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My Bug Out Bag Update PT-1 Intro
Over the years I have ended up with so much gear that I decided to cut back and sell off much of it to fund other projects and to finish off my existing preps. For instance my knife collection has been cut by ¾’s, along with many of my other interests, such as archery. Anything that wasn’t being used on a regular basis or couldn’t fit into existing equipment requirements was to go. I also had a lot of gear that would now be classed as old technology that required updating. Lanterns that could now be powered by winding them up and last most of the night using LED technology for example to reduce battery use and the need to store fuels. As for my BOB, my health requirements made it difficult to carry backpacks. So I now used a large 511 roller bag for my main storage requirements. However I also kept two of my smaller 35 litre and 45 litre packs as backups. There are many short comings in the current perception in the use of BOB’s. This idea I thought, was mainly held by only a few but have now found more and more people thinking along the same lines as seen in the articles and links posted below. A 3 day BOB will only get you so far and then you become a refugee. They were designed many years ago when just needing to leave your home for a short amount of time and then intending to return or when travelling to a retreat. Many are still homeless, years after a natural disaster has occurred. My idea is to stay in place for 2 months and then travel in my Bug Out Vehicle which is a bus in order to never be a refugee and still be able to carry another 4 months of food and equipment and always have a roof over my head. If an event were to occur in my area, I will never be going back. Even then I have made arrangements for a backup in the event to bus were to become unliveable. But by using this system I can stay anywhere without becoming a burden on others and still remain discreet about my location. If one area were to become uninhabitable then I can simply move to another, provided the fuel is available. Just try buying ammunition in bulk and seeing how far you can carry 600 rounds in a back pack, or simply using small first aid kits that were never designed for a full scale emergency and see how far they will help. So the way I’m now designing the use of my BOB’s is a large bag for what you’d refer to as a long term bob or a comfort bob to use the equipment stored in it to make a long term camp more comfortable. The smaller bags are mainly to hold excess gear that would be classed as your traditional short term bobs for backup use and caches. I’m not far from country areas but they usually only grow seasonally or specific crops. City areas offer me much better forms of scrounging, especially when most country areas rely on goods being transported from the cities. These will be the first to run out of supplies. I plan on being close enough to the major towns to forage but far enough away so nobody knows I’m there. I can’t afford a retreat so a large vehicle is my compromise to a permanent retreat by having a mobile version. More on equipment updates in later posts. The Bug Out Problem By Harry Tuttle (Edited) – A Reasonable Life Blog Are you planning to be a Refugee or a Looter? That’s the question posed by Harry Dexter White. And, I think it’s well worth considering. To quote him directly: “People talk about guns too much. People talk about bugging out too much. There are two words for people who plan to “bug out”: “Refugee” and “Looter” …Some people pack and repack their BOB so they can GOOD when the SHTF at TEOTWAKI. Some wise guy said, “Don’t run. You’ll just die tired.” Carrying an AR-10 on your walk to the superdome is just going to make you tired faster….How many days of food do they recommend carrying in their BOB? After that, what? Foraging isn’t that easy now, let alone when the woods are crawling with competition. If you are foraging with 300 million other people, you are starving to death. The successful foragers will starve a little more slowly, but that seems like cold comfort. The whole premise is that there would not be food to buy and precious little to steal. Bugging out always comes back to looting in the end. These comments, by the way, were made in response to the article at The Truth about Guns and another at American Rifleman. Both address the problem of choosing a single survival firearm for the purpose of bugging out. Thankfully, we can count on our HDW to help re-orient the question to first priorities. It can be a useful proposition to think about optimal solutions, either for the sake of simplicity or to be used as a simple mental exercise. But, Mr White is right about this: If your first plan of action in a worst case scenario is to “bug out”, you’re already in deep poