the man living there was able to convey notes to his daughter back and forth. (Neither knew they could acquire 2-meter HAM radios without a license.)
  • On occasion the daughter would hike in to camp with her father until she decided she got too out of shape. She would bring him books and magazines which the old guy would burn after reading, and would bring clothes or other things he asked for. She would also bring endless nagging and complaints asking him to move in with her in her appartment in Las Vegas.
  • The old man shaved every day and bathed in the river every day — or more than once a day during the summer.
  • The guy hated the U. S. government, taxes, and “those bastards,” whoever they were.
  • His bank account had monthly Social Security deposits made of less than some $2000 Dollars however his expenses were such that he’d been accumulating money for all the years he’d been living in the desert. His only real expense was food, gasoline, and telephone calls into Las Vegas.
  • The guy was sharp — well educated, extremely bright, likeable, friendly, witty, and could tell a thousand jokes. He remembered the Great Depression, laughed at “those fools in their fancy cars with the windows rolled up” on the highway, and absolutely despised and felt pity for the people “spending their lives in their fancy cars stuck in city traffic.”
  • He hadn’t read any Edward Abbey but had read everything Sam Clemens had ever written. Liked Snoopy comics, disliked every other comic he could think of.
  • Burnable trash was burned at night in small chunks. Trash that couldn’t be burned — cans and such — were smashed flat with rocks and added to a hole dug for the purpose, a comfortable distance away from the actual camp.
  • Shade was created by using existing bush and trees, and by the relocating of bush and trees which were then watered. The camp itself was a low-hung series of tarps just tall enough to stand up in with a tarp on the ground, nailed down into fairly hard sandstone, with blankets covering it.
  • No lighting was used for dark nights other than small camp fires that couldn’t be seen either directly or through reflected light. The guy started out with candles the first year, flashlights for a couple of years, and then decided moonlight and starlight together with the campfire was enough.

Some Other Areas

Two other areas spring instantly to mind when it comes to long-term squatting near water. Ceder City, Utah has a muddy river going through it, bounded by a shallow canyon with a bike trail along one side and a busy highway on the other. I’ve found a person camping there long-term once and it looked fairly comfortable.

The other location is along the San Gabriel River above Azusa, California, along Highway 39. Camping there long term is fairly dangerous due to the large number of illegal Mexicans and the large number of gun nuts that frequent the area, shooting into the hills at night without a care in the world that somebody might be camping or living in the canyons.

In summation of this section, people on the run, in hiding, or otherwise wishing to step out of mainstream society can do so safely, in health, and without risk to one’s sanity though it seems to me that to do so some contact — if not support — with others still living in society is needed.

There are secret, hidden places in America’s South West among the deserts, mesas, mountains, and forests where people can hermit themselves, with or without the aid and support of others. But to do so required planning, creativity, and foresight — as well as a willingness to pack up and relocate if a site that’s selected turns out to be inappropriate after awhile.

Incidentally, the U. S. Forest Service generally allows for campers to remain at a site for 14 days after which their rules dictate that the camper must leave. What constitutes leaving will depend upon the individual Ranger who discovers a camper. Some will allow that moving a mile from one’s camp constitutes leaving at which time the 14 day limit begins again. Other Rangers will demand that the camper leave a particular geographical area after 14 days.

So being discovered squatting can cause problems beyond any warrants that may be pending for your arrest. Being able to show a bank account might save you from being arrested and detained as a vagrant yet I believe that how you look — your appearances — when you’re discovered (if ever) would dictate what happens to you (if anything.)

That goes for what your camp looks like: If your camp looks like you’ve been there for a long time and looks like you intend to be there a long time, any Ranger discovering you squatting will have a different opinion on what to do with you than if your camp looked like you just got there. If discovered you could claim you’ve been there for three days and plan to “return back to work after my vacation is over in four days” and perhaps you’ll be believed. That could keep you out of the vagrant hatch long enough to relocate.

Then again it’s anybody’s question on whether you’ll be asked to show identification and whether you’ll be checked for wants and warrants. My experience when encountering Rangers and other authority types in the South West is that they’ll make sure you have enough water, that you know where you are, that you have a hat on, and that you aren’t committing suicide in stupid, irresponsible ways, they’ll ask you to be careful out here and to on their way. Squatters who look like they’ve been camping for a long time may get run into the local police station so I’d suggest you keep your camp looking new and have a good story to tell about calling a friend to come pick you up in a few days — and make sure the name and telephone of your friend is valid even if said friend isn’t aware that you’re squatting. �

Section 12: Fright Hopping — Riding the Rails

Fright hopping isn’t safe and unless you’re in fairly good shape I wouldn’t recommend it… And even if you are in fairly good shape, I wouldn’t recommend it unless there’s a very real and pressing need to get out of an area fairly quickly.

If law enforcement is after you and they know you’re in an area, of course, then they’ll likely have all fright trains and passenger trains monitored and scanned however there are lots of places to hide on fright trains, most of them quite dangerous.

There’s a great deal of information available on the Internet about how to safely hop freight trains and you should check them out with the URL links offered below in this section. But this section will offer a fairly brief summation of what you need to do to hop frieght trains as an emergency means of escape.

Endless Safety Hazards When Freight Hopping

  • Crossing rail lines inside and outside of rail yards is dangerous enough; walking through rail yards and switching yards it even worse. One of the primary reasons why vehicles and pedestrians so often get struck or run over by locomotives is because humans can’t always judge accurately the speed of locomotives coming toward them. Crossing rails can be dangerous.
  • Walking along the rails can be just as dangerous as crossing them — even though I and endless kids did so for many years without problem. Typically one steps off the tracks when a train approaches and moves away from the rails to allow the train to go by, then one returns to the rails or ties. But on trellis or bridges there may not be a way to leave the tracks, and if there is the sides of the rails may not be wide enough to safely allow a train to pass.
  • When in a yard, cars very often use gravity to move from place to place based on remote switching. Since they’re unpowered and since they can roll quietly, you need to watch out for slowly moving or quickly moving cars that you can’t hear coming.
  • When blocked by a train, don’t climb under it to cross. Either go around, climb over, or find a way to pass between the coupled cars rather than try to roll or crawl under the cars. Though they’re heavy and have enormous inertia, locomotives are designed to get things rolling quickly to break the massive moment of inertia of each car in line and things can move very quickly.
  • Yard Bulls — security people paid for by the carrier — must be avoided in yards even though most will let you go if you’re caught the first time trying to ride his trains. Many Bulls, however, will give you a solid beating on a bad day or simply hold you for the cops to arrest you, something you don’t want. Bulls and other individuals you’ll want to avoid in the yard often drive vehicles that are easy to spot, and they all have radios so that they can listen to the yard dispatchers for orders to stop or vacate an area. White vehicles are very common since they’re easy to see.
  • Non-locomotive equipment can move and crush parts of you. Switches — movable rails at “points” along the tracks — can move by remote command either from automated processing equipment or by the command of human operators. The track equipment detects train car wheels, not human feet so the equipment and human operators can’t tell you’re occupying a point before they move it and lock your foot in place.
  • Yards and the areas outside of yards are frequented by hobos (a.k.a. hoebos) which may or may not be dangerous. Additionally criminals may prey on tramps, bums, and hobos that ride the rails and if you don’t watch what you’re doing, you could be trapped and assaulted, robbed, or killed. Many hobos are mentally unstable however most will be friendly and will share what they have provided you share what you have. Among the most salient things hobos you may meet will have is information. Information about train schedules is valuable. Hopping a freight with another hobo who’s experienced in also very valueable for first-time hoppers.
  • Hopping fright trains is difficult and dangerous when they’re moving. Typically you’ll have a backpack that must also get on the train with you. There are numerous places to get on a train but the days of box cars that are safe to travel in are becoming rare. These days the cars are grain carriers, stacked trailor carriers, and other things that afford less safe places for humans than what once existed.
  • Getting off a moving train is difficult and dangerous since it’s rather difficult for humans to accurately judge how quickly they’re moving before they jump. Having to start running before you hit the ground means you could fall, trip, roll under the wheels and make a considerable mess.
  • Falling off of a perch on a car when you’re asleep could be a problem unless you’ve found a safe, comfortable place to sleep. Since a great many locomotives average less than 20 miles an hour, the time you spend getting out of town to anywhere may be a whole day. On the other hand some freight trains will travel anywhere up to 50 or 60 miles an hour — it all depends on the gradient of the hills, the radius of curves, the number of cars vs. the accumulative rated horsepower of the locomotive engines, temporary speed restrictions, and a host of other factors.

The dangers are considerable and you would have to decide what’s acceptable to you and what’s too dangerous. If you can’t hitch hike and need to leave an area without being seen, you may feel that the dangers of fright hopping are acceptable.

What You Should Bring When Freight Hopping

Since this piece is about disappearing from America’s view and — with any luck — reappearing somewhere else to restart a normal life in some other place, it may be that you’ll want to travel with as many worldly possessions as you can carry. This isn’t a good idea and for reasons that were described at the beginning of this piece.

But to safely and comfortably use freight trains, there’s probably a minimum amount of things you should brig with you:

  • Wear dark clothing to make it difficult for yard Bulls and police as well as for average citizens to spot you. Your backpack or knapsack should likewise be fairly dark. Since you may be using your sleeping bag to keep warm when exposed on a moving car, your sleeping bag should also be fairly dark.
  • Your backpack or knapsack shouldn’t be too heavy since you’ll be throwing it around a lot. You shouldn’t have any breakables in your pack since anything breakable will almost certainly break. You might practice hauling your pack around, throwing it up onto dressers to get an idea on how heavy or difficult it will be to manage.
  • Additional warm clothing is a must to avoid freezing to death or spending wakeless days unable to sleep because it’s so cold. Unless you can get out of the wind, layers of clothing is the only thing that’ll keep you from freezing. Locos traveling 50 or 60 miles an hour can cause the wind to suck every bit of heat out of you and if you’re reasonably healthy when the locomotive stops, it could be that you’ll be caught simply because you couldn’t get up and run away.
  • Gloves, boots, hat, sunscreen. Clutching moving iron can remove a lot of skin from your hands. Being dragged along the ground as you scramble up the side of a moving car can remove a lot of toes. Sun beating down on an exposed perch for relentless hours can burn you without a hat — not to mention make you irritable, crazy, and stupid. Cover your nose, neck, ears, forhead, and whatever other parts of skin you might expose to prolonged durations of sunlight, perferably before you get on and get moving unless you can smear stuff on safely on the move.
  • Maps of the area which show rail lines, an atlas, topo maps, time tables, and maybe even a hand-held GPS unit might all be good to bring with you — if you have the time to gather them. It’s always best to know where the train you hopped is going though if you’ve hopped a train to anywhere, it’s assumed you consider anyplace to be perferable to where you are. But the objective is to not get caught and to be healthy once you’re safe, and knowing where you’re going and how long it might take to get there are things you should try to find out.
  • Water and some amount of food; whatever you can safely and comfortably carry. You’ll dehydrate when exposed to the wind faster than you will if you’re not exposed. Alcohol will make you dehydrate even faster so always bring water, never alcohol. Additionally alcohol can be smelled by dogs hunting you.
  • Something to read. You’ll be waiting for trains, waiting for information, waiting to get into the next town, and generally spending a lot of time doing nothing. A radio will also help pass the time and could give you news you could use.

That would be probably a minimum of the stuff you would need to take when hopping a freight train. Information about where trains are going is something you can get from workers in rail yards since they’ll usually assist you — everyone except the Bulls whose job it is to keep you out. Rail workers who are paid minimum wage and may not speak the language are often willing to help inform you about which direction a train is going.

The Types of Cars To Hop

Some cars are more dangerous than others. There are lists of cars in the order of preference available all over the Internet yet for now, here’s what’s been suggested in a preliminary scan of such texts:

  • Open box cars
  • Rear platform of a grain hauler
  • Between the wheels of a biggyback trailor hauler
  • In the well behind cargo containers
  • Second or third level of empty car carriers
  • Empty gondolas.

There are many reasons why you should avoid parking inside of grain or gravel haulers, and avoid parking inside full cargo containers but the primary danger is that of shifting cargo. You can be burried by gravel, crushed by crates, crushed by moving cars that weren’t tied down well, and get crushed by damn near everything.

But as mentioned above, open box cars are getting rare. If you’re planning on hopping a freight train, find a place to hide where you won’t be seen and watch a number of trains go by and see what kinds of cars there are to get a feel for what kind of transport you can expect. �

Section 13: Dropping off the Grid: Peace Corps, Others

From time to time I get people emailing me asking about religious organizations, International organizations, or other ways to drop out of the “Rat Race” and my response has always been that to drop off the grid successfully, one must have large amounts of money or be willing to live in abject poverty and hunger.

But there are a few other alternatives to be considered:

The problem with signing on with the Peace Corps is that there are a number of requirements you must meet in order to volunteer with them and, of course, they are the Federal government and they will keep trace of you if they ship you outside of the United States.

  • If you have enough money to pay for your own food and other needs and are willing to live in poverty, you can volunteer to work with elderly Navajos.

This type of work requires that you have your head straight and that you have your shit together. This type of work is not a vacation; it’s hard and serious work of long hours and effort. It has the added benefit and attraction that volunteering to assist is a good way to drop out of the rat race, disappear from the eyes of the U. S. government, and you’re kept very busy and occupied.

Volunteering to assist elderly Navajos requires that you become familiar with the social behavioral aspects of Navajo tribes and a good place to find such information may be found here.

Volunteers are asked to commit to at minimum two months, and there is a formal interview process of hopeful volunteers that one is subjected to to ensure that volunteers have their heads together, can actually do the work that’s needed, and are trustworthy.

Contact these people through their web site to find out more about working with assisting in herding sheep, other farming and ranching needs, and working with the elderly. But remember: only strong-minded, responsible people are considered for such work. It’s a 24 hour job that few are capable of committing to, and few are able to complete their committments.

  • Farm work or ranch work is a possibility if you can find such work where live-ins are allowed. This type of work is usually very low pay — far below minimum wage — and you would be working with illegal immigrants, many of which may not speak English.

The industrial farms and ranches aren’t what you would be looking for since they have forms, documents, and other tracking of your employment and are answerable to government agencies. Additionally the large industrial farms and ranches will usually not allow workers to live on their property.

There are, however, an increasingly rare number of family farms and ranches situated around the United States, places where families have been working the land or running ranches for generations and where people’s children have moved away and the older parents are looking for live-in help.

But these positions are rare and seldom are they advertised. They are discovered through word-of-mouth from other ranchers and farmers in the area, or by postings on bulletin boards in farming or ranching communities in their civic centers or markets.

This type of work has the benefit that you can drop out of the eyes of the government and still maintain a healthy, productive, and busy life while being paid low wages but also being given a place to live. It has the draw back of not offering medical coverage or insurance of any kind such that if you’re hurt or injured, medical bills will have to be paid from your chronically empty pocket.

Because family farm or ranch work means working closely with the owners or operators of the land, you can expect to be subjected to a very detailed and close examination of your physical and mental makeup, and trustworthyness is going to be the number 1 priority among any such a job.

From what I’ve been reading and from the emails of people who have dropped off the grid from time to time, there are ways to drop out of the rat race, and the three suggested methods described above have been shown to me to be viable.

But there are some primary aspects of one’s behavior and attitude that one must meet before dropping out and disappearing into some work enclaive like these:

  • Say “goodbye” to money. If you’re paid at all for your work, it is either through room and board, or it is through a room and a small amount of money each month from which you purchase your own food. Some months you may be paid, some months you may not be depending on how well (or not) the farm or ranch does during the course of the year.
  • Be ready to get your head out of your ass, get your shit together, and start cleaning up your act if you’re dropping out because you’re laboring under emotional problems you’re trying to divest yourself of. The Peace Corps, farms, and ranches don’t want to baby sit and the owners and operators don’t want to provide psychiatry services; they want volunteers or workers who can do the job competently, either with minimal instruction and supervision, or without supervision.
  • If you smoke, drink alcohol, or use illegal narcotics, stop it. Unless you’re wealthy, dropping off the grid means you can’t afford such things anyway — or at least store bought tobacco, alcohol, or drugs.

Discarding your old life and working toward rebuilding or renewing means scraping off some of the old baggage that brought you to the point where you’re looking for a new life, and smoking, drinking alcohol, and using illegal narcotics is probably going to be part of that old life you need to toss in the trash.

Any prospective employeer is going to look for any outward signs that you use illegal narcotics, even though — as may be with a family ranch or farm — the owners or operators may themselves smoke a little canabis from time to time. A prospective employeer won’t like to have someone working and living on the property who uses narcotics even if the owner, operators, foreman or what have you smokes pot. That’s just the way it is.

  • Expect to be the “low man on the totem pole” if you look for the type of employment where you’re working out of the eyes of the government. If you walk onto a family or industrial ranch or farm and ask for work, don’t immediately ask about wages since it’s likely that the owners or operators will want to examine you and try you out for the day to determine whether they’ll give you a serious try out.

In such places where a foreman of a farm or ranch assigns you tasks for the day to evaluate whether you’re worth giving a serious looking over, you may be given a place to sleep and something to eat, and in the morning you may be asked to hit the road or you may be asked to stick around and talk a bit.

If you’re asked to stay and answer questions, you could expect to be grilled heavily with questions designed to delve into whether you’re trustworthy and capable of performing the work, and whether you’ll put in the required number of hours every day without slacking.

  • Also such work may be seasonal with farms and ranches hireing certain months during the year. You will be competing with illegal immigrants for such seasonal work, of course, however if you’re in the United States legally or are a citizen, you stand a better chance of being hired than an illegal immigrant has if the employeer has had warnings by the government about hireing illegal workers.

Section 14: Montana Supreme Court Notes Ability to Track Everyone

Justice James C. Nelson was asked to rule a case where a suspect’s trash that had been discarded. The contention was whether the evidence contained within someone’s trash can be used against them in a court of law. While Justice Nelson affirmed, he felt compelled to express the growing realm of trackability and loss of freedom, issues that are covered in this document.

This is a fitting Opinion for inclusion in the Vanishing Point document since the ability to locate wanted individuals by their purchasing habits is always just around the corner, lacking only the motivation to instigate such measures. The technology is already there with — as the Justice notes — “discount cards” that are used by so many people to purchase their foods and other goods.


Justice James C. Nelson concurs.

I have signed our Opinion because we have correctly applied existing legal theory and constitutional jurisprudence to resolve this case on its facts.

I feel the pain of conflict, however. I fear that, eventually, we are all going to become collateral damage in the war on drugs, or terrorism, or whatever war is in vogue at the moment. I retain an abiding concern that our Declaration of Rights not be killed by friendly fire. And, in this day and age, the courts are the last, if not only, bulwark to prevent that from happening.

In truth, though, we are a throw-away society. My garbage can contains the remains of what I eat and drink. It may contain discarded credit card receipts along with yesterday’s newspaper and junk mail. It might hold some personal letters, bills, receipts, vouchers, medical records, photographs and stuff that is imprinted with the multitude of assigned numbers that allow me access to the global economy and vice versa.

My garbage can contains my DNA.

As our Opinion states, what we voluntarily throw away, what we discard–i.e., what we abandon–is fair game for roving animals, scavengers, busybodies, crooks and for those seeking evidence of criminal enterprise.

Yet, as I expect with most people, when I take the day’s trash (neatly packaged in opaque plastic bags) to the garbage can each night, I give little consideration to what I am throwing away and less thought, still, to what might become of my refuse. I don’t necessarily envision that someone or something is going to paw through it looking for a morsel of food, a discarded treasure, a stealable part of my identity or a piece of evidence. But, I’ve seen that happen enough times to understand–though not graciously accept–that there is nothing sacred in whatever privacy interest I think I have retained in my trash once it leaves my control–the Fourth Amendment and Article II, Sections 10 and 11, notwithstanding.

Like it or not, I live in a society that accepts virtual strip searches at airports; surveillance cameras; “discount” cards that record my buying habits; bar codes; “cookies” and spywear on my computer; on-line access to satellite technology that can image my back yard; and microchip radio frequency identification devices already implanted in the family dog and soon to be integrated into my groceries, my credit cards, my cash and my new underwear.

I know that the notes from the visit to my doctor’s office may be transcribed in some overseas country under an out-sourcing contract by a person who couldn’t care less about my privacy. I know that there are all sorts of businesses that have records of what medications I take and why. I know that information taken from my blood sample may wind up in databases and be put to uses that the boilerplate on the sheaf of papers I sign to get medical treatment doesn’t even begin to disclose. I know that my insurance companies and employer know more about me than does my mother. I know that many aspects of my life are available on the Internet. Even a black box in my car–or event data recorder as they are called–is ready and willing to spill the beans on my driving habits, if I have an event–and I really trusted that car, too.

And, I also know that my most unwelcome and paternalistic relative, Uncle Sam, is with me from womb to tomb. Fueled by the paranoia of “ists” and “isms,” Sam has the capability of spying on everything and everybody–and no doubt is. But, as Sam says: “It’s for my own good.”

In short, I know that my personal information is recorded in databases, servers, hard drives and file cabinets all over the world. I know that these portals to the most intimate details of my life are restricted only by the degree of sophistication and goodwill or malevolence of the person, institution, corporation or government that wants access to my data.

I also know that much of my life can be reconstructed from the contents of my garbage can.

I don’t like living in Orwell’s 1984; but I do. And, absent the next extinction event or civil libertarians taking charge of the government (the former being more likely than the latter), the best we can do is try to keep Sam and the sub-Sams on a short leash.

As our Opinion states, search and seizure jurisprudence is centered around privacy expectations and reasonableness considerations. That is true even under the extended protections afforded by Montana’s Constitution, Article II, Sections 10. and 11. We have ruled within those parameters. And, as is often the case, we have had to draw a fine line in a gray area. Justice Cotter and those who have signed the Opinion worked hard at defining that line; and I am satisfied we’ve drawn it correctly on the facts of this case and under the conventional law of abandonment.

That said, if this Opinion is used to justify a sweep of the trash cans of a neighborhood or community; or if a trash dive for Sudafed boxes and matchbooks results in DNA or fingerprints being added to a forensic database or results in personal or business records, credit card receipts, personal correspondence or other property being archived for some future use unrelated to the case at hand, then, absent a search warrant, I may well reconsider my legal position and approach to these sorts of cases–even if I have to think outside the garbage can to get there. �

Section 15: Hanging Out in the Mojave Desert — How It Was Done

The first video below (which is a YouTube object that will play if you click on it and wait a while) is a description of how Desertphile spent 22 months in the Mojave Desert — California and Nevada. Various things to be aware of when squatting in the desert is offered as is some good commentary on water and the people one might meet out there. The second video shows how a solar oven was made and how it’s used. �

Section 16: Some good comments offered by readers

Over the years many emails have come in to The Skeptic Tank commenting upon things within this document, many people offering suggested additions, changes, and sections that should be removed. One individual — CP is his initials; I didn’t get permission to use his name — offered most of the suggested comments which are provided in this section.

This is a living document — the web page has been viewed by millions of people, according to the web site statistics engine on the web site’s server, and this web page remains the single most read web page on all of Skeptic Tank since the enactment of the “USA PTRIOT Act” — and there are over half a million pages on The Skeptic Tank so that says a bit about this page — as well as a growing desire to escape the ever growing fascism in the United States.

Point of correction and commentary. This section will be added as more and more comments are received through email. Some of the suggestions have been so good that I have copied them from my inbound email mail box word for word.

  • A missing person’s report is generally not something that can be filed until some 24 hours after the person has gone missing — in most States of the Union. Additionally it usually requires a family member or some other unique “qualified” individual to file a missing person’s report.

Because of this, sposes who are attempting to vanish might consider getting themselves ready to do so ahead of time, ducking out and running as soon as their spouse leaves for work. The 24 hour rule may start with the time you were last seen, or it may start on the morning of your disappearance, or your State might not have such a rule.

Some States don’t apply the 24 hour rule if there is any indication that foul play was involved, or if there is any indication that you might be suicidal or harbor violent intentions of your own.

On the other hand, if you have a history of domestic difficulties and you suddenly go missing, suspicion may come down on your spouse and if it’s considered that your spouse might have done you in, the authorities may set aside any 24 hour rule for that reason as well.

Point being: You may or may not be afforded 24 hours before any law enforcement offer or agency feels the need to look for you. If you’re a minor, of course, the 24 hour rule is probably not going to apply, even if you have a history of running away from home.

  • If you are employed, make arrangements in advance. First off, stop looking at this stuff at work. Network administrators have on going logs for where their users visit when they are supposed to be working. Go to a public library, or if you have a laptop, do it from a wifi location. Don’t do it at home, because it is information that can be used against you. Don’t do it at work. Do it from a public place.
  • Begin to express your dislike for your employment, and if possible, have the quiet conversation with your boss about being a part of the next layoff. It comes with a serverance check. In some cases, you can prearrange to have your 401k liquidated giving you additional funds to vanish. If you don’t have a job to disappear from, there are fewer leads for your pursuers.
  • Carry as little cash as possible, but find safe places to hide cash. Scatter it around so that in the even one cache is found, you have others.
  • Change hair color and cut as soon as possible. If you are a man, grow or shave your mustache as soon as possible. Mustaches are readily spotted, but beards, not so much.
  • If you are going to squat, get a Boy Scout Handbook. The information contained is invaluable, including simple first aid and how to get spotted when you need to be. Also how to build a shelter, and how to survive in the wilderness.
  • If you are going to squat in the desert, the landscape is food and water. Learn what plants are edible. Realize that they will be a shock to your system and expect what is to be expected from a radical dietary shift.
  • Properly skinning your poached meat will protect it from flies. Learn how to properly skin animals. Properly tanning the hide of your poach will give you clothing and additional shelter. Learn how. Properly “jerking” your poach will prevent it from spoiling giving you food sources for a long time.
  • The US National Park Service has scores of backcountry hiking areas. Take your survival skills on a “test run”. When you are ready to “drop off the grid”, you will know what to expect.
  • Drop your car off at a border crossing. Preferably on the other side of the border. The additional headache of working with international agencies causes your pursuers to waste additional time negotiating jurisdiction. And the Mexican side of the border is where you want your center of operations to be. Walking back across the border during normal “rush” is an easy way to blend.

Consider using cameras at transportation facilities to your advantage. Buy your $500 beater car and park it the day before. Drive your own car to the airport, bus station, trainstation, etc. Go into restroom and change your clothes, cutting and destroying as previously mentioned.

If you can’t cut your hair, at least shave and acquire a new wig. You should have also destroyed your bag that you carried in. Go out the door and get into your beater car and drive away. Dump that car as quickly as possible and acquire a 3rd. Sell it to a car lot and it, in effect, disappears.

  • Put paper napkins around any glass, can or bottle that you drink from. Open push doors with the back of your hand. Wipe the counter tops of restrooms with a clean paper towel before you walk out and toss the papertowel into another trash can. Get in these habits before you leave.
  • Wear a hat… everywhere. Hat’s hide the face from cameras. Most cameras are higher than your head. Spend a lot of time looking at the counter. Or your shoes.
  • Find nomadic jobs. They don’t have insurance, but the people are communal and will help when they can. Rennaissance faires, traveling Carnivals, Migrant farm workers are all nomadic.

Also look for natural disasters. There is a lot of work to be done, and there is also meals and shelter. I am not saying that you should defraud the government and take relief funds, but if you were dishonest sort, you may be able to.

  • Many small towns don’t have daylabor programs, but if you are reasonably well groomed, you can get day labor by knocking on doors and asking the people of the house if they have some outside chores you can do in exchange for lunch. If they are friendly sorts, you may be able to work for them a couple of days, but don’t press your luck. If there isn’t, move on quickly.
  • Like others said, shed the baggage. No one wants to hear your sob story and how everyone is out to get you. You left and aren’t ready to be found yet. That’s all that you need to tell them.
  • Be prepared for a spiritual awakening. Be prepared to have a new appreciation for people and less appreciation for material things. Be prepared to learn how wonderful and cruel the human being can be. Learn to drop your grudges. Any heavy emotional baggage takes physical energy to contain and release. You are going to be tired and hungry and just won’t have the energy to maintain it.
  • If you decide to carry a gun, realize that you may be breaking laws of the state that you are in. Realize also that it can be taken away from you and used against you.

Know that guns and jewelry are quick pawns for quick money. If your pursuers know that you have a firearm and they have the serial number, they will track you down. If they don’t have that serial number, then a pawnbroker may not release your stuff for 90-120 days. Pawn and get out of town. Don’t use the same pawn shop, preferably don’t use the same town. If you can get away with it, don’t use the same name, address or phone number, either.

  • Dropping off the grid isn’t what most people do for a lifetime. It is what they do for a couple of months to get their heads on straight, gather up their courage to face whatever they are running from.

The longer you are off, the harder it is to get back on. The longer you are off, the less people are going to be willing to side with you. Once you drop off, realize when you try and get back on, your friends may be gone. So may your family. �

Section 17: Public Camps and National Forest Squatting

In the Angeles National Forest there are private camps which exist upon leased property, leased from the United States Forest Service or “grandfatheredt” in to otherwise National public lands as private holdings. One such camp was Camp Follows (see http://www.hikercentral.com/campgrounds/101704.html ) which no longer exists, another such camp is Camp Williams (see http://www.campwilliams.com/ ) which still exists and which classifies itself as a resort.

Such camps as one may find in the United States located in somewhat remote locations (such as Camp Williams is) may offer residential rental plots where a mobile trailer or even a cabin is located that one may rent, just as if it were a normal residential rental located within a city (Camp Williams has a mobile home park with units already on it as well as available slots for parking your own mobile home.)

Due to their remote locations and small populations, such camps can provide an environment within which to hide but they also provide an environment within which to re-establish oneself in society, a less populace place to live where you get to have some measure of control over who sees you, who you interact with. Private camps can be populated by people who disdain the “civilized world” and have what might be considered “alternative” modes of life somewhat removed from what society would consider to be “normal.”

There are other advantages about taking up residence in a small camp located otherwise remotely. If you are being sought, strangers who spend a great deal of time in the region are generally noticed, and anyone who talks with residents about you or someone close to your description will be talked about and it’s possible that you will learn of the interest being expressed by said strangers.

The down side to adopting residence in private camps like this is that they do cost money, the amount of which depends upon whether or not the area is favorable and accessible to wealthy people who aren’t trying to disappear in America. In addition to either purchasing the mobile home on existing property, there is also the usual monthly rental fees for parking your mobile home on the property, and of course there’s the utility bill fees that camps may also require you to pay, either metered individually else collectively as part of the plot rental.

Private camps may be sold or they may be otherwise closed and returned to either a State or Federal holding which means that residence in such camps may not be entirely secure. Camp Follows in the Angeles National Forest was sold to a foreign company and in the year 2006 the last of the residents were evicted, putting many people out on the streets (many of whom were then homeless and living out of their cars, prompting an abandoned cat crisis, see http://la.indymedia.org/news/2006/02/147322.php ) for a write-up and photographs of the cat rescue effort.)

When examining a private camp which provides residential housing, you should spend as much time as possible looking the place over, doing feet-on-the-ground research to see whether the camp provides both anonymity and well as an environment for disappearing and, if it is your goal, resurfacing under a new identity.

Note: Doing research on line leaves hints about what you were researching embedded in your web browser disk cache as well as web site log records which can be used to track you down. Feet-on-the-ground research in to a possible camp to disappear to eliminates the electronic trail. Alternatively, deliberately researching hundreds of camps across the United States and pretending to give a dozen or so such camps more focus and return web site visits might conceivably help to throw off the trail to the actual camp you go to.

What about squatting in a State or Federal park or forest?

As mentioned previously, the typical maximum duration stay for visitors to public lands is either one, two, or three weeks, after which the individual is expected to relocate a minimum set distance from the previous camp site, often 50 miles at minimum.

A great many public lands have illegal squatters on them, and law enforcement periodically performs sweeps and evicts such people, often after running them for wants and warrants and searching them and their possessions for contraband. In the Angeles National Forest a hideously filthy pollution problem developed as illegal gold miners squatted along the East Fork Road section of the San Gabriel River, many of them living there for years, many of them under the belief that they could do so after “staking claims” on public land.

There are no legal avenues for people to squat on public property in a National Forest. There are also no legal avenues for people to stake mining claims on public lands in a National Forest. There exist lawful mining of public lands administered by the Bureau of Land Management however one can’t carve out a section of public property, proclaim it belongs to them, and then proceed to live on the public property.

This is important to underscore for two reasons: First off, numerous web sites will tell you that mining on public lands is legal when in fact it may or may not be depending upon the region. Even places where a government agency sells you a mining permit actual mining in that region may be prohibited. If mining is permitted, suction dredging may be prohibited, and in any event living on the property in tents longer than the maximum permissible period of time is always prohibited.

Secondly, living in an illegal mining camp isn’t conducive to either disappearing or to rebuilding a normal or even quasi-normal life. In addition to the periodic narcotics and illegal alien sweeps, a narcotics-heavy existence along a crowded river or stream living in a tent isn’t a fun or comfortable life, it’s just marking time before you die, it’s not disappearing with the goal of resurfacing fresh with a new identity elsewhere. �

Section 18: Internet Research Before You Disappear

An Additional Review of Internet Research Before You Disappear

Most people are now aware that every time they visit a web site, send or receive an email, or do anything else online, an electric record of their activity is made and such information is easily retrieved by law enforcement agencies, often without a subpoena, court order, or warrant.

When you do research online prior to attempting to disappear, you leave behind records which can be used to not only track you down but to indict you if you’re doing research prior to or after the commission of a crime.

In the year 2007, a homicide detective in State other than California contacted The Skeptic Tank by starting from my identity taken from the public domain skeptictank.org registry records which lead the detective to the city I live in where-after he contacted the local Police Department which came to my residence and handed me a business card for the detective asking me to return his call.

When I received the business card and returned the call, I learned that this Vanishing Point web page is used by people who either commit murder else who plan to commit murder, reviewing the web page – at times placing it to paper – as part of their online homework in to such things as how to remove people’s heads and other identifying body parts and research in to how deep various lakes are in the prospective murderer’s region are.

The detective called to ask whether Vanishing Point had been updated since a particular date that he gave me, then he informed me that a man and his lover had murdered the lover’s husband, and one of the many web pages he and the woman had visited was Vanishing Point.

I told the detective that I considered some of the information provided here to be unworkable and I asked him his opinion about the feasibility of any of this information being useful.

He told me that the focus of the web page is not about committing crimes and attempting to avoid prosecution but rather about dropping out and rebuilding one’s life for wholly legitimate reasons, and as such he said he found the information useful and informative, not an impediment to legitimate law enforcement efforts. His opinion, like mine, is mixed.

The point about this section is that there should be no expectation that any of the research that people do on line is private. Even erasing your hard disk drive’s web browser’s cache, even running wipe software to fill erased disk sectors with zeros, even doing your best to eradicate records that you have control over isn’t sufficient to erase all tracks, your Internet Service Provider, your cable company, your email host, the web site servers that you visit, every router, bridge, or hub that retains records may contain traces of your research activities, all of which are easily obtained by law enforcement – or by private investigators who commit crimes by colluding with police to illegally seize such records.

Note: Anonymity proxy servers and other online services that seek to obscure your identity while on line do not provide enough security for hiding your identity and eliminating traceable electronic records. For some measure of on line security, you might research the Tor network (see http://www.torproject.org/ ) �


There are Three Keys to Disappearing

MISINFORMATION is the art of taking every piece of data that exist about you deviating it and destroying it beyond recognition. The purpose for that is when a PI starts searching for you they will have various types of information about you. Be it a credit report, an old address, bank records, etc.

Your home phone number list every call you have ever made over a period of time, your cellular phone as well. Your frequent flyer with an airline lists every trip you logged. Car rental companies keep track of whom you are by your phone number, which leaves a record of every car you rented. Video stores keep your records by phone number, a good skip tracer can do a little social engineering and pretext the store and find various information about you. Your local internet provider lists every website you have surfed.

DISINFORMATION is making the PI’s file thicker disinformation has three parts, Hook – Line & Sinker. The hook is to bring a PI into an area of choosing and have them start searching for the subject. The line is having them find information about my subject. The sinker is having the PI believe they are on the trail of my subject and keep trying to reel them in.

Disinformation is my favorite part when it comes to teaching someone how to disappear. To me it is the sneaky aspect of leaving the breadcrumbs for the PI to find or who ever is looking for my subject. Disinformation makes the file thick and eventually causes mass confusion.

REFORMATION is the action of taking my client from point A to point B. Our goal is to be confident that who ever is searching for my client does not find them. Before I work with a client a few things I need to know, one being are they staying in the country or not.

If I am working with a client who is looking to go offshore, I need to know how THEY plan to expatriate their money. I am not an attorney nor an accountant so I do not give advice in those matters. I am very cautious in this area since there is a lot of legality and I do not want to aid anybody in money laundering.



Author: J. Croft @ http://www.freedomguide.blogspot.com/
This article will start off assuming that the Reader (you) is already subject to MARTIAL LAW; that is, the “suspension” of the Constitution. Curfews, rationing of basic goods, enforced relocations, confiscation of firearms and supplies, and summary arrest/execution by soldiers, paramilitary police and other jack booted chumps in black wielding assault rifles. Basic survival tips will be followed by more detailed ideals on how to counter this coup against the population. The remainder will apply IF you’re reading this before MARTIAL LAW is imposed by the current corrupt government. IF you are reading this while you still nominally under Constitutional Law, it’s urgent you read from the beginning to end so as to appreciate the opportunities you currently have to not only protect yourself and yours, but to attempt to stop a coup.�


Rule #1�
Never take the government’s word at face value-except when they tell you that they’ll kill you.�

Government-it’s components of career politicians, bureaucratic vermin, and SS ninja wannabes live, have lied. For a lot longer than you’d think. It’s the very job; being part of an empire wrapped in the cloak of American political traditions of Freedom, that corrupts. All that power, attracting the most venal along with the most patriotic to defend America. All that license under ever mutable law written by money whores to lie, steal, embezzle, blackmail, extort, poison, torture, enslave, murder. Is it any wonder then that such human scum would get together and work “the system” to set themselves up as kings, dispensing with the pretty coverings of Constitutional limitations that trip their crimes like a prom dress? Taking as much as they can, while keeping YOU ASLEEP AS YOU LET YOURSELF BE SEDUCED AND PUT ASLEEP BY THEIR FELLOW TRAVELLERS IN THE MEDIA AND CORPORATE BOARDS? Yes: a lot of the blame can be laid on your shoulders, American. You dropped the ball with going along with not finding the truth about JFK’s assassination. Dropped the ball with MLK, RFK, Malcolm X. Dropped the ball with Vietnam, the air trafficker’s strike that Reagan crushed, Iran-Contra. Dropped the ball with the 92 election-picking that drug runner and murderer Bill Clinton because he was charming… like a pimp. And boy did he pimp you out at the expense of Randy Weaver and his family, the 81 casualties at Waco, the peoples of the former Yugoslavia. You were too busy following Michael Jordan and watching Friends. Then you assholes really dropped it when George W. Bush STOLE the Presidency, with the media not even allowing a Ross Perot to run. If you would’ve elected him in 1992 in fact America could’ve been saved. BUT, you’d rather take government careerists at their word and plan your next outing to the mall than save your nation. Save your jobs, your freedoms, YOUR government. Now it’s gone. The criminals that have systematically taken over YOUR government they’ve removed the last vestiges of Constitutional law. Now its law by the barrels of their assault rifles in your face-do ANYTHING other than obey in utter fear and you’re dead. Or worse. You listened to their lies for over a century, you and your ancestors-where has it gotten you? Don’t take their word on any “news” they have. Nor take their advice, their “assistance” their laws at face value because they manipulate everything they do to screw you. What you can take their word on is, if you DON’T go along with them screwing you, they’ll kill you for it.�

Rule #2�

Do NOT tell anyone anything that could get you in trouble. Assume anything can get you in trouble, because it probably will. Especially with any government official, but anyone looking to gaining a favor with the state can and will snitch on you. The rat who would sell you out for his thirty pieces could be: *A small businessman looking for an in with the state so he can make money a little easier. *A former friend who’s looking to get some revenge. *Someone desperate for even some food. Times are tough and will get tougher. Again, KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT! Review the remaining rules of surviving MARTIAL LAW with Rule #2 ALWAYS in mind. Because some rat on two legs you say the wrong thing to WILL snitch to the “authorities” in exchange for favors or even brownie points… and then you get to find out how ironclad Rule #1 is. KEEP YOUR BIG MOUTH SHUT!!�

Rule #3�

Unless you are waging a war of liberation-gathering intelligence or spreading disinformation or infiltrating-have no relation with nor voluntary contact with any soldier, police officer, bureaucrat, or anyone in authority in private life cooperating with MARTIAL LAW. Review Rule #1: they’re all liars, con artists, hustlers, thieves, and murderers. Same goes to any fellow travelers in big business; they and government have been in the same bed for a century. Stay away from them as much as possible. Tell them lies. Don’t do any business with them. Unless they’re sticking a gun in your face don’t even acknowledge that they exist. Shun them, their family and any sycophants that fawn over them for a few favors.�

Rule #4�

If you’re prohibited from having an item that helps you survive, get the item, and review Rule #2 AND KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT. If you’re prohibited from having extra food, medicine, guns (no brainer) then you will CACHE your prohibited items in a place where it won’t easily be found. Foods, after properly sealed for storage and medicines can be placed in hollow spaces in walls, floorboards, stairs, behind false walls in closets, or even in a hidden underground pantry dug underneath your foundation or basement. Firearms are metallic; they can be detected by metal detectors unless you store them deep underground or in a place they won’t think of looking right away… like sealed in wider metallic tubes, or away from your property. And if you by chance acquire or keep firearms knowing HOW TO USE THEM (sight alignment, trigger squeeze) and RELOADING AMMUNITION will be mandatory. Dry firing a empty gun at a target is one way to practice. Even better is getting an air gun, paint some targets on a sheet of paper and going at it until you can aim and land every round in the black as fast as possible.)�

Rule #5�
While keeping the above rules in mind ALWAYS HELP OUT THOSE WHO ARE RESISTING!�

They, unlike you, have decided that there’s nothing to lose and therefore deserve anyone’s help who’s willing to risk their lives. You think MARTIAL LAW is going away on it’s own? Those bastards in black will have a sudden change of heart and do something worthwhile for a change and not oppress you? I like to dream too… The VERY LEAST: have extra food, water for resistance fighters, basic medical supplies, ammo caches (hint, these should be concealed). A secret room either built from some closet space or under the home can house a couple of fighting Patriots. Those who fight will need to keep hidden, yet able to communicate with fellow fighters. You can be a intermediary. You have skills, like welding, machine tools, chemistry? You can take that secret room and make weapons, ammo, other things the resistance needs. You have inside information? Share it. You have videographer experience, tools? Make how-to videos on resisting the theft of your freedoms. You have medical training? Set up a underground hospital. Not all Patriots can or should pick up a rifle and blow a traitor’s head off. Riflemen need ammo, food, a place to rest, medical assistance, repairs for their weapons, intel on their next target. Most of all they and you need each other because a man alone doesn’t stand a chance. Only by uniting in common cause with all one has to offer can the traitors be defeated, and Freedom restored to the land. … If you’re not at least giving aid to those helping to liberate you put this article down, go back to being a victim of government oppression; maybe you can get by being a pathetic lackey they’ll thieve from and occasionally beat or take sex from.�

Rule #6�
With the utmost care develop a SURVIVAL NETWORK.�

This is a group of people with skills and/or resources who can help each other in areas they would be lacking on their own. It could be anything from extra food, medicine, repair parts, fuel, and transportation-whatever. In any given neighborhood you can have machinists (weapon makers), medical personnel, drivers (good knowledge of local roads), and gardeners (agriculture knowledgebase). Petty bureaucrats secretly opposing martial law are prime candidates to spy, steal, or commit sabotage. Computer technicians can hack government systems and create surveillance systems and guidance packages for missiles. Construction workers can build secret rooms to hide anything from a arms cache to a secret factory. People in the media can smuggle cameras and work with computer techs to: bug enemy meetings, produce freedom media that documents successful means of resisting and present government atrocities for the reasons why. Salesmen can “borrow” merchandise from their stores for use-anything and everything is useful. Especially useful will be disgruntled cops and military who can provide everything from intel on raids to weapons to training. Keep the numbers of your group “small”: smaller cells are more difficult to penetrate by enemy agents and professional snitches. Keeping that in mind, a means of communication independent from wiretapped phones and audible eavesdropping devices must be developed amongst you. Runners can be a athlete or a kid on a bike. They can carry small packages, or notes with a handy breakable vial of flammable liquid if discovered. With a sealed packet of potassium chlorate taped to it the gasoline(preferable) will automatically ignite; otherwise you’ll have to actually light that incriminating evidence. A mail drop can be a home, a hollowed out tree trunk, a hole in the ground, a open fence pole-anything. Just be sure it’s discreetly out of sight of surveillance. If God’s really liking you, one of your group will be a SMART SURVIVALIST. This will be a exceedingly rare breed, because most in this group were smart enough to begin preparing for the collapse to begin with. They WEREN’T smart enough to avoid detection of their awareness and distrust of government. They signed form 4477 registration forms for their firearms, used credit cards and checks for their weapon and ammunition purchases, registered for weapons permits, or registered themselves with gun clubs and shooting organizations. These people more than likely got swept up in pre-dawn raids or got blasted resisting. No the SMART SURVIVALIST prepared-and kept his mouth shut about those preps. He or she never signed federal permit forms for purchases or carry license. He or she presented a “average American” profile or totally disappeared. Get or find one in your group and you’ll have a literal treasury of knowhow and resources to survive… maybe even start taking back a little?�

Rule #7�

Know where the cameras are and how to avoid them. Know who patrols where, and what routine they follow so as to avoid contact. Know your snitches and always feed them b.s. if you can’t avoid them. Find ways around checkpoints. Side streets, forest paths, neighbor’s yard, railroad tracks, tunnels; whatever go arounds to getting from point a to point b without a pack of government troops searching you, checking your ID. I can’t and won’t go into detail; how you find your ways is up to you.�

Rule #8�

It could be from a disaster, a attack, or even because they’ve decided to end the pretense and show you what they really think of you and your “rights”. You’ll just wind up in a detention camp where your freedom of movement and resources will be strictly controlled. That means having a place to go away from your area, a means to get there, and supplies. Very difficult to do in a martial law situation, with shortages and rationing at gunpoint. Remember the victims of Hurricane Katrina; how they were set up to be stranded in New Orleans by the government? How they were constantly baited with false hope of rescue for a week after the catastrophe? How they eventually were herded by FEMA into concentration camps? You disregard Rule #1, you’ll find out. Get a safe house of your own-a friend or a abandoned home, a empty storefront or even a patch of woods. When the troops start going street to street, house to house have escape routes by lesser used streets, trails, whatever. You may have to go on foot, so have a light backpack with a few days worth of nonperishable food, portable water purifier, a first aid kit, a light sleeping bag-and your weapon. A mountain bike may be a more optimal and versatile escape mode than your road-dependent car. Better to be on the run, desperate-and have your freedom-than be imprisoned in a FEMA slave camp.�

Rule #9�
Find a way you can successfully resist.�

Probably not with guns or bombs unless you have the training, but there’s plenty of ways you can monkey-wrench the basic functioning of the state during MARTIAL LAW. If you work for the state you have plenty of opportunities to mess things up, but even private firms are subcontracted by the government. You know who’s just earning a paycheck, who’s backing this war against the people, and who’s getting off on “just following orders”. If you can take action, great; concentrate most of your planning on getting away with the job. Otherwise, get contacts with Patriots and be the most reliable source of intelligence you can be. Every bit of drag on the government beast helps-perhaps in botching that paperwork, breaking that surveillance camera in disguise, or misdirecting that bureaucrat or soldier cop that act might be the beginning of a butterfly effect of bringing down the state of MARTIAL LAW and restoring Freedom to our nation. Always keep that in mind. You must find your own way, but find it you must if you want what was stolen from you back.�


To be honest it’s probably the most difficult challenge anyone can face. Because you’re starting a conflict from scratch inside the belly of the beast. You can’t fight for territory when you’ve only got a few guns against divisions of enemy troops equipped with automatic weapons, armor, air support, the pitiful acquiescence of a “people” who long ago gave up Liberty for the trap of existence of a childlike, cushy debt slavery.�

So the smart coup leaders that prosecute a martial law takeover will do it against a population that’s already been pacified in one way or another. Now with the gilding stripped off their chains they’re as frightened hostages willing to go along with ANYTHING massah state wants so long as they have some semblance of their former “lives”. Aside from sickened, disgruntled vets, the American People; untrained in the military arts or even basic survival have been pacified-or the coup would never have taken place.�

It is simply fear of loss after being so coddled, so divorced as a culture from personal responsibility -although enough exposure to fear and the human psyche has a way of becoming psychologically inured to it… which can lead to anger, and then revenge.�

No: better way to pacify is to bring it on in a overwhelming torrent onto a population unprepared for it, unprepared for hardships. Take away their culture, their moral cores, their connections to God. Ply them with trinkets and baubles and other junk-get them to find solace in material things, in distractions like spectator sports, television. “Our” junk culture.�

Keep them hypnotized by a junk culture while their means of sustenance-their jobs-are shipped overseas piecemeal, so they don’t wake up.�

Keep them hypnotized by a junk culture while their rights are legislated into impotence, irrelevance to the state’s enforcers.�

Keep them hypnotized by a junk culture, as even the know how of being able to survive outside the system; basics like growing food, repairing stuff, marksmanship is slowly stifled.�

And all the time tell them they’re free and prosperous. Eventually you’ll have a people much like modern America’s dumbed down materialistic debt slave. Such a people as ours, fed lies about our evil corrupt system as you find on TV are ready for a fall now as I write this. All that’s needed is a plausible pretext, a cover story for the sheeple to accept the loss of their freedom in exchange for a impression of security in a land where the plenty of food and goods has been taken away.�

Now some will see through the b.s.; but Humans can be stubbornly stupid when it comes to misdirected hope. These slaves, in every sense of the word, will actually defend the system that has enslaved them. Such is the enemy’s genius at their social engineering. All those slavishly obeying the state in a martial law environment for some forlorn hope that their lives will somehow go back to the false paradise of the late 20th century will in effect be the enemy themselves.�

You won’t be alone. The enemy’s genius is formidable, but not perfect. Quite frankly they’re overconfident-and even if they weren’t they’re not God. They can’t see all and will make fatal mistakes. The question will be, will you be man enough to exploit those mistakes to bring their downfall and save the Human Race?�

How to beat the state when it has all the cards; can’t take on an army with a pistol… but you can take on one of it’s soldiers when you sneak up on him when they’re not looking for it. If you’re skilled with a rifle you can kill at distance and sneak off… if you have a suppressor on your weapon you can do a whole lot of killing and not be detected. If you know chemistry, you can come up with all sorts of nasty stuff that can do damage to the enemy’s expensive stuff.�

If you have friends or fellow travelers you can do a lot more damage, even recruit if you have a video camera, editing system, and dvd duplicators(get someone skilled in video production) to advertise your victories and how others can duplicate your efforts, plus why they should fight in the first place.�

If you’re successful your area of operations will be overflowing with Patriots looking to bag as many jack booted thugs, bureaucrats and other traitors as they can get at. The excess Patriots can then spread out to other areas of our country, replicating as best they can what you’ve done.�

With whole regions of the country infiltrated and secured secret industry can develop. Light weapons can be constructed at first, but eventually heavy weapons will be designed and made, and distributed. Ammunition, food, fuel, medicine-all can be manufactured on or made with basic machine tools and chemistry.�

The time will come… if the enemy still clings to their forlorn hope of defeating the American People with the brainless thugs and sheeple that lick their boots… the time will come that OPEN WARFARE can begin and territory openly liberated. After that… it’ll probably devolve into a stalemate. The enemy isolated in their city/prison states unable to retake the surrounding countryside, but the Patriots not having enough strength to retake the cities. Or perhaps enough time because either the enemy develops some funky new super weapon or their continued control of military assets overseas causes a outside power to intervene… on whose side… who knows?�


Because a MARTIAL LAW will lead to CIVIL WAR… and national destruction… what I just described to you.�

Let’s NOT have a civil war, and spend the next century rebuilding. Much better to organize right now, as I write in October, 2005! We still have a political process we can use if we learn how to use it effectively. We can together find a small town and take it over-like the Libertarian’s Free State Projects, only focused onto one town. Take that over, free it, and spread out from there. We as Americans need a standing example of what a Free State is; since we don’t have the numbers to take over a state, we have to take over a town… so we can get the numbers to take over a state.�

Even some in the traitorous elite don’t want to see MARTIAL LAW because they recognize the exquisite control and enslavement the current American political system has over Americans, and want to keep their power. They can be used and then abused.�

Individually, if you have guns, bury spares of your fighting arms, or sell them privately to new Patriot recruits. This will get easier as deteriorating conditions bring the reality of our situation home, and the government’s conduct in New Orleans make personal preparation a priority.�

Buy lots of ammo, food, medicine, and reloading supplies. Get these at gun shows for CASH ONLY. Go to gun shows while they’re still legal!�

Find books on basic manufacturing processes-that’s vital!�

If you have EVER joined a gun group, bought guns and ammo with credit cards, checks, and/or signed registration forms and permits HIDE AND/OR SELL YOUR EXCESS GUNS TO MOTIVATED PATRIOTS! You WILL be searched first on “The Day”, and if so much as a empty shell casing’s found you can count on being starved, beaten and raped to death in a internment camp. Or maybe they’ll take you anyway for being on record.�

Start driving around: look for abandoned homes, businesses, and roads or trails that’ll get you to them. Caves, forest haunts, old barns, the nastiest trailer in that tired old trailer park.�

When you recruit, don’t let them put their names on any forms that could implicate them in the eyes of the government. Keep their profile low, Patriots will need infiltrators, safe houses and spies… can’t do that if you’re still running around openly displaying a “I’m the NRA” sticker or a Gadsden Flag. Sorry.�

Take your Recruits and:�
*Toughen them up. Camping, survival courses, hand to hand combat courses. Even getting them to let their TV gather dust to do… anything will be of benefit. Demonstrations, projects, meetings, find places to hole up like anything without people around…�

*Shooting, and lots of it! Paintball to teach tactics. A range of some sort for battle rifle practice. Airguns and required turning in of targets for their own practice-the airsoft guns are coming along as viable training tools and as soon as they perfect a paintball that’ll cycle through them you should splurge a couple hundred bucks and get some guns and paintballs.�

*Group buy ammo, parts, food, knowledge, a legal fiction to acquire property not under your own name, nor any connection to you. Have your stashes in several small units throughout the area you figure you’re going to operate. The more the better, and, no one person should have knowledge of where all the caches are at. A cache should have ammo for the standard weapon/caliber your group should standardize on. I recommend a military pattern rifle in 7.62NATO, along with spare parts because they’ll break down with all the shooting and abuse you’re gonna heap on them. Enough ammo to refill all your carry mags for a mission. Also, nonperishable food. Should have lots of calories, carbs, and protein. Medical supplies. …�

No you’re not going to get a lot of recruits. The enemy’s cultural weapons are pretty damn powerful, and their mind control of Americans is exquisite-but not foolproof! On occasion a event will occur that will defy their spin control and b.s.-like the live coverage of Hurricane Katrina and their criminal abandonment of the Black Community to die in that open sewer so they’ll abandon the city to foreclosers wanting a “Las Vegas on the Gulf”. Point out the criminal abandonment of the government of their People. A lot of eyes were opened by that hurricane, and not all of them are going to shut again by the system’s lies. Take your opportunities as they come.�

I have a plan of peaceful political action that can be used, so here’s a excerpt of my essay, “Message to Mr. and Mrs. America” at my blog freedomguide.blogspot.com:�

Taking back the government-peacefully!�

This is the preferable manner of us as groups reclaiming our Freedom. To be effective, one must have a understanding of America’s political system as it relates to our cause. We have a president, a vice-president and their agents, a congress, a federal judicial system, and the duplication of this political layout among the states. Beyond that you have the many thousands of county and local governments. So what will work?�

Take over the presidency?�

It’s long been proven that unless you have the blessings of the two official parties of this nation, you cannot seriously run for president. The closest independent candidate was Ross Perot back in 1992, and even being a billionaire didn’t shield him from getting shredded by the media.�

So, assuming the voting machines are honest (not) and the media’s fair (not) you need the machine of a major party backing you (won’t happen).�

And the president can only do so much; America’s system of government is extremely compartmentalized, so that unless you have a common ideology and party mechanism guiding and controlling the various components, it’s impossible for one man to dictate policy. So a independent party president, one lone person against the rest of the hydra headed federal monstrosity is not only impossible, it’s retarded even planning such a thing.�


Congress is made up of 540 members-100 senators and the rest in the house of representatives. All are elected in staggered election cycles so it would take approximately a decade of successful nationwide campaigning to create a majority party. Yes, congress writes the laws and taking it back is essential in our struggle, but even factoring out the two official parties and their political machines the structure of this body demands a massive political machine of our own.�

Massive organizations that have a hierarchical structure have been penetrated, subverted and corrupted by our enemies since the beginning of time. It’s a process that to them is a natural as breathing. Then there’s all the fundraising that will be needed and we’re not rich-the only ones with money in America are the same pack of vampires who’ve been sucking us dry. So a singular, national organization will not be successful.�

Independent and rogue candidates however do have some success. Bernie Sanders of Vermont, Tom Tancredo of Colorado, Ron Paul of Texas, and at one time James Trafficant of Ohio sadly represent the successes. Most candidates are attorneys who’ve long ago prostituted themselves. They whore themselves to the political machine that will take them where they want to go. All they want is power and in exchange have legislated the monstrosity American government has become. The democrats and republicans, their bosses for all practical purposes appoint these elitists their congressional seats and they’re prepared to spend whatever cash it takes to take or retain that seat. Vote fraud of course is part of their arsenal.�

There are no rich left in these times who would willingly sacrifice their lives, their fortunes and their sacred honor-they’re either sold out or scared. So any candidates for congress will have to be raised and funded by us. That means we have to do it in a grass roots manner. We have to build not one political machine, but a army of political machines that are independent of one another, yet cooperative.�

Many small parties, one common agenda.�

This form of political resistance lends itself naturally to our groups. It will go like this:�

The group helps other groups form. They in turn during the next local election cycle turn out and get the candidates they choose elected in town and county governments. Much of the oppressive laws plaguing us are drafted and enforced locally. Taking over local governments will not only give the freedom groups relief from local law enforcement harassment, it will give us the tools to revoke and repeal such things as:�

Property taxes that allow the government to seize that home you’re working a lifetime to pay for if you miss one “rent” installment. Those in power whine that property taxes are for the schools and the children-isn’t that what their gambling rackets known as the lotto are for? And they’re willing to make you and yours homeless for the children… such evil makes me just want to shoot them. But let’s try not to go there yet.�

All those damned zoning restrictions, regulations, speed trap traffic laws designed to churn up “tax” revenue, laws criminalizing all sorts of things and actions that bother nobody. Think of any local ordinance that seems to have been drafted by a neurotic control freak… the list would be endless really!�

Un-Constitutional, pro criminal gun control legislation. A big part of their program’s disarming us so that we’re helpless and have to rely on them exclusively for protection, establishing dependence. Not that the cops are legally obligated to your personal protection of course.�

Anything that pledges cooperation with state and federal authorities, at least until we take our nation back!�

Another book recommendation: HOW TO WIN A LOCAL ELECTION. Should be in your local bookstore.�

When we take back a local government and bring that jurisdiction back into line with the classic tenants of American government, it will be a beacon of light, an example of successful peaceful resistance. It will immediately inspire and launch similar efforts in neighboring communities. Each composed of small, decentralized groups working together on the big problem, so that one day they can afford to bicker on the small stuff-that the Libertarians, Constitutionalists, Christian Patriots and Conservatives currently do. So together, with control of enough cities and townships, the combined efforts of those groups can take over counties. With control of enough counties, an entire state can be taken over by our groups.�

Why take that next step? The list of things we can do when we take back our local governments is vast, but then there would be the call to centralize governmental control with state and federal authorities. So when this begins we must be as aggressive as possible-being examples to others, advising, and most importantly WE MUST NOT FIGHT AMONGST OURSELVES OVER STUFF WE CAN DEBATE AFTER WE RETAKE OUR LAND! Backbiting will be exploited by our enemies; it will be our biggest downfall.�

And if we can take the nation back…�

There are many things we must do immediately, as soon as we can take back control of America’s destiny.�

(1)Secure our borders from any further infiltration. Whatever that takes, whatever manpower’s available, we must find a way to seal up thousands of miles of hinterland border, and many thousands of miles more of coastline. This will take bringing our troops and ships home, and in effect end America’s era of being used as a tool of global empire. It will be good, as being number one just makes you the one everyone else wants to take out.�

At the same time, a heightened state of alert must be maintained if another power were to take advantage of our transitional phase and attempt some economic or military adventure against our interests. America will be painfully contracting from it’s global economic empire as we attempt to revive a self-sufficient free republic and the last thing we’ll need is for Muslims seeking revenge against the Empire, or China rolling the dice on a military adventure against us.�

(2)Impose a flexible series of tariffs so that no matter where on Earth a imported good is made, it’s cost after going through customs is just a few percent more than one made in America-with all the taxes still imposed. This must be implemented by law for I’d calculate twenty years; because this is the minimum time required to rebuild America’s manufacturing economy. The rest of the world’s just going to have to learn to live economically without the American consumer, and the American consumer is going to have to learn basic economics. It will be a horrifically shocking adjustment, and lead to a economic collapse-of the mega corporations. It’s the bitterest medicine, but America and Americans have become almost terminally sick with the current system imposed upon us and those that don’t immediately take steps to save themselves will need some hard lessons quick to bring them back to reality.�


Most important thing you can do? Pray. I’m serious. Don’t do it in some gay mega-church and tithe to some blow-dried huckster-do it like Jesus taught. Find a quiet place, quiet your mind, and open your heart. God WILL talk to you , or at least convey some feeling. You can’t listen because you’re out of practice listening so, practice. Eventually God will talk to you, and it’s in your best interest to listen because God does love you!�

He isn’t looking to burn you for eternity for your petty imperfections. He’s looking to liberate His People-all of us. Can’t liberate a people if they’re dead from some “bible prophecy” going on as scripted: wouldn’t the events of Revelation carried out as written be a victory for the devil… wanting to possess and destroy? Humanity’s all but destroyed in the end of that book. Why not fight to derail that outcome?�

The following guide will help you plan, prepare, and get ready in the event that martial law threatens you safety and well being. It is divided into two parts. The first part describes the framework for martial law and the second part the actions to take in preparing for the actual declaration of martial law.


  • Martial law is defined as: military rule or authority imposed on a civilian population when the civil authorities cannot maintain law and order, as in a time of war or during an emergency.
  • Hitler turned Germany into a Nazi dictatorship through executive orders.
  • All communications media are to be seized by the Federal Government. Radio, TV, newspapers, CB, Ham, telephones, and the internet will be under federal control. Hence, the First Amendment will be suspended indefinitely.
  • All electrical power, fuels, and all minerals well be seized by the federal government.
  • All food resources, farms and farm equipment will be seized by the government. You will not be allowed to hoard food since this is regulated.
  • All modes of transportation will go into government control. Any vehicle can be seized.
  • All civilians can be used for work under federal supervision.
  • Establishes presidential control over all US citizens, businesses, and churches in time of “emergency.”
  • Directs various Cabinet officials to be constantly ready to take over virtually all aspects of the US economy during a State of National Emergency at the direction of the president.
  • Directs FEMA to take control over all government agencies in time of emergency. FEMA is under control of executive branch of the government.
  • “ASSIGNMENT OF EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS RESPONSIBILITIES”, “A national emergency is any occurrence, including natural disaster, military attack, technological emergency, or other emergency that seriously degrades or seriously threatens the national security of the United States. Policy for national security emergency preparedness shall be established by the President.” This order includes federal takeover of all local law enforcement agencies, wage and price controls, prohibits you from moving assets in or out of the United States, creates a draft, controls all travel in and out of the United States, and much more.
  • Martial law can be declared due to natural disasters, Y2k Crisis, Stock Market crash, no electricity, riots, biological attack, …. anything leading to the breakdown of law and order.


  • Prepare before any declaration of martial law by becoming self reliant. You may become subject to a bureaucratic system and be prepared to stay one step ahead of it which is easy to do if you are prepared and in a position to be self reliant. You may also face mob rule, chaos, panic, or a complete breakdown in law and order. Surival situations may be easier to handle in rural areas than urban.
  • Avoid areas of marital law. Can be imposed due to natural disasters or man caused events. Important to have a retreat or place in a rural area away from populated areas.
  • Create alliances with like minded neighbors or community members that share your views. Team work and numbers may help your situation.
  • Become transparent in the sense that you do not draw attention to yourself or your family. For instance, do not tell people that you are storing food just store food. Be prepared to render assistance to neighbors if need be. You never know when you will need them.
  • Remain calm! Do not panic.
  • Avoid areas of civil unrest if possible. If caught in civil unrest take appropriate action.
  • Get informed and stay informed. Understand martial law can be a temporary crisis or an extended one. In extreme cases the shape of a whole nation can change.
  • Declaration of martial law means your rights are suspended and it is government by decree. Your constitutional rights may no longer apply. This could mean a state of National Emergency.
  • People can be arrested and imprisoned indefinitely without charges.
  • Freedom of speech and freedom of assembly can be suspended, and censorship of the media imposed.
  • Gun ownership will also come under severe attack during marital law. We could see house to house searches by the military or National Guard looking for guns and seizing any they find along with stored food.
  • Take a stand on issues and make a choice that fits your beliefs and the situation. Do you believe as Patrick Henry, “Give me liberty or give me death?” Realize you may have some hard choices to make. Understand you may have to sacrifice your principles on trivial matters or take a hard stand. Always remember that you may have to come back and fight another day.


Backpack Survival


There’s a lot of confusion about what survival means.

To some, it’s getting through the aftermath of an airplane wreck in a desolate area. It can mean knowing when to avoid walking in radioactive wastes. Or, it can mean knowing how to barter with troops in the aftermath of riots, war, and looting.

To others, survival has to do with avoiding danger and knowing how to deal with it when it breaks into your home in the dead of night.

Survival ideas abound and there are as many definitions and strategies as there are survivalists. Some have good ideas for survival and some have unsound tactics. Bad ideas can mean extra work or trouble in everyday life; bad ideas during a survival situation get you killed. On-the-job training doesn’t work when you’re dealing with poison and gunfights.

Or survival.

One of the most dangerous ideas–as far as I’m concerned–is that of “backpack survival.”

A “back-pack survivalist” is a survivalist that plans on leaving his home ahead of a disaster and taking to the woods with only what he can carry out with him. He plans to survive through a strategy that is a sort of cross between the Boy-Scout-in-the-woods and Robinson Crusoe.

The backpack survival- ist plans on outrunning danger with a four-wheel drive or a motorcycle and hopes to travel light with a survival kit of everything he might need to cope with the unexpected. He hasn’t cached anything in the area he’s headed for because, chances are, he doesn’t know where he’s headed. Somehow, he hopes to overcome all odds with a minimum of supplies and a maximum of smarts.

Certainly it is a noble cause; but it seems like one destined to failure. And that’s not survival.

(Let’s back up a minute. Backpack fever–or bug-outosis–does makes sense when you’re facing a localized disaster like a derailed train with overturned poisonous gas cars. A a potential nuclear meltdown, an impending hurricane, or similar disasters where there is a safe place to run to. During such a time, it makes perfect sense to retreat and come back when things settle down.

Likewise, some people have to work in dangerous areas. For them, donning a backpack and heading for a retreat that they’ve prepared before hand is a viable survival strategy. These people aren’t backpack survivalists.)

Let me make a confession. Yes, I once was a closet backpack survivalist. I had an ALICE pack and had it packed with all I could carry. As I learned more about how to survive, I realized I needed to carry more. Soon I discover- ed that, just for my family to survive for a very few days, I’d need a pack mule and/or a hernia operation…

Something was very wrong.

Probably most survivalists start out the same way. Things are bad so let’s bug out. Backpack survivalism is an effort to deal with the possibility of a major disaster.

As backpack survivalists, we make elaborate plans centered around the idea of “bugging out” of the area we live in.

We hope to travel to an area that is safer than the one we’re in and plan on living off the land or on some survival supplies we’ve hidden in the area. On the home front, we carefully prepare a stock of supplies that we can quickly cart off in a car or van when things start to look bad.

As more and more plans are made and as ever more survival gear is purchased, the survivalist realizes just how much he needs to cope with in order to survive. If he is any sort of realist, he soon amasses enough gear to warrant a truck or–more likely–a moving van just for carrying the survival equipment. (And don’t laugh, there are survivalists who have large trucks for just such use.)

Some brave souls continue to make more elaborate plans and some of these survivalists may be able to pull off their plans. Those who have really thought things out and have spared no expenses may manage to survive with a bug-out strategy. But I think there are more logical–and less expensive–ways to survive a large crisis.

Forget all your preconceived notions for a minute.

Imagine that there is a national emergency and you are an outside observ- er? What happens if a nuclear attack is eminent, an economic collapse has occurred, or a dictator has taken over and is ready to round up all malcontents (with survivalists at the top of the list)?

Situations change with time. The survivalist movement–and backpack fever–first started up when gas guzzler cars were about all that anyone drove. That meant that a survivalist with some spare gasoline could outdis- tance his unprepared peers and get to a retreat that was far from the maddening crowd, as it were. (Read some of Mel Tappan’s early writing on survival retreats. His ideas are good but many have been undone with the new, fuel-ef- ficient cars.)

With cars getting 30 or even 40 miles per gallon, it isn’t rare for a car to be able to travel half way across a state on less than a tank of gasoline. The exodus from cities or trouble spots will be more limited by traffic snarls than lack of gasoline even if the gas stations are completely devoid of their liquid fuel.

Too, there are a lot of people thinking about what to do if the time for fleeing comes. A lot of people will be headed for the same spots. (Don’t laugh that off, either. In my area, every eighth person has confided his secret retreat spot to me. And about half of them are all headed for the same spot: an old missile silo devoid of water and food. I suspect that the battle at the gates of the old missile base will rival the Little Big Horn.)

No matter how out-of-the-way their destination, most survivalists are kidding themselves if they think others won’t be headed for their hideaway spot along with them. There are few places in the US which aren’t accessible to anyone with a little driving skill and a good map.

Too, there are few places which aren’t in grave danger during a nuclear war or national social unrest.

Though most nuclear war survival books can give you a nice little map showing likely targets, they don’t tell you some essential information. Like what the purpose of the attack will be. The enemy may not be aiming for military targets that day; a blackmail threat might begin by hitting the heart of the farmland or a number of cities before demanding the surrender of the country being attacked. The target areas on the maps might be quite safe.

And the maps show where the missiles land IF they all enjoy 100 percent accuracy and reliability. Anyone know of such conditions in war? With Soviet machinery!? Targets may be relatively safe places to be in.

Added to this is the fact that some areas can be heavily contaminated or completely free of contamination depending on the wind directions in the upper atmosphere. Crystal ball in your survival gear?

But let’s ignore all the facts thus far for a few moments and assume that a backpack survivalist has found an ideal retreat and is planning to go there in the event of a national disaster… What next?

His first concern should be that he’ll have a hard time taking the supplies he needs with him. A nuclear war might mean that it will be impos- sible to grow food for at least a year and foraging is out as well since animals and plants may be contaminated extensively.

An economic collapse wouldn’t be much better. It might discourage the raising of crops; no money, no sales except for the barter to keep a small farm family going.

With large corporations doing much of our farming these days, it is not unreasonable to expect a major famine coming on the heals of an economic collapse. Raising food would be a good way to attract starving looters from miles around.

Ever try to pack a year’s supply of food for a family into a small van or car? There isn’t much room left over. But the backpack survivalist needs more than just food.

If he lives in a cold climate (or thinks there might be something to the nuclear winter theory) then he’ll need some heavy clothing.

Rifles, medicine, ammunition, tools, and other supplies will also increase what he’ll need to be taking or which he’ll have to hide away at his retreat site.

Shelter? Building a place to live (in any style other than early-American caveman) takes time. If he builds a cabin beforehand, he may find it vandal- ized or occupied when he gets to his retreat; if he doesn’t build it before- hand, he may have to live in his vehicle or a primitive shelter of some sort.

Thus, a major problem is to get a large enough vehicle to carry everything he needs as well as to live in.

History has shown that cities empty themselves without official evacuation orders when things look bad. It happened in WW II and has even happened in the US during approaching hurricanes, large urban fires, and nuclear reactor problems.

So there’s a major problem of timing which the backpack survivalist must contend with. He has to be packed and ready to go with all members of his family at the precise moment he learns of the disaster! The warning he gets that warrants evacuating an area will have to be acted on quickly if he’s to get out ahead of the major traffic snarls that will quickly develop. A spouse at work or shopping or kids across town at school means he’ll either have to leave them behind or be trapped in the area he’s in. A choice not worth having to make.

Unless he’s got a hot-line from the White House, the backpack survivalist will not hear the bad news much ahead of everyone else. If he doesn’t act immediately, he’ll be trapped out on the road and get a first-hand idea of what grid-lock is like if he’s in an urban area. Even out on the open road, far away from a city, an interstate can become hectic following a ballgame… Imagine what it would be like if everyone were driving for their lives, some cars were running out of fuel (and the occupants trying to stop someone for a ride), and the traffic laws were being totally ignored while the highway patrol tried to escape along with everyone else. Just trying to get off or on major highways might become impossible. If things bog down, how long can the backpack survivalist keep those around from helping to unload his truck-load of supplies that they’ll be in bad need of?

Telling them they should have prepared ahead of time won’t get many sympathetic words.

Even on lightly-traveled roadways, how safe would it be to drive around in a vehicle loaded with supplies? Our backpack survivalist will need to defend himself.

But let’s suppose that he’s thought all this out. He has a large van, had the supplies loaded in it, managed to round every member of his family up beforehand, somehow got out of his area ahead of the mob, is armed to the teeth, and doesn’t need to take an interstate route.

When he reaches his destination, his troubles are far from over.

The gridlock and traffic snarls won’t stop everyone. People will slowly be coming out of heavily populated areas and most of them will have few supplies.

They will have weapons (guns are one of the first things people grab in a crisis according to civil defense studies) and the evacuees will be desperate. How many pitched battles will the survivalist’s family be able to endure? How much work–or even sleep–can he get when he’s constantly on the lookout to repel those who may be trying to get a share of his supplies?

This assumes that he gets to where he’s going ahead of everyone else. He might not though. If he has to travel for long, he may discover squatters on his land or find that some local person has staked out his retreat area for their own. There won’t be any law to help out; what happens next? Since (according to military strategists) our backpack survivalist needs about three times as many people to take an area as to defend it, he will need to have some numbers with him and expect to suffer some casualties. Does that sound like a good way to survive?

What about the local people that don’t try to take over his retreat before he gets there? Will they be glad to see another stranger move into the area to tax their limited supplies? Or will they be setting up roadblocks to turn people like the backpack survivalist away?

But let’s just imagine that somehow he’s discovered a place that doesn’t have a local population and where those fleeing cities aren’t able to get to. What happens when he gets to his retreat? How good does he need to be at hunting and fishing? One reason mankind went into farming was that hunting and fishing don’t supply enough food for a very large population nor do they work during times of drought or climatic disruption. What does he do when he runs out of ammunition or game? What happens if the streams become so contaminated that he can’t safely eat what he catches? Can he stake out a large enough area to guarantee that he won’t depleat it of game so that the next year is not barren of animals?

Farming? Unless he finds some unclaimed farm machinery and a handy storage tank of gasoline at his retreat, he’ll hardly get off first base. Even primitive crop production requires a plow and work animals (or a lot of manpower) to pull the blade. No plow, no food for him or domestic animals.

And domestic animals don’t grow on trees. Again, unless he just happens to find some cows waiting for him at his retreat, he’ll be out of luck. (No one has packaged freeze-dried cows or chickens–at least, not in a form you can reconstitute into living things).

Intensive gardening? Maybe. But even that takes a lot of special tools, seeds, know-how, and good weather. Can he carry what he needs and have all the skills that can be developed only through experience?

Even if he did, he might not have any food to eat. Pestilence goes hand in hand with disasters. Our modern age has forgotten this. But during a time when chemical factories aren’t churning out the insecticides and pest poisons we’ve come to rely on, our backpack survivalist should be prepared for waves of insects flooding into any garden he may create. How good is he at making insecticides? Even if he carries out a large quantity of chemicals to his retreat, how many growing seasons will they last?

Did he truck out a lot of gasoline and an electrical generator with him? No? Do you REALLY think he can create an alcohol still from scratch in the middle of no-where without tools or grain? Then he’d better write off com- munications, lighting, and all the niceties of the 20th Century after his year’s supply of batteries wear out and his vehicle’s supply of gasoline conks out.

I’m afraid we’ve only scratched the surface though.

Thus far things have been going pretty well. What happens when things get really bad? How good is he at removing his spouse’s appendix–without electric lights, pain killers, or antiseptic conditions? Campfire dental work, anyone?

How good is he at making ammunition? Clothing? Shoes?

I think you’ll have to agree that this hardly seems like survival in style. Even if our backpack survivalist is able to live in the most spartan of conditions and has the know-how to create plenty out of the few scraps around him, he’ll never have much of a life ahead of him.

Camping out is fun for a few days. Living in rags like a hunted animal doesn’t sound like an existence to be aimed for.

The bottom line with backpack fever is that, with any major disaster that isn’t extremely localized, running is a panic reaction not a survival strate- gy. Running scared is seldom a good survival technique and backpack fever during any but a localized disaster (like a flood or chemical spill) looks like it would be a terminal disease with few, rare exceptions.

So what’s the alternative?

A number of writers, from Kurt Saxon to Howard Ruff, have already sug- gested it but I think that it bears a retelling.

What they’ve said is this: get yourself situated in a small community that could get by without outside help if things came unglued nationally or internationally. Find a spot that allows you to live in the life-style you’ve grown accustomed to (and a community that allows you to carry on your liveli- hood) but which has the ability to grow its own food and protect its people from the unprepared (or looters) that might drift in from surrounding cities during a crisis. This spot has the ability to carry on trade within its borders and has a number of people who can supply specialized products or professional skills.

An area with two thousand to five thousand people in it along with a surrounding farm community would be ideal but sizes can vary a lot according to the climate and city. Ideally such a town would have its own power plant with a few small industries along with the usual smattering of doctors, dentists, and other professionals.

This type of community isn’t rare in the US. It’s quite common in almost every state. You could probably even take a little risk and commute into a city if you must keep your current job. (In such a case a reverse backpack survival strategy just might work–you’d be bugging out to your home.)

Western civilization stepped out of the dark ages when small communities started allowing people to specialize in various jobs. Rather than each many being his own artisan, farmer, doctor, carpenter, etc., men started learning to master one job they enjoyed doing. Each man become more efficient at doing a job and–through the magic of capitalism–western culture finally started upward again.

A small modern community like the one suggested above, when faced with a national economic collapse or the aftermath of a nuclear war, would eventually lift itself up the same way. It would give those who lived in it the same chance for specialization of work and the ability to carry on mutual trade, support, and protection. Such small communities will be the few light spots in a Neo-Dark Age.

Which place would you rather be: in a cave, wondering where the food for tomorrow would come from, or with a group of people living in their homes, working together to overcome their problems? Even the most individualistic of survivalists shouldn’t find the choice too hard to make.

Infra Red Detection

Infra Red Detection and the Sniper

By Paul Mickey


In Hot Tips & Cold Shots …Fieldcraft… Thermal Detection, there are some pretty gloomy postings about IR detection. As an electrical utility thermographer, I might shed some light (pun intended) on the subject. To qualify this, I am using the latest (I think) commercially available FLIR product, and am a level II thermographer, (total formal IR training: 2 weeks-experience using IR equipment: about 5 years.) I believe I am at least familiar with IR. Granted, my life is not depending on avoiding IR detection, so I guess I can have my opinions pretty safely. These are my observations about IR imagers using civilian equipment and are…… “just my opinion”. It’s up to you and yours to check them out in your world.

This is WAY brief, believe it or not. Anyone interested can email for more. This is about THERMAL detection, not IR illuminating sources for “starlight” scopes.

IR is not Xray, Hollywood bedamned-it cannot detect a differential heat image through common solid materials, plastic film (black or otherwise) being an exception. However, a good imager system can see through holes in a masking material (“IR masking” camo net). And if you are inside a dumpster, bodyheating the bad guy’s side, he can “see” the hot spot on the dumpster’s outside. But if you are not leaning (heating) against that side, he can’t “see you”. Your body heat will not be detected behind most readily available unholed blinding materials if you are not differentially warming/cooling those materials or allowing your own IR to reflect off of something behind/over you. BUT, if the shielding materials are alien to the surroundings, the material itself will probably stand out. See below.

Glass will not allow your THERMAL image to transmit (pass) through; same as the dumpster scenario. The lenses of IR imagers are made of exotic nonglass materials because of this.

Every piece (cluster) of matter, including gasses, emits IR if it is above Absolute Zero (minus 459.69 degrees F). The warmer a body gets, the more IR it will emit. Eventually it will enter the visible spectrum as it gets “red hot”.

The surface of a piece of matter is where IR is emitted. Altering an object’s surface will alter the rate at which IR is emitted. Stoveblack is a classic example.

Materials physically different from each other will likely emit IR at different rates. BUT the differences may be very slight.

IR imaging (read DETECTION) depends upon two objects having one or more differences in Temperature, Emissivity/Reflectivity, and Absorption of the compared objects. For this application, we can forget about Absorption, and you should all understand Temperature. Now, E + R = 100%, thus the more emissive a surface is, the less reflective. If two dissimilar objects are at the same temperature, a high E will “look” hotter to an IR imager than a low E, thus forming an image. Objects with different Temperatures and the right E’s could “look” the same, thus forming NO image. Two objects with similar temperatures and similar emissivities will present an unclear, poorly defined image. Herein lies your IR strength.

Here are some Emissivity values for a few materials, all in percents, all plus/minus a point or two. These are for short wavelength commercial imagers and may vary slightly for long wavelength/long range military/LE equipment. Military techies should have similar emissivity tables for your equipment.

Material : Emissivity
Human skin : 97
Black vinyl electrical tape : 97
Surface sprayed with Dr. Scholl’s aerosol foot powder : 96
Water : 95
Rubber, black, hard : 94
Glass, smooth : 94
Plywood, raw lumber : 90-95
Most painted surfaces (NON aluminum paint) : 90-95
Aluminum based paints, depending on formula : 30-50
Oxidized (blued, parkerized) steel : around 90
Snow : 82-85
“Most” organics (vegetation) : around 80
Cloth, untreated : around 80 (Cotton was a plant too)
BDU fabric, treated : ????????? I would like to know.
Sand : 76
Clay : 40
Gravel : 38
Aluminum, bare and “shiny” (read “spaceblanket”) : under 10

Note the materials that cluster around 95, 80, 40, and 10

Now, to apply IR-101: In all of the scenarios below, remember that your body (or ANYTHING above absolute zero) emits IR in ALL directions. If there is a reflective object behind or beside you, it will pick up your IR and reflect it like you were a light bulb. Whichever situation and methods you use, if you have the opportunity, have an ally check you out from a flank with your best IR detection equipment. Or get the flyboys to check you out with FLIR’s namesake. Do this by day AND night, as the sun will do weird (but predictable) things to the differential temps.

The BEST way to protect yourself from IR detection is get behind/under what is already there, and DON’T change the temperature of it. Since you obviously have to see and perhaps reach out, do so through the smallest portal(s) you can handle. Those “man-sized” targets detectable at 1100 yards are just that – man-sized – not the size of your nose and right eye. Remember that glass reflects some IR (100 – 94 = 6%), and the sky (space) is cold (approaching Absolute Zero), so if your scope is reflecting not sun, but sky, it will look COLD. If you have on a scope sunshade that is hot, the internal IR of the sunshade will reflect out as HOT.

I believe the GI Woodland BDU’s are treated with an IR emittance reducer. If so, the “cloth” E figure in the table will change and you have to adjust for the following discussion. Or obtain untreated camo fabric or defeat that treatment (starch, I believe). The IR reducing treatment makes sense for a situation where the woods is cooler than 98.6 F. I hope the Desert Daylight BDU’s are NOT treated, but the nighttime anti-starlight smocks probably should be. If your BDU’s image “cold” against hot sand, you are just as “seen”. I trust the techies were aware of this, and have specified correctly. But you need to confirm by looking through your equipment at your buddy against some typical backgrounds.

It has been reported that “fresh” BDU’s do indeed have an IR treatment that fatigues (pun) with laundering in “brightener” detergents. As a hunter, I am aware of the UV problem with animals with good night vision (is it an overabundance of rods, or cones, in the eye?) and there are detergents available via sporting goods stores that do not contain brighteners. If you need to maintain that BDU treatment, you might try that. But again, look at your buddies with your equipment.

Now, in sand or vegetation (E = 76-80): If you HAVE to have artificial cover for situations where your clothing will approximate the temperature of the surroundings, you want to expose matching temperature “stuff” with a similar E (around 80). Cover as much of your skin (97) as possible with cloth (80) (remember that I don’t know the E for treated BDU’s). But also remember that sweaty cloth in a hot, dry background might look cold due to evaporative cooling. If you are in a hot dry situation, a tented, solid (not net), dry camo fabric applied as a screen might do the trick for IR. (Remember, same T, similar E). Visual is another problem. Keep the outlines irregular for both IR and visual. Square stuff in a curvy world stands out, no matter the technology. Fresh local vegetation in front of the screen will help both.

Camo face paint is PROBABLY a high emitter, similar to regular paints (90-95), and sweat (water-95) is for sure. You really have to keep that face behind something. I don’t know what a synthetic ski mask would have for an E, but I bet it is below 97. A plain old cotton tee shirt mask would work, but remember the wet/dry/cooling problem.

Black ANYTHING is a good emitter. Blackened steel barrels, synthetic stocks, and painted surfaces (all E’s in the 90’s) should be cloth wrapped for IR and visual both. Black SWAT uniforms probably have a higher E than camo. You need to test.

Dry rubber boot soles (94) are nearly as hot as your face – sock ’em (80).

Old cut local vegetation will be drier, thus HOTTER due to lack of evaporation.

The name of this game is to keep both the Emissivity and the Temperature of the screen and clothing the same as that of the surroundings and keep those portals small.

If you are on bare clay or gravel (38-40) and are worried about aerial observation, dig in. Cover yourself with almost anything sufficiently rigid and then cover it with at least a thin but full layer of the local “dirt”. This will match the E’s. Once the moisture of the new cover layer equals the moisture of the surface around you (evaporative cooling), you will be in decent shape IR wise. Remember that these low E materials have a high Reflectivity, so block your own IR from getting out from under the cover. If there is a chance your body heat will affect the top surface of the dirt cover, use insulating material between you and the bottom of the “roof” to keep it the same temp as the ground around you. Foam board or sleeping bags will do that. The most critical times of day for this hide would be as the sun changes, because rapid heating/cooling of a thin layer of dirt will show up compared to the slower heating/cooling of the intact soil masses. If you can set up in a shaded spot where this will not occur, you should be in decent shape. If there is no shade, make the cover layer thick to create a heat sink approaching that of the surroundings.

If there is no threat of aerial observation, and it is only a frontal threat, a “wall” of local dirt with small portals would be the best bet.

Any new foxhole will print either hot or cold depending on the season and surface temperature, even if the surrounding soil is bare. The deeper soil temp is probably closer to 55 F than the surface.

On snow (82-85), build a snow fort or tunnel in and make small portals. Try to dust loose snow to duplicate surface texture. Pray for new snow. If you wore an aluminized face shield behind that snow fort, it would reflect the “cold” off of the fort, and cover your hot face. This might be a shiny side application of the space blanket, and could be worth testing. Water (95) is your breath when it condenses. And it is warmer than the snow. Only thing I can think of to do here is breath through a ski mask and let it condense before it fogs up over your screen.

As to “space blanket” applications: there might be some, BUT… If you are using the shiny side toward you to keep your IR from getting out, remember that the backside of it is probably not a good E match to the surroundings and it will heat/cool a lot differently than most natural things around you. If you are trying to put the shiny side out angled down to reflect the IR of the terrain right in front of you, there would be a 10% reduction in the reflection, more if it casts a shadow. If the shiny side is out and up, it will reflect the cold of outer space (or the heat of the sun) – and it is going to look REALLY weird to visual and starlight in EITHER case! I cannot think of a space blanket application that I would stake MY life on.

In an urban situation, you will have lots of “normal” IR blockers to get under/behind. Just remember that you are an IR light bulb on the cold surfaces behind you. You cannot casually set up back in the room shadows of a windowless building anymore. Remember, glass will NOT pass through (transmit) your IR image. BUT, glass (94) has a high emissivity and will show its surface temperature rather well. If you are near the window warming it with your breath, you will reveal yourself. If you had a small barrel portal through an otherwise intact glass window, you would be IR blocked, but visually seen. A loose pane of glass back in the room shadows might be a possibility, especially for a spotter. If the room is painted (90-95) and warm (approaching 98.6 F), you might blend in IR wise. But if there is one warm window/room in an “empty” building, something is amiss. The painted walls behind you might not reflect your IR really well, but a metallic light fixture might blink every time you turn your face toward it. The best I can imagine is forget about the “room” and get behind/under something that should be there – sofas, chairs, drapes, etc. and keep your portal small.

None of the above CONCEALMENT strategies are easy; none are guaranteed to make you disappear to an imager. But they will all help make you a less vivid IR image, thus less detectable. IR imagers may or may not have an adjustment to key in the emissivity for scanning and reading temperatures. I doubt military/LE targeting devices would have that – you don’t care what the actual temp is, you just want to see a picture. Military/LE devices probably have a temperature range adjustment to scale up/down according to environment. They probably have an adjustment to set the sensitivity – the difference in perceived T to go from black to white (dark green to light green; whatever). If this is finely tuned, it is like upping the contrast on your monitor.

There is one comforting thing to consider: unless you are in the desert, there are a lot of different “things” around you, each of them with a slightly different Temperature and Emittance combination. If you can make yourself “nearly” match the most common IR surroundings and the sensitivity is set very high in order to pick up your small T/E difference, the other guy is seeing a lot more clutter around you, so your image will be just one spot on the Dalmatian.

For the Ghillie fans: A man sized wad of only burlap and jute rope at 98.6 F plus or minus a few degrees will have the same E all over it. But if there was some leafage from an IR blocking camo net on one shoulder and a splotch of shredded BDU’s at the waist and some foreign force camo material shredded in there somewhere in a cluster, all well supplemented with local veggies, from an IR standpoint it would look like a pile of dissimilar “stuff”.

If you have gotten this far, perhaps a little DECEPTION is in order to up your advantage.

Remember that “Sarge WILL find something during an inspection, so ya might as well give him something so he will stop looking.” If you want to determine if indeed IR detectors are out there, you might want to give them a cowboy hat to shoot at. I don’t know what the E of a bare GI plastic canteen is, but if you either wrapped it with Scotch 33 electrical tape (97) from a demo/como kit or sprayed it with foot powder (96) from your ruck, and had 98 degree water (coffee? Body heat?) in it, it would make a darned good human face (97) to a distant IR imager. Topped with a BDU hat and moved about on a stick behind some intentionally inadequate screening after dark (by somebody else behind that cowboy’s large rock), I suspect you would soon know the targeting capabilities of the opposition – and also acquire a muzzle flash. A piece of most anything warmer than the terrain drug remotely through the grass at night should get IR attention. Just don’t pull it all the way to your position. But you get the idea.

If you want to just give him/them something to worry about, scatter some old tire shreds (94) around at points distant from your position. They will look hotter than most surroundings when they are actually the same temperature. Plus, they will heat up more during sunlight, and hold their temperature for quite a while into dusk. If you can make them move a bit, so much the better. If they are behind intentionally poor screens, thus not visually or starlight identifiable, so much the better. This would be a great application for decoys specially made for the purpose – a visually camo’d, high E lollipop on a spindly, flexible stick.

One of the new IR illumination chemlights would do something, but I have no experience with them. I suspect one of them tripped off in front of or to the side of your position, yourself in a shadow from it, would blind any thermal imagers looking at you – like a trip flare would blind a starlight. Obviously this would be a defensive action.

There have been some pretty impressive demonstrations of the capabilities of IR equipment. And it is indeed impressive stuff, but it ain’t magic. It can image warm footprints on a cold roof, or a “ghost” where you leaned against a cold wall and walked away. But those images fade pretty quickly – faster than the grass will spring back up on your trail to a nest.

I believe that if one person takes the time to study and understand the theory of IR systems and applies it to likely circumstances in his world and does it better than the other guy does, the first guy has an EXCELLENT chance of being the winner. That is true for sniping or bidding on a roof inspection. Even an unfavorable tilt in sophistication of equipment may be overcome with intelligent application of ingenuity. And it won’t take a lot of formal training. After that, it is experience behind an imager. In your case, looking at your buddies in drill hides, and correcting each other’s errors. I grant you that my “thermacam” is not a military targeting device, but if your life is professionally depending on IR avoidance, I hope you have access to IR theory training and support along with the opportunity to drill with your own imagers.

Surviving an Expedient Ambush Roadblock

Surviving an Expedient Ambush Roadblock While Traveling by Vehicle, �
by M.W. �

In the days following a societal collapse, there will be some people who �
will be on the move from where the problems exist to where they hope �
safety lies. There can be many reasons why people are on the move, and �
an equal number of reasons why someone else may wish to stop your �
progress. Getting on the move and out of a hostile area as early as �
possible in the wake of a collapse is a significant key to one’s survival, as �
well has having buddies to cover you during your travel. �

The sooner you get on the road, the less your chances of encountering �
problems. A few people will recognize the early signs of collapse and get �
moving out of town long before traffic becomes a problem. Others will �
recognize the issue within twenty-four hours after the event takes place, �
and will be on the leading edge of the traffic during the exodus. The �
majority will not realize the seriousness until it is too late. These people �
will get caught-up in the traffic jam that will rival the exodus of Houston �
during Hurricane Rita, where I-45 and I-10 were packed full of cars �
stopped on the highway for 100 miles. Many people ran out of gas on the �
side of the road and found themselves without food or water since they �
had only moved a few miles in four hours. �

You may be a well prepared family, but for one reason or another are �
caught on your heals when a collapse occurs. This leads you to stay put �
longer than you would have liked, but you have no better tactical choices �
but to lay low at home or work for a few days before bugging out. You do �
not want to get caught in a highway traffic jam following a collapse. If �
you get stuck, you will have to leave most of what you packed into your �
vehicle(s) and move out on foot amongst the thousands of ill-prepared �
people on the roads doing things they would never have considered �
during normal times. �

Those who are forced to wait out the initial exodus and are moving out of �
urban areas several days or weeks after the collapse will have a higher �
probability of coming in contact with an expedient ambush roadblock, �
both in the city and on rural roads outside of small towns. An expedient �
ambush roadblock is one set-up in haste with readily available materials �
and personnel. There will be plenty of desperate people who were caught �
unprepared for such an event; their lack of morals and innate nature to �
survive will drive them to take from others, with deadly force if necessary. �
It is your job to protect your family and yourself from these threats, �
especially when on the move. �

While traveling in a vehicle on the roads, you may encounter various �
types of roadblocks or ambush points. Some may be fairly elaborate, �
while others may be quite simple. All are equally deadly. The primary �
tactic you will need to thread your way safely through one of these �
expedient ambush roadblocks is what I call R.O.C.S.: Recognition, �
Observation, Covering Fire, and Speed. �

Recognition: �
Recognizing that something you see ahead is a potential ambush site is �
the first key to success. An ambush site can appear as a traffic accident �
(as illustrated in Patriots), a fallen tree near or on the road, �
abandoned/broken down vehicles, anything blocking all or part of the �
road, detours, refugees, high ground on one or both sides of the road, �
bridges, and anything that looks like it does not belong on, or near, a �
road. These are the types of expedient ambush sites that someone may �
quickly create in the days following a societal collapse. It is up to �
whomever is leading, to recognize that a potential exists and to move into �
the observation phase. �

Observation: �
Once you recognize a likely ambush point (LAP), you have two choices: �
divert your course and completely avoid the circumstance, or observe and �
evaluate the site. You can either stop well short of the potential ambush �
point and observe through a scope or binoculars, or have a passenger �
continue to observe while on the move. Observation is a form of Intel. �
Look for signs of movement, or things that seem out of place. Reverse �
what you see and put yourself in the place of the ambusher. Where would �
you hide? How would you set it up? How many people would you need to �
pull off an ambush? What weapons would you use? What tactics would �
you employ? What is your end game? �

At this point, you need to determine if what you see is worth the risk of �
approach or if you need to turn around and find a different route (if �
possible). Anyone traveling with you should also evaluate the situation �
and help with risk assessment. Once a decision is made to approach and �
pass the observed site, cover[ing fire] is needed. �

Covering Fire: �
This is a two or more person/vehicle job. This means that if it is just you, �
your wife and the kids, that you need to move out of town in two vehicles. �
Hopefully you have friends traveling with you to a new location who also �
have a vehicle and weapons. For [overwatching] cover[ing fire] during the �
operation, the lead vehicle stops at a distance from the LAP that is within �
the range of the weapon being employed. For most weapon platforms a �
good distance is 100-300 yards. This ensures accurate shots and plenty �
of ballistic energy. �

The lead vehicle should place their vehicle at a 45-degree angle to the �
direction of travel and the weapon system should then be employed �
across the hood so that the engine block provides a [limited] ballistic �
shield for those person(s) providing cover[ing fire]. �
The trailing vehicles should move past the lead vehicle with Speed. Once �
beyond the LAP, those vehicles stop and provide cover for the other �
vehicle(s) yet to pass through the site. Again, the vehicles that have �
already passed the LAP should stop within range of the weapon(s) being �
employed and turn their vehicles 45-degrees to the road and take �
personal cover behind the engine, covering the passage of the trailing �
vehicles. �

[JWR Adds: The concept of covering fire is actaully better termed �
suppressive fire. The term “cover”, properly, only applies to barriers that �
provide ballistic protection to those behind them. So “covering fire” does �
not provide cover, nor concealment, only supression!] �
Speed: �

Passing through the LAP with adequate speed, and setting up a covering �
position on the far side for the trailing vehicles as fast as possible is key �
to minimizing exposure for all concerned. You do not want to drive so �
fast that you could lose control of your vehicle if you suddenly had to �
swerve or take significant evasive action. �

Having short-range communications for these types of situations is also a �
smart idea. This can be done with CB radios, or inexpensive GMRS/eXRS �
two-way radios. Radios will be especially helpful during nighttime �
operations of this type. When the lead vehicle can communicate to trailing �
vehicle(s) that there is a LAP ahead, this can start a desired chain reaction �
that can significantly increase the odds of surviving one of these �
situations. Communications can also be an aid when the lead vehicle �
passes an unseen ambush point and can radio a warning to following �
vehicles, which can immediately render covering fire and/or take evasive �
actions. �

The following is a fictitious scenario using all of the aforementioned, with �
three families in three vehicles approaching a potential ambush site seen �
from one mile away. The cars are traveling 200 yards apart. (After the �
SHTF, when traveling by foot or vehicle, travel should always be �
conducted in tactical columns, where a specified distance is maintained �
between people or vehicles. Staying too close together and/or tailgating �
are unacceptable risks after SHTF, when traveling.) �
Lead vehicle (vehicle 1): “LAP ahead, one mile” �

Trailing vehicles stop in place, while vehicle 1 moves forward another �
1/2-mile and evaluates the LAP. The lead vehicle stops and uses 10×50 �
binoculars to scan the area. No movement is noticed, but it looks like a �
large tree was dropped across one lane of the highway. The base is �
obviously recently cut, and there are no other dead trees nearby. The �
leaves still have a greenish tint and have not yet browned, but are wilted. �
Lead vehicle radios the trailing vehicles: “No movement seen, there is a �
way past the LAP on the opposite shoulder and grass. Watch the tree line �
on the right side of the road. Lots of dense cover there. We will move �
ahead to 200 yards and set-up.” �

The lead vehicle approaches slowly to within 200 yards while the trailing �
vehicles move to within � mile away. The lead vehicle stops in the road �
and turns to 45-degrees to the direction of travel and both occupants �
exit the drivers side and set up across the hood with their AR-10 rifles �
with ACOG scopes. �
Lead vehicle radios the trailing vehicles: “Go!” �
The first trailing vehicle (vehicle 2) gets up to speed and approaches the �
LAP while the lead vehicle continues to scan the LAP through their scopes, �
ready to fire upon any threat. The vehicle passes the LAP with no �
problems and goes 200 yards beyond and sets up an overwatch position �
on the other side, careful to orient themselves so as not to fire upon the �
vehicles on the other side. They are covering with scoped AR-10s �
scanning the LAP. �
Vehicle 2 radios: “We are through and set up. Go!” �
While vehicles 1 and 2 maintain covering positions, the last vehicle �
(vehicle 3) gets up to speed and starts to pass the LAP. As they do so, �
gunfire erupts from the tree line (in this instance, the ambushers were �
caught unaware by the first vehicle and were alert when the next one �
came through.) Vehicles 1 and 2 open fire on the tree line, while the �
passenger in vehicle 3 opens fire while passing the ambush. Once beyond �
the ambush point, vehicle 3 sets up 220 yards on the other side of the �
ambush to the rear and right of vehicle 2, and provides covering fire �
along with vehicle 2. �
Vehicle 3 radios: “We’re set. Covering. No fire from the trees. Go!” �
Vehicle 1 remounts and charges through the ambush point with no �
gunfire coming from the tree line. They drive beyond the other two �
vehicles and all personnel remount their vehicles and resume their travels. �
At this point, it would be wise to find a secure place to stop and evaluate �
your persons and vehicles. You don’t need to stop all jumbled together, �
especially if there is more than one person per vehicle and everyone has a �
radio. Each vehicle stops a couple hundred yards apart and while one �
person provides cover, the other goes over the vehicle and passengers, �
looking for trouble. �

You would want to check the tires, engine soft points (hoses, belts, etc.) �
and look for leaks (anti-freeze, fuel, oil, hydraulic fluid, etc.) Be sure to �
check each other carefully as adrenaline will be high and a person who �
has been shot or injured may not feel a wound at this point. Address any �
issues as quickly as possible and continue moving. �

Other Considerations �
Stopping to evaluate and/or cover a position may not be advisable in �
some circumstances. You do the best you can at evaluating while on the �
move, radioing your findings to your travel companions, and then �
pushing through. This is where speed comes in to play. The faster you �
can get through the LAP the better your chances of survival. Your �
passenger (if you have one) helps with navigation, assessing threats, and �
provides cover during the encounter. �

Choosing weapons is always a difficult decision, especially if you are �
going to be defending your life with them. For situations such as the one �
presented above, the longer the effective range of the weapon, the �
further away you can stay from the LAP, increasing your chances of �
survival. You must also consider that just because you can easily shoot a �
M1A or even a .50 Barrett, your wife or teenager may not be able to �
adequately handle such a weapon in a life-or-death cover fire situation. �
[So a .223, 5.45×39, or 7.62x39mm rifle may be more apropos.] �
Having a scope on your weapon will also increase your shot accuracy and �
your ability to observe the area for movement while your weapon system �
is employed. �

We all want to be accurate with open sights at long ranges, but if you are �
trying to hit the small exposed body part of a person behind cover at 250 �
meters, it is easier to find the body part to shoot at with a scope. People �
do not always present themselves as a nice squared-up silhouette like at �
a shooting range. When your target has taken cover, you may only get to �
see the top of a head, or part of an arm or leg. Putting a bullet in an �
extremity might not kill them, but it may take them out of the fight. �
For night operations, having some form of night vision technology could �
become critical. �

These systems allow you to see through the darkness and into the �
darkest of shadows. Generation I systems are only adequate to about 50 �
meters and cost under $200. Generation I+ systems have a little more �
clarity and cost $300-500. Generation II and II+ systems can now be had �
for less than $1,000 new, and can be found cheaper from time to time in �
the used marketplace. These go up to $3,500 depending on features and �
manufacturer, and have a range from 100 to 200 meters with quite clear �
optics for the price. Generation III night vision has come down quite a bit �
and can be had for $3,500-$5,500. �

Personally, I cannot see enough difference between quality (with the �
exception of extended recognition range) of the Gen II and Gen III night �
vision to compel me to spend the extra $2,500+. There is also �
“Generation IV” night vision, which �

I know very little about. Prices seem to be in the $4,500-5,500 range. A �
Gen II, III, or IV night vision monocular could be a life saver, especially if �
you can get one that comes with an optional weapons mount. �

http://www.survivalblog.com/2009/08/surviving_an_expedient_a mbush.��

Haiti Machete Gangs

Food security collapses in Haiti as machete-wielding gangs f

http://www.naturalnews.com/027948_food_ … dness.html

Food security collapses in Haiti as machete-wielding gangs fight in the streets�
by Mike Adams, the Health Ranger, NaturalNews Editor�

(NaturalNews) Overnight, Haiti has gone from an organized, civil nation to a scenario of total chaos with gangs running wild through the streets, ransacking shops and fighting over food with machetes.�

Learning this, many an ignorant westerner might naively say, “That could only happen in Haiti. It’s because those people are so poor, so uncivilized. It could never happen here…”�

Oh but it could.�

Haiti isn’t so different from wherever you live — a city in America, Canada, Australia, the UK or anywhere else. Everywhere in the world, people will fight for survival when the situation becomes desperate. The only reason the streets in your town aren’t overrun with firearms and machetes right now is because food is plentiful. The electricity works. The water supply is functioning and police keep the relatively few criminals under control.�

But wherever you live, your city is just one natural disaster away from total chaos. Hurricane Katrina proved it: Even in America, a civil, law-abiding city of people can be turned into looting, stealing and dangerously armed bands of gang-bangers.�

And you know why? Because people aren’t prepared for disasters. Come to think of it, most people aren’t even prepared for a disruption in food and electricity lasting more than 48 hours. Almost nobody has spare food, water, emergency first aid supplies or the ability to physically defend themselves against aggressors. They are betting their lives on the bizarre idea that their government will save them if something goes wrong.�

The people of Haiti are now learning what the people of New Orleans already know: Your government won’t save you. In a real crisis, you are on your own.�

Law and order is a fragile thing�
When disruptions occur — whether through natural disasters, radical weather events, war or civil unrest — governments and city police organizations can break down within hours. In Haiti right now, there is no government running anything. No police force. No authority. It’s every man (and woman) for himself. If you want to eat, you pick up a machete and fight for it.�

It is a desperate situation.�

This article isn’t really about Haiti, by the way. It’s about YOU and where YOU live. If a natural disaster struck your town tonight, would you be prepared?�

Do you have the means to procure clean water if the water system breaks down? Do you have a way to provide shelter for yourself and your family if there’s no electricity or heating fuel available? Can you physical defend yourself and your family against aggressive marauders desperately searching for food? (Or do you have enough to share with them? If so, how will you share with the hundreds or thousands that follow in their footsteps?)�

Most people aren’t prepared for the unknown. They live lives that are entirely dependent on the continued successful operation of public infrastructure, law and order. And if that infrastructure is ever interrupted, they are completely unable to fend for themselves.�

Most people live out most of their lives in precisely this situation. Every American city is a future Haiti just waiting to happen under the right (or wrong) circumstances. Civility is a fragile thing. Law and order is a thin veneer on society. And it can disappear in mere minutes.�

Be prepared�
This article, though, isn’t a doom-and-gloom assessment of our modern society. Rather, it is a reminder to all of us to get real about personal preparedness.�

If you don’t have a portable water filter, some storable food, a warm sleeping bag and all sorts of other preparedness items all ready to go in a “go bag,” then you may find yourself in the same situation millions of Haitians find themselves in right now.�

Most Haitians have a reasonable excuse for a lack of preparedness: In terms of per-capita income, Haiti is one of the poorest nations in the world. It’s difficult to stockpile water filters, storable food and outdoor gear when you’re living on a couple of dollars a day. But for people like you, living in “wealthy” nations like the USA, you CAN afford to be prepared.�

You can afford water storage containers. You can afford sprouting seeds and some simple sprouting trays. You can afford an emergency LED flashlight, a high-quality multifunction knife tool and an emergency tent. Most likely, you have the financial means to get prepared starting right now. So if you haven’t already done it, get to it!�

You can find all sorts of preparedness products at www.BePrepared.com and even retailers like www.Vitacost.com sell water filters and other preparedness items. Camping outlets like www.REI.com are also great sources for preparedness gear.�

Protect your health�
Right now, Haiti is in a health crisis. The hellish conditions, lack of clean water and lack of medical assistance is leading to rapidly deteriorating health conditions there.�

So what do you really need to protect your health in a crisis?�

Clean water is a priority. You’ll need five gallons per day per person to cover hydration, cooking and rudimentary bathing needs. You’ll need a portable water filter (like a Katadyn ceramic filter) to remove parasites and other “germs” in water that you might find through other sources (rivers, streams, etc.).�

You’ll need a powerful anti-viral, anti-bacterial herbal tincture. Herbs can save your life against infectious disease. You’ll also need a serious first-aid kit that includes bandages and some western medical supplies such as antibacterial creams, emergency sutures (with needles), gauze and medical iodine.�

Don’t forget a supply of high-potency nutrition. Some spirulina or chlorella tablets can provide crucial nutrition. Chia seeds, nuts or even peanut butter can give you essential calories. If you have time and space, sprouting seeds can give you the all-important living foods that will enhance your immune function and help you deal with the tremendous stresses of a crisis.�

This isn’t a complete preparedness list, of course. If you want one, get this amazing preparedness course that was recorded during the financial bailout crisis. It offers a wealth of information about personal and family preparedness: http://www.truthpublishing.com/Heal...

Or figure out what you need in this way: Shut off ALL your infrastructure for a weekend and see how you do. Live without water, electricity, heat, grocery store food, fuel and phone service and see how prepared you really are!�

This is the best test of all. And if you really want to see if you’re ready for a Haiti-style crisis, assume that your house has collapsed from an earthquake and you have to survive outside, in your yard, without anything from your house. Where is your stuff now? How will you survive the next 48 hours in your yard, with no help from anyone else and your house in a pile of rubble?�

Proper planning avoids future emergencies. And no neighbor or city is entirely insulated from natural disasters or other unexpected events.


The Grey Man

By Habcan:�

The Grey Man is always invisible in plain sight.�

The Grey Man is totally aware of his environs, his own capabilities or lack thereof, his weaponry and his levels of competence with that weaponry. He constantly strives to improve upon both his capabilities and competence. In public, he is always respectful, even to the point of obsequiousness if the situation calls for it. He always appears to be just a little confused by what is happening around him, while in reality he is alertly doing a tactical assessment. �

The Grey Man NEVER draws attention to himself by word, dress, action, or mannerism. The Young Grey Man is dismissed as a wimp, the Older as a doddering old fool. The Grey Man derives great inner satisfaction from having this portrayal of himself accepted by all he meets, for it means he is succeeding in his disguise of his actual persona. �

The Grey Man is a private man. He practices with his weaponry in private, or only with his fellow Grey Men, always in a secluded location. If he must resort to use of a public facility, he schedules his practice for times when he is likely to be the only one there. At such times he would probably wear bright clothing, to be remembered only as ‘that guy in the red jacket and sunglasses’, a quite different person from his usual persona. If right-handed, he would always occupy the leftmost station on a NRA bullseye pistol range, with his back to an observer, or the rightmost one for riflery or combat pistol practice. He would not have his name emblazoned on clothing or equipment, nor would he have any noteworthy affiliation proclaimed on his cap. “He’s just a guy. Comes every Wednesday morning for his coffeebreak. Always pays cash.”�

The Grey Man does not drive a pink Cadillac with steer horns on the hood, NOR does he drive the biggest mutherin’ 4X4-with-all-the-bells-and-whistles BOV in the lot. The older his vehicle is, the rustier, the less likely it is to draw attention (or to be stolen, for that matter). This vehicle is, under its exterior, scrupulously maintained and in excellent running order. If pulled over by authority on the basis of appearance, it can be shown to meet or exceed all requirements under licensing laws, and an obsequious co-operative manner precludes a search under the seats. The Grey Man does not speed on the highway: cruise control is his friend. So is the Highway Patrol: he waves to any he sees. If he travels the same route constantly, at the same times, The Grey Man becomes a ‘fixture’ and can be dismissed from conscious observation.�

It helps the Survivor to build up this persona of The Grey Man gradually and over time. The anti-gun sheeple neighbors will quickly rat out the ‘Patriot’ who is always loudly declaiming about his ‘Rights’ and ‘what will happen if they try to take my guns’. The Grey Man goes far out of his way never to offend anyone, imitating the duck which appears calm on the surface of his pond whilst paddling like hell under the surface.�

Be seen as conservative in all you do. A Survivor is a Grey Man, and that little old grey man alone over there in the corner is probably a Survivor! �

And that young guy next to him? Just another wimp? Or are they both watching each other’s backs?�

Making the other guy waste precious time in assessing the situation is a big part of staying alive. Practice being grey now, while there’s time to build your skills.

Avoid exposure

*Guard your image – Dress and groom yourself in the same manner as is generally acceptable among people of similar age, income, and gender in your area. In other words, don’t stand out.�

*Guard your words – Don’t talk openly about anything that everyone else doesn’t also talk about, and if drawn into a conversation that could be considered “controversial”, shrug and offer a vague, noncommittal opinion.�

*Guard your actions – Use innocuous activities to cover your real actions. For example, if you’re going to the range, be seen loading up fishing gear and wear your fishing clothes, and make sure you have a fishing license, or dress and equip yourself for golf, but in either case, make sure you can talk the talk if the neighbors get nosy, as they always do.�

*Guard your associations – Don’t be seen with “suspicious” types of people. For example, if your friends come over, make sure they don’t dress like Rambo and don’t have militant bumperstickers on their vehicles, etc. If someone can’t fit in with the neighbors, they shouldn’t come over, unless they can be passed off as a repairman or such.�


Every Day Carry Wallet

Wallet EDC�

Im always talking about layering equipment. This way your not reliant on one set of gear. If your primary set up becomes lost, stolen or you are searched and vital E&E tools are taken, then having backups become essentual. Wallet sized products may just be a sales gimmick, but� theyve now been around a while are becoming better quality and designed to suit far more applications.�

I started with a new product from Maxpedition. A Sparton wallet a more streamlined version to the original pug design. Lots on nice hidey hole type slides behind the credit card loop enclosures. Ive fitted this out with one of the original Microtech assailant credit card knives for a defensive option. Another new product on the market from Toologic is the Survival Credit Card Tool. A well thought out piece of gear. It becomes a mini survival kit in itself. Items Listed below. The last product is made by Toool. A break out wafer lock pick set to be used as a back up to my Bagota pick set located in my primary E&E belt kit.�

Maxpedition Spartan Wallet


Tool Logic Survival Credit Card


*Serrated Blade�
(high carbon stainless steel)�
* Magnesium Alloy Firestarter (replaceable)�
* Loud Signal Whistle�
* Tweezer and Toothpick

* Lanyard Hole�
plus your choice of:�
* Compass and 8X Power Lens (SVC1) or�
* Brilliant Red LED Flashlight (SVC2)�

Microtech Assailant


Backup Pick Set


The break out pickset is in an easy to carry card form. Every part of the card is a pick tool, with 6 picks and 5 tension wrenches once you break on the scored marks.

The 6 picks included in the set are:

  • Long Hook
  • Short Hook
  • Half Snowman
  • Long Rake
  • Snake
  • Half Diamond

The tension wrenches feature both serrated and non serrated variety, and come in several different sizes.�

Sanitation: Post SHTF

Sanitation Post SHTF (Before #&*! Hits the Floor)

When I first starting looking at alternative options for a sanitation system, in case the grid went down. I thought of buying a composting toilet. This was primarily for a bus that Im rebuilding. At close to two grand for a small model seemed way out of my price range. Ive had to use chemical porta-potty’s in the past and absolutely dispise having to empty them. They also need cleaning every few days. A composting version may only need emptying every few months. Depending on use. For short term use I brought a Reliance Luggable Loo, essentually a bucket with a toilet seat for a lid which requires the following to operate. Which is not really a sustainable longer term option.�
Supplies for Emergency Sanitation Toilet�
Plastic or metal 5 gallon bucket.�
5 gallon bucket snap on toilet seat lid.�
Heavy duty plastic trash bags large enough to line the 5 gallon bucket with room to spare.�
50# Bag of powdered, chlorinated lime. This product is also referred to as calcium Hypochlorite or Bleaching Powder and can be found at pool supply stores.�
Borax found at your local grocery store.�
Spoon with long handle.�
Toilet Paper�

Tips on Using Your Emergency Sanitation Toilet�
Line your 5 gallon bucket with heavy duty plastic bags.Never let your bucket get more than half full before disposing of waste.After each use of the toilet, use the spoon with long handle to scoop about a tablespoon of powdered, chlorinated lime on the waste. This helps to break down the waste.After each use of the toilet, use the spoon with long handle to scoop about a tablespoon of borax on the waste. This helps to reduce odors.When you need to dispose of the waste, find a location at least 48′ from any dwelling, water supply, animals, and garden. Dig a hole at least 18 inches deep and at least 48′ downstream or away from any water source (Dogs can smell through dirt up to 16 inches and they will dig up human waste) Place the bag full of waste in the hold and bury. Mark the site for future removal if it becomes necessary.�

Items to store in the bucket:�
5 Gallon Bucket w/ Snap-on Toilet Seat Lid�
2 rolls Toilet Paper�
1 Disinfectant Wipes 35 ct (for cleaning)�
1 pkg Wet Wipes 90 ct�
2 pr Latex Gloves�
1 Hand Sanitizer�
12 Bio-Blue Deodorizing Packets�
6 Double Doodie Plus w/ Gel Toilet Bags�

I then discovered the Humanure Handbook and lovable Loo’s. Simple construction and they only require the use of saw dust to break down waste. Cant get much easier than that, for emergency use and will look quite good in my bus. Simply cover waste with a layer of saw dust and when the bucket is filled to the correct height, cover with a lid and exchange buckets for later composting�

Disaster Toilet�

Humanure Handbook PDF�

Build your own Waterless toilet�

Budget Composting toilets�

Lovable Loo�



How to build a Saw Dust Toilet�

Sawdust Toilets�

Home Made Composting Toilets�

Where to find Training in OZ (Australia)

PT 1 Defensive Driving

Defensive driving� is relevant, enjoyable, and will far improve your skills and ability levels. Young drivers are strongly encouraged to develop better on-road defensive driving skills and more solid techniques, but more experienced drivers also benefit enormously from advanced driver training, including the correction of old habits and improving judgement and reactions. �

This one-day Defensive Driving Course� Level 1 course is suited to all drivers of regular passenger vehicles, including four-wheel drives and light commercial vehicles. The mix of practical and theoretical components of this advanced driver training session deliver actual on-road safety skills that underpin proactive driving. �

The practical driving component of our Fleet Safety and Defensive Driving Program� is conducted on wet roads at suburban speeds. It includes a variety of on road exercises including emergency braking, swerving and multiple direction changes.

Suitable to all drivers 18 to 80 years and suitable to most vehicles including four wheel drives and light commercial vehicles. Presented in a relaxed, friendly, and supportive environment by qualified, experienced instructors with over 20 years’ experience, with a balanced mixture of theory and practical driving exercises. We guarantee that regardless of your driving experience you’ll be amazed at what you’ll learn, and what a great time you’ll have learning it with us.

The aim of these exercises is to educate drivers in:

  • A comprehensive open forum that exposes many well worn motoring myths and where we are most vulnerable in our driving habits. The open forum is a time for breaking down barriers.
  • Enlightening facts about tyre capabilities and the absolute necessity of understanding their limitations.
  • Practical simulated emergencies in a controlled environment on the bitumen. You do the driving.
  • Extensive correctional tuition in simulated emergencies in skid control/skid prevention/car control.
  • Practical simulated emergencies and skid control/skid prevention on an unsealed surface*.
  • Extensive correctional techniques for dirt driving*.
  • Explanations of vehicle dynamics and how they change according to the dirt surface.
  • Defensive driving guidelines that will help avoid “the other driver”.
  • Course certificate and information handout presentation.
  • Question and answer time.

*(Dirt component may be altered due to weather/track conditions – in the event of poor conditions an extension in bitumen surface training will be implemented).

The classroom component of this course covers basic road safety concepts and the key principals of defensive driving including:

Fleet Safety and Defensive Driving Program key learning objectives:

  • Through practical driving exercises, become more ‘speed aware’, particularly in how the degree of vehicle control difficulty increases exponentially in relation to increases in vehicle speeds.
  • Develop an understanding of basic vehicle dynamics, in emergency situations
  • Learn to predict potential hazards, identify risky situations and minimise danger
  • Understand the importance of keeping your vision high and maintaining sensible safety margins around your vehicle at all times

Develop a positive and proactive attitude towards defensive driving �


PT 2 Knife Skills

It has become increasingly clear that the world we live in is rapidly changing. Values that were once accepted as being the norm are no longer valid and the need to take control and responsibility for your own personal safety is now critical to individual survival. Violent crimes on the streets and inside of homes of the citizens that involve edged weapons are taking place on a daily basis. �
Awareness of personal safety issues are at the forefront of individuals everyday concerns and especially those who have families and work in occupations that put them in potentially risky situations.�
Nobody can expect criminals to do the right thing or for Government Agencies to be able to protect you from these people in times of social disorder, or in the instant that you life is threatened. �
Being proficient in the AMOK! Tactical Knife Method is not a overreaction to the current state of the world or a product of unjustifiable paranoia, but more a small step in helping to guarantee your self preservation and in turn, that of those in your care.

AMOK! Australia is proud to announce the creation of an advanced Edged Weapon Solutions curriculum that has been specifically designed for those who work in the Security or Law Enforcement field, as well as for individuals who work in high risk occupations. Only in the last few years have Edged Weapon Training gained acceptance as a necessity in Military, Law Enforcement and the Security Industry and while the Edged Weapon Defence industry itself takes shape, it will undergo a period that will sift the incompetents from the experts.�

People’s lives depend on this technology and everyone needs to be reminded that being an expert in one area does not make you an expert in another. Edged Weapon training ought to be diverted to the experts in that field for whom it is their specialty.�

Certain recent social trends have contributed to the urgent need for an edged weapons defence training system which provides answers to the most difficult self defence situation one can face, and also takes into account the legal considerations and ramifications for people who are involved in edged weapon assault scenarios.�

The rapid escalation of blade assaults on Australian streets, as well as the growing edged weapon problems emerging in areas of organised criminal activity, indicate that the use of the blade and other edged implements is on the increase and is now the weapon of choice amongst many career criminals, gang members, and even teenage groups, with the ease of availability and the ability to conceal these weapons making them attractive to those who have no regard for the laws of society.�

When it comes to teaching the concepts and techniques required to minimize potential injury by bladed weapon assaults, even the best martial arts generalist can’t be expected to have expert answers to such a specialist problem. In addition, it is a dangerous misconception to think that non knife specialists are in any way qualified to design concepts and techniques to be used against knife attacks, even if the attacker is someone who is untrained.�
Any person who trains in any form of self defence, should realise that in the future they may well be at risk of being involved in and possibly injured by, a bladed or edged weapon assault. AMOK! Edged Weapon Solutions will teach you tactical edged weapon defence concepts and techniques which are legal, easy to learn and effective, offering the best possible outcome in any violent edged weapon confrontation.

AMOK Edged Weapons Solutions


PT 3 Knife Defense

In this seven day intensive course you will be learn techniques from the highly respected and innovative combative systems, Tactical Krav Maga and Floro Knife & Stick Fighting Systems.�

The extensive content covered in this course will take your edged, impact and improvised weapon skills to a whole new level. Learn how to defend against knife and stick attacks using both empty hand and improvised weapon defences. Learn how to utilise found items as edged weapons, short & long impact weapons and more!

This is an amazing opportunity. Being instructed by the Chief Instructors of Tactical Krav Maga and Floro Fighting Systems, you will get to train with two of the most highly respected instructors in the country all within the one course.�

This is a rare opportunity to get to the heart of this vital information in a concise and intensive training experience.

Guest Instructors:

Carl Halley
International TKM Chief Instructor�
Certified by Eyal Yanilov I.K.M.F & Itay Gil PROTECT�
Australian Goverment Accredited Martial Arts Instructor�
Member of Martial Arts Industry Association

Ray Floro
Chief Instructor for Floro Fighting Systems �
Floro Fighting Systems is a system of Edged Weapon combat and defence that is not only simple to learn, but is one of the most effective systems of Self Defence available today. Efficient, direct and immediate, FFS is one of the very few styles that is still based on the blade, and is used by Civilians, Military, and Law Enforcement Agencies Worldwide. With over 30 years of experience, Ray Floro has instructed various elite units around the World. Such Units as:

  • US Special Forces
  • Korean Special Forces
  • Australian Special Forces
  • Various Swat Teams
  • Australian Defence Force
  • Australian Federal Police
  • New Zealand Police
  • Victorian Police
  • New South Wales Police
  • Northern Territory Police


PT 4 Hand to Hand

Level 1 – Foundation Skills
Day 1&2

  • Introduction, Isolation and Integration of Intercepting and Stabilising Skills
  • Forklift, Helmet, Dive, Arm Drag, 2 on 1 Escort, Wrist Weave, Seatbelt, �
    Harness, Body Lock, Shake the Blanket, Under hook and Pike, The Triple �
  • Introduction to Resolution – The “S” Position, Arm Wrap and Knee Ride

Day 3

  • Resolution – above + back mount with rides, handlebar, resolution for �
  • Integration of Day 1&2 skills against alive resistance during various drills �
    including multiple subjects and confined spaces

Level 2 – Intermediate Applications (Level 1 Pre-req)
Day 4&5 Ground and Combative Applications including attached striking, clinch �
with cloth, ground recovery, clinch

Specialist Modules (Level 1 Pre-req)
Subject Control Team Tactics – (One Day) including leg anchors, confined �
spaces, immediate and delayed second and third responding officer�
Law Enforcement Weapons Retention, Counter Weapons and Vehicle �
Extractions(Restricted – One Day)

Option 1: Introduction to ISR Matrix PM – Days 1&2 (2 day block)�
Option 2: ISR Matrix PM Foundation Skills – Days 1-3 (3 day block)�
Option 3: ISR Matrix PM Team Tactics – Days 1-3 + Team Tactics Module (4 �
day block or 2 x 2 day blocks)�
Option 4: ISR Matrix PM Individual Intermediate Applications (5 days total – �
blocks preferred)�
Option 5: ISR Matrix Physical Management Full Spectrum Operator – �
Intermediate (Civilian)
(All modules minus LE module. 6 days total – �
consecutive or in blocks)�
Option 6: ISR Matrix Law Enforcement Foundation Skills (All modules �
minus PM Intermediate skills)

ISR Matrix


PT 5 Medical

Field Medical training in Austere Environments

providing personnel with the skills, knowledge & attitude required to

undertake the initial or ongoing management of a range of life-threatening

medical emergencies, in a range of tactical situations & environments. Based on proven tactical medical practice

and taught by instructors with real-world tactical medical experience, courses

cover such topics as;

Introduction to tactical medical operations

Tactical Risk assessment & management strategies

Communications, leadership & decision-making

Phases of tactical care & scene management

Tactical medical equipment

Tactical patient assessment

Tactical trauma care

Tactical triage & evacuation techniques

Care through the barricade

Tactical emergency drills

Integrating with emergency services

Medical threat assessments


Wilderness First Aid

Basic Wilderness First Aid (BWFA) (2 days – 16 hours) Fun, practical and loaded with scenarios this is the ideal introduction to the field of Wilderness Medicine for those playing in the outdoors. �
Wilderness First Aid (inc CPR) (3 days – 24 hours) This 3-day course covers the same material as the 2-day course as well as offering CPR and more scenario based teaching. A well rounded introduction to Wilderness First Aid for bushwalkers, climbers, paddlers and those who find themselves out and about. �
Advanced Wilderness First Aid (AWFA) (4 days – 32 hours) The AWFA course is an excellent starting point for serious recreational adventurers or those starting in the Outdoor Recreation/Education fields. Plenty of scenarios, CPR/EAR and a solid understanding of patient assessment sets you up for success. �
Wilderness First Responder (WFR) (10 days – 80 hours) The WFR is our highest level of training. It is accepted as the defacto international standard for outdoor professionals, and is required by companies such as NOLS and Outward Bound (USA) for all of their field staff. �



PT 13 First Aid Update

Intraosseous Vascular Access
IV Fluid Therapy
Wound Closure
Cert III in Occupational Emergency Care
Spinal Injury Management
Cyanide Poisoning Management
Supraglottic (Rescue) Airways
Isolated Area Emergency Care
Pain Management
CPR (Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation)
Life Support (CPR)
Senior First Aid (Apply First Aid)
Low Voltage Switchboard Rescue
Oxygen Therapy & Resuscitation
Advanced First Responder

PT 6 Firearms

Prerequisites of having security licences and current firearms licences are needed for Tactical Firearms Training.

Security Firearms Entry Level Course (Revolver)
4 days full time

Content:Legalities, firearms safety, firearms characteristics, loading techniques and practical shooting for H6 licensing. Police Clearance required prior to enrolment on this course. �

Security Firearms Entry Level Course (Semi-Automatic Pistol)
1 day full time �

Defensive Tactics Course
2 days full time PPCT accredited instructor

Content: Legalities, Force Continuum Techniques etc Baton Techniques Handcuff Techniques Pressure Point Control Techniques Joint Locks/Escort Techniques Blocks, Strikes & Kicks, Restraint and removal techniques. Attendance Course Only�







PT 7 Instructor Level

Instructor Certifications

Our programs cover instructor certifications across the entire force response continuum for operational use of force – from presence & communication, to unarmed defence & control, mechanical restraints, intermediate force and firearms. The content covers skills for delivering use of force training to personnel in ‘standard’ operational roles, but all programs can be customised to specific agency or workplace requirements. �

We are proud to offer instructor certifications in Defensive Tactics and Firearms. Instructor programs have been divided into 2 levels for accessibility and cost effectiveness. Level 1 focuses on core skills for officer safety, whilst Level 2 explores advanced concepts to further develop instructor competency and motivate an attitude of ongoing continuous improvement. All programs are progressive in format – core skills progress into intermediate and advanced concepts and methodologies – with instructors learning delivery and assessment strategies for both theory and practical components of use of force application.

ASP Instructor Certification

We are currently the only organisation in Australia certified to provide ASP Instructor Certification (AIC), the most dynamic impact weapon and restraint training available. ASP training incorporates easily remembered and devastatingly effective techniques that can be used by all personnel under actual field conditions, coupled with court defensible procedures that have reduced liability whilst improving safety. Thousands of operational personnel have learned first hand that ASP techniques work under the stress of actual street confrontations. The program has revolutionized baton and handcuff instruction, and has been implemented by agencies throughout the world, with training being conducted in 77 countries. The 3-day competency based training program is based upon a conceptual model for the use of force and teaches the ASP principles of control using the ASP Tactical Baton & Handcuffs. It focuses on instructional techniques, mechanical functions and maintenance procedures for ASP Tactical Baton & Handcuffs, and increases instructor familiarity and skill with expandable impact weapons and the full range of ASP handcuffs. The program is easy to understand and provides efficient defensive tactics for all personnel without long hours of training. The tactics are quickly learned, easily practiced and readily maintained long after the program is completed and training incorporates drills which simulate the stress of street encounters. As a realistic training program ASP instruction recognises that nothing works 100% of the time, so all ASP training retains the officer’s ability to disengage or escalate, and since there are no complicated moves the ASP program avoids the training complexities which often plague other programs. Once certified, participants are prepared to instruct other personnel in operational use of the ASP Tactical Baton & Handcuffs, for ASP Basic Certification (ABC). Instructor Recertification is recommended every 3 years. �

Firearms Instructor

This program trains participants to instruct others in the operational use of revolver and/or semi-automatic handguns. Theory content covers firearms safety, liabilities & responsibilities, mechanical operations, ballistic theory, equipment, fundamentals of survival shooting, maintenance, first aid & post crisis trauma, and documenting use of force incidents. Practical content covers carriage & presentation, handling skills & operational techniques including rectifications, dry drills & live firing, and weapon retention. Trainer content covers key principles of training & assessment, safety in training, professional ethics & standards for UOF instructors, range management including conducting hot ranges, coaching strategies, and use of drills and simulations for stress inoculation training. The program makes use of practical skill acquisition and development through extensive range practice exercises and drills. Level 1 is recognised and approved by Licensing Services Division, Victoria Police, for Security Industry Firearms Instructor certification in Victoria, with instructor certification issued through Licensing Services Division. Recertification is mandatory every 3 years (in Victoria). �

Defensive Tactics Instructor

This program presents in-depth information for instruction of operational personnel in empty hand defensive tactics, restraint & control, mechanical restraints, and intermediate force options with the expandable baton. The strategies presented are simple, practical and effective, and are designed for use by operational personnel in real world situations against real violence. Theory content covers threat assessment, interpersonal communication for conflict, understanding stress, lawful guidelines for use of force responses, human physiology, anatomy and biomechanics and fundamental combat principles and concepts. Practical content for empty hand component covers strategies for creating distance, escape countermeasures, strike theory, takedowns and ground work, low and high threat restraint and control strategies, fundamentals of weapons awareness and defence against multiple subjects. Mechanical restraints and baton components cover types of restraints and batons, carriage, lawful use and maintenance or equipment. Trainer content includes professional demeanour and presentation, safety in training, class formats and structure, using active and dynamic drills effectively, creating tactical blueprints and avoiding training scars, and general fitness for use of force incidents. Recertification is recommended every 3 years. �



PT 8 Search & Rescue





PT 9 Volunteering-State Emergency Service(Cert)

Training consists of learning a wide variety of skills that will be used and adapted in the variety of situations that volunteers may find themselves. Many of the courses undertaken result in a nationally accredited award. Some of the skill areas include:

  • General Rescue
  • Storm Damage
  • Communications
  • First Aid
  • Chainsaw Operation
  • Cliff Rescue
  • Map and Navigation
  • Land Search
  • Air Observer
  • Four Wheel Driving















PT 10 Internet Resources








PT 11 Radio Amateur Civil Emergency Service (RACES)

By Ed Harris�


Why teach “survival” in the city? �
Catastrophes vs. disasters �
This is about your SURVIVAL, not volunteering �
Priorities for human survival �
Break-out sessions: �
Shelter construction �
Fire making �
Signaling �
Equipment and supplies �
Social implications of disasters �
Personal security concerns

Why? �
Complete loss of civil infrastructure �
Minimal or no police, fire or EMS response �
No electricity, municipal water, communications �
Transport of fuel / food is severely impaired �
Public safety agencies will be overwhelmed �
Recovery is long term (over 30 days) �

Disaster V. Catastrophe �
Disasters are short term �
“Make do for 3-4 days until help arrives�” �
Catastrophic events are long term �
Katrina-scale hurricane, tsunami, earthquake �
Major terror attack, nuclear detonation, dirty bomb �
No help is coming soon, “you are on your own” �

What the military survival schools teach: �
Seven Priorities For Survival �
“Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst” �
Positive mental attitude �
First Aid / Sanitation �
Shelter �
Signaling �
Fire �
Water �
Food �

Situational awareness, basic knowledge and �
a “survivor’s mindset” enable you to cope effectively �

STOP Calm down, and size up your situation� �
THINK Anticipate which hazards are most likely �
Take stock of materials and resources around you �
OBSERVE Orient yourself to your surroundings �
PLAN Select equipment and supplies appropriately �
ACT! Execute your plan, evaluate progress, adjust, “party on.” �

Have an evacuation kit ready at all times �
Don’t presume that a disaster will be short-term �
Pack essentials first, then consider comfort items �
In real emergences, forget last-minute purchases �
Plan for more supplies than you “think” you may need �
Inspect / renew your supplies each spring and fall �
Provide entertainment for young children. �

Size Up Your Situation �
Determine Objectives (stay or evacuate?) �
Identify Resources (either stored supplies or salvaged materials from your surroundings) �
Evaluate Options (use the safest way) �
Plan (use your head) �
Act…Improvise and overcome �

Maintain personal and family health �
Prompt treatment reduces infection risk �
Sanitation reduces risk of disease vectors �
Water borne illnesses, diarrhea �
Major cause of dehydration �
Increases your survivability! �

Disaster Injury Risk Factors: �
Tool / equipment hazards, risk of hand, eye, head injuries, electric shock, chemical burns �
Human factors, stress / fatigue �
Structural instability �
Trauma risk, falls, building collapse potential �
Terrain, loose rock, fallen limbs, wet or insecure footing, risk of falls, puncture wounds and lacerations from debris. �

Disaster Contamination: �
Stagnant surface water �
Mosquito breeding �
Contaminated flood waters �
Sewage treatment system overflow �
Petroleum, industrial, agricultural chemical contamination �
Airborne contaminant plumes �
Smoke, dust, toxic gases, �
or radioactive fallout. �

Protection from the elements �
Wind and rain resistant �
Insulation from cold �

The “Stay or Evacuate” Decision �
If evacuation is not mandatory, the same safety rules �
for entering a structure apply to using your home as shelter �

There is structural damage �
(6 sides of the “box” are not plumb) �
Utilities cannot be controlled �
Structure was damaged in a fire �
DO NOT occupy a floor that has been flooded, �
micotoxins from molds are respiratory hazard! �

Best to relocate with friends or relatives outside of affected area �
Don’t rely on government-run shelters �
They are an “option of last resort” for those unable to evacuate �
Evacuation route selection is important �
Make sure your vehicle can carry essentials �
A huge “bug-out” vehicle is a handicap on crowded roads �
It uses more fuel, which may be expensive / scarce in an emergency. �
Don’t plan on fuel being available en route �
In normal times always keep your gas tank at least half full �
Upon warning an event is imminent, conserve fuel, keep tank � full �
Carry extra fuel containers outside the vehicle �

Conclusion from FEMA Urban-Rural Evacuation State Planners Workshop Sept. 2006 �
Given: �
? Population of the DC Metro area �
? Propensity to self-evacuate, overwhelmingly by automobile �
? Wide distribution of evacuation destinations, �
? Perceived vulnerability to terror attack, and anticipation of multiple attacks �
Result: �
? A large-scale, chaotic mass self-evacuation should be anticipated. �

Nuclear Detonation – 10-Kiloton Improvised Nuclear Device �
http://iis-db.stanford.edu/pubs/21872/D … Report.pdf

Contamination from a Radiological Dispersal Device (RDD) �
would cover up to a few hundred acres with low-level radioactive material; �

A nuclear detonation would affect large areas (10-100 sq. miles) �
damaged by direct effects and 100s to 1,000s of sq. miles with radioactive fallout. �
http://www.nti.org/e_research/cnwm/over … print=true

Electromagnetic Pulse (EMP) – a terrorist attack would most likely be a small device <10 kilotons yield, EMP effect of a ground burst would be mostly within the Moderate Damage Radius, but also propagated by conductors such as power and telephone lines, railroad tracks, pipelines, etc. �

Feasible only if all personnel can evacuate before fallout contamination arrives and; �
Essential functions for Continuity of Operations are transferred to an alternate facility �
Affected area would have to be small and warning time adequate to execute the evacuation �
Detonation effects (blast/thermal/EMP) will likely impede evacuation �
Evacuees may be exposed and/or contaminated. �

Critical facilities that cannot evacuate (hospitals, EOCs) must continue to operate �
Necessary if fallout/contamination would arrive before evacuation can be completed �
Fallout Shelters will be needed to protect against high level radiation/detonation �
Shelter-in-place (not necessarily Fallout Shelter) near RDD/very low level �
Shelter stay may range from a few days to 2 weeks. �
Authorities outside affected area can organize rescue/evacuation effort �
Shelter occupants may be exposed and/or contaminated. �
Necessary if operations can not be transferred or if staff, patients or clients cannot evacuate �
Necessary if needed to support operations of other response agencies �
Must have Radiological Monitoring & Exposure Control capabilities �
Critical Facilities may be used to shelter families of the staff �
Critical Facilities will not be used to shelter the general public. �

DECONTAMINATION after a flood or attack �
start immediately, even if you don’t know what the agent is. �

If you are contaminated: �
Remove everything, including jewelry �
Cut off clothing normally removed over the head �
Place contaminated clothing in plastic bag, tie closed �
Wash your hands before using them to shower �
Flush entire body with cool water �
Blot dry with absorbent cloth �
Put on clean clothes �
Avoid use of affected areas, to prevent re-exposure �
If professional help arrives, report to responders �
for thorough decontamination and medical assessment. �

Structural damage to shelter from nearby detonation �
Fire in the shelter �
Dangerously high radiation levels �
Severely high temperatures and humidity �
Oxygen and Carbon Dioxide imbalance in the shelter �
Depletion of essential supplies �
Disease and injury �
Unrest, anxiety, crime or defiance of order or authority �

Time – Fallout radiation intensity decays rapidly; �
90% in just the first 7 hours. The less time you �
spend in a radiation field, the less dose received. �

Distance – The farther you are from a source, �
the less dose you receive. �

Shielding – Denser (heavier, massive) materials �
absorb more radiation. Greater thickness of any �
given material absorbs more radiation. �

Protection Factors & Mass of Materials �
*PF = “Protection Factor” refers to the ratio between the radiation dose rate of the OUTSIDE to that INSIDE the shelter, for instance a PF = 10 means that the inside dose rate is 1/10th the outside rate. �

How Much Protection? �

PF* Lead Steel Concrete Earth Water Wood �
2 .3″” .7″ 2.0″ 3.3″ 5″ 9″ �
4 .5″ 1.5″ 5.0″ 7.0″ 10″ 15″ �
8 1.0″ 2.0″ 6.5″ 10.0″ 15″ 27″ �
16 1.2″ 3.0″ 9.0″ 14.0″ 20″ 3 ft �
32 1.5″ 4.0″ 12.0″ 15.0″ 2 ft 4 ft �
64 2.0″ 4.2″ 13.2″ 19.8″ 2.5ft 4.5 ft �
128 2.1″ 5.0″ 15.0″ 2 ft 3 ft 5 ft �
1000 3.0″ 7.0″ 22.0″ 33.0″ 4 ft – �
2000 3.3″ 7.7″ 2 ft 3 ft 4.5 ft – �

Outside radiation, divided by the Protection Factor, is reduced in proportion. For example, if the outside radiation rate is 1,000 R/hr, a person shielded by 3 ft. of earth would receive a dose rate of .5 R/hr. but a person shielded by 1 ft of earth would receive about 10 R/hr. �

Sheltering at Home During an Emergency �
For using a building without working utilities as shelter �

Exhaust – candles, camp stoves, lanterns, generators, �
heaters, charcoal grills, all generate carbon monoxide �
and must not be used indoors! �
Open flame – above ignition sources �
must never be left unattended! �
Fuel – most of the above require flammable fuels �
to operate, which must be stored outdoors. �
Use Fire Marshal approved fuel containers �

Improvised Emergency Shelters �
As in all real estate, most important is location: �
Avoid low spots with poor drainage �
Seek a gently sloped area so that surface water drains away �
Sheltered from prevailing winds �
Away from bodies of water (attracts insects and animals) �
Insulated from direct contact with ground, rock, �
or concrete, which conducts away body heat. �

Avoid as shelter: �
Areas around downed utility lines �
In or near culverts �
Within the “collapse zone” of a damaged building �
(maintain 2:1 ratio of distance away to building height) �

Improvised Shelters: �
Sheds �
Tents �
Tarps �
Vehicles �

Don’t disable a good car! �
Remove car batteries to power communications and �
shelter lighting only from cars that do not start �
If a car starts reserve it for emergency evacuation, or �
Use it as a “battery charger” �
Salvage lighting, remove dome lights, tail lights, �
trunk lights, etc. & with at least 36″ of wires. �
Position batteries in shelter; attach wires & lights �
As batteries discharge, replace with new batteries �
or recharge batteries. �

Emergency Shelter Materials: �
Salvage building materials from debris or �
from damaged structures only when it can be done safely �
Plastic sheeting �
Roofing paper and shingles �
Siding, plywood �
Chain link fence �
Lumber �
Carpeting �
Wire, rope, and fasteners �

Build Your Shelter In Layers �
Structural framing: lumber, plywood, fencing, metal �
Fasteners: reinforce structural connections with nails, wire or rope ties, wooden spikes �
Water and wind proofing: plastic sheeting, tarp, shingles, roofing paper �
Insulation: drywall, leaves, tree branches, carpeting, (may also be used as ballast to hold water/wind proofing layer in place) �


Day: Mirror flashes – best daylight signal device �
Smoke �
Brightly colored cloth flag / panel (VS-17) �
ICAO surface-to-air signals �
V Require assistance �
X Need medical assistance �
Y Yes – affirmative �
N No – negative �
? I am proceeding in this direction �

Night: Flashing strobe light �
Fire �
Signal flares �
Sound, i.e. whistle, siren, vehicle horn �

Maintains body temperature �
Great morale booster �
Deters wild animals and insects �
Boils water �
Cooks food �
Used as day (smoke) �
or night (light) signal �

Matches or lighter �
Flint and steel (Doan Machinery Corp. Fire Starter) �
Use cotton ball and petroleum jelly as tinder �
Battery and steel wool �
Fresnel lens �

Minimum for drinking �
1 gallon per person, per day �
More water is needed for �
Cooking and food preparation �
Personal hygiene, sanitation and decontamination �
Store a two week supply as minimum �
Food grade containers with screw caps �
Away from direct sunlight �

Captive water in household hot water tank and interior plumbing is OK �
Filter cloudy water to remove particulates, using an EPA-rated filter �
with a pore size ? 1 micron, then: �
Disinfect with Clorox (6% sodium hypochlorite) add 8 drops of Chlorox �
bleach per gallon if clear, 16 drops if cloudy, let water stand 15 minutes before use �
Or boil vigorously for 15 minutes �
Store potable water in clean containers. �

All natural sources (from springs, ponds, rivers or streams) �
must be boiled or chemically disinfected. �
Chemical disinfection or boiling – Kills bacteria and viruses �
Doesn’t remove particulates or chemical pollutants �
Filtration – Coffee filters, etc. remove gross particulates only �
EPA-rated filters (pore size smaller than 1 micron) are needed �
to remove bacteria, viruses and Giardia cysts, but don’t remove chemical pollutants. �
Distillation is the most effective method. �

Lowest of the seven survival priorities �
Need is mostly mental, because we are used to eating regularly �
Healthy people will do OK without food for a week or more, if they are well hydrated �
Balanced nutrition is a important health factor for elderly and infants. �

Food in a refrigerator is safe for a day after the power goes off, �
either use it in 24 hours or throw it away �
Frozen food is safe if there are still ice crystals, �
once thawed, cook and consume it within 24 hours �
Next use non-perishables and dry staples �
Canned foods are best for long term storage �
(up to 4 years) but are heavy to transport and bulky to store �
Dry packaged foods are easiest to transport �
Choose foods requiring minimal preparation �
Eat at least one balanced meal daily �
Include nutritional supplements in supplies �
Drink enough water. �

MREs, or Heater Meals �
Prepared survival rations �
Primitive survival methods: �
Fishing �
Hunting �
Trapping �
Foraging �

Folding utility knife or multi-tool �
Scout type, Leatherman, Swiss Army� �
Manual can opener, if not on utility knife �
Sturdy fixed blade, such as 5″ Military knife �
For chopping, digging, or as pry bar �
Shovel, Gerber field spade or similar �
Hand saw, #7947 Fiskars Woodzig Pruning Saw, folding 10″ �
Axe �

Each person should have their own backpack of personal essentials �
Flashlight �
Portable radio �
Extra batteries �
First Aid Kit, (containing a first aid manual) �
Personal medications and sanitation supplies �
Cooking and eating utensils �
Wool blanket or sleeping bag for each person �
Sturdy shoes and extra socks �
Rain gear �
Change of warm clothing and underwear �
Items for special needs, care of infants �

http://www.redcross.org/services/disast … y/FinPlan/

Electronic transactions, account verifications may be impossible �
Evacuate with enough cash for at least two weeks of essentials �
Carry account numbers, contact addresses and telephone numbers for all important persons and institutions �
Helping one’s unprepared friends and neighbors may prove expensive! �

Cumulative psychological effects upon survivors �

Evacuate or Stay? – Do you have a plan? �
Where will you go? Is it safe to travel? Can you REALLY get there? Do you have enough resources to make it work? �
Warn friends not to invite others to come and evacuate with them �
They’ll overwhelm your limited resources! �
Never allow family members to be separated �
Even if it means waiting for later rescue and/or evacuation �
The well prepared may be threatened by those who weren’t – get to know your neighbors NOW for a safer community later in case of a disaster �
Make plans to ensure neighborhood security/family protection �
Post a guard in rotating shifts, to deter roving criminals or looters �
Keep firearms and ammunition safely secured �
Take a home firearms safety-protection course �

Lessons from Hurricane Katrina �
When help arrives, you may get it �
“��.whether you want it or not.” �

Don’t believe that all rescuers will respect your property �
Relief workers from other States often don’t know local laws �
Relief organizations have their own bureaucratic requirements that may conflict with your needs �
Expect frustration over lack of communication and empathy by rescuers and local/State government. �

Positive attitude – Stop Think Observe Plan �
First Aid / Sanitation – Maintain proper hygiene, preserve family health, prevent illness or injury �
Shelter – Protection from environmental hazards – use Time, Distance, Shielding �
Signaling / Communication- be heard / seen �
Fire – Warmth, light, food prep, water sterilization �
Water – Prevent water-borne illnesses through filtration, chemical sterilization, boiling or distillation �
Food – Eat at least one balanced meal daily, drink enough water, include nutritional supplements �
Equipment- Flashlight, knife, saw, axe, shovel �
Planning – Prepare a Kit, Make A Plan! �

PT 12 SES PDF Downloads


Vertical Rescue

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  • pre-rig.pdf: Pre-rigging Training Module (PDF file). Pre-rigging is the way to improve vertical rescue response times by reducing rigging time on the scene. Includes tips for pre-rigging common systems, and for deciding what to pre-rig and what not to.
  • prusiks.pdf: A 1 page fact sheet (PDF file) on prusik loops (currently incorporated into NSW SES VR training package).
  • scripts.pdf: Vertical Rescue Scripts (PDF file). These scripts demonstrate the correct usage for vertical rescue prowords (calls and commands that have an extended meaning). Useful to resinforce the extanded meaning of the prowords with learners. Helps to use prowords to their fullest, minimise confusion and communication problems on the job.
  • Spanlines.pdf: A 1 page fact sheet (PDF file) on spanlines: that is highlines, flying foxes, cableways, zip lines, etc. Includes notes on tensioning so you can’t over-tension the spanline.
  • sustrauma.pdf: Suspension Trauma Training Module (PDF file). Every Vertical Rescue needs to know this! How to keep yourself and your casualty safe from it. Suspension trauma is also known by many other names: harness induced pathology, haness hang syndrome, etc.
  • vector.pdf: Vector or Force Analysis Training Module for Vertical Rescuers. A simple method to work out the real forces in any rope system. Helps rescuers to understand forces in their rig and hence be safer riggers.
  • BelayBehaviour.pdf: Rescue Belay Behaviour – A Theoretical Analysis of rescue belay behaviour which highlights previously not considered hazards of rescue belays as published in Technical Rescue Magazine. A must read for all vertical rescuers. (>800K PDF file).
  • Equipment_Testing-Kiama_VRPDW.pdf: Report on destructive testing of vertical rescue equipment from the Kiama VR Trainer Professional development Weekend 2004. (>900K PDF file).
  • Friction Testing and Pulley Systems in Vertical Rescue.pdf: Results of practical friction testing of common vertical rescue pulleys done by Oberon SES. Results are applied to common VR haul systems to illustrate actual mechanical advantages of haul systems.
  • Load Testing.pdf: More destructive load testing results of VR equipment by Oberon SES. (1.1M PDF file).
  • LRFAnalysis.pdf: Report on Finite Element Analysis modelling of a Larkin Rescue Frame with particular interest in the factors that affect “step back”. Good practical tips on how to prevent step back in your Larkin Frame!
  • Vertical Rescue Friction Testing.pdf: Practical friction test results of some common rescue pulleys. (1.4M PDF file).
  • VR Load Testing Wellington.pdf: Report of destructive load tests carried ou on VR equipment at the Wellington VR Professional Development weekend 2004. (1.8M PDF file).

Land Search

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  • sarcalc2.zip: Microsof Excel Worksheet for calculation of Land Search Probabilities of Area (POAs). Free download. You will need Winzip to unzip the archive.
  • MUSHPSAR.HTM: Survival Tips for Mushroom Pickers. Every year hundreds of people come to the pine forests surrounding Oberon to pick mushrooms. Around one or two each year get lost requiring a land search. Here are some things you can do so that you aren’t one of them!
  • bushsafe.htm: Tips for bushwalkers and other adventurous people who use the bush to be safe and reduce the risk of needing a search or rescue.


Right click links to Open in New Window or Save Target As, or use your browser back button to return to this page after viewing resources.�

  • LIGHTNIN.HTM: Outdoor Lightning Protection and Safety. Everyone should know than when lightning is about they should be indoors… but what if you can’t get there? Here’s some tips collected from a wide variety of sources.
  • beaufort.htm: The Beaufort Scale for estimating wind speed…with descriptors for use on land or sea.

Miscellaneous Resources

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  • JUDGEDIS.HTM: Judging Distance. Judging distances is a valuable skill to a lot of people including navigators, land searchers, and most things SES volunteers do. This page includes the normal three methods described in most Map Reading texts plus another method based on visibility of features – adapted from Coastal Skipper Training course for use on land.
  • impnav.htm: The Bushwalker’s Guide to the Galaxy… or How to Navigate the Surface of the Earth with less than a GPS or Compass. Improvised navigation skills increase not only yor skill as a navigator, but your knowledge of your surroundings.


Our Remote Area Search Assessment Instrument [Word document]

One-page GPS instruction summary sheets for Garmin eTrex, Gecko and 12XL GPS units [Zipped PDF documents]

A locally developed Map Reading and Navigation presentation [PowerPoint, 1.6MB]

Our Cordless Nail Gun Training Package [Zip archive containing Manual, Lesson Plan and Assessment Instrument PDF files]

Our Summary Cards [PDF file, 3.5MB] Revised: November 2008

Our Field Team Leader Training Package [PDF file, 1MB] Revised: September 2009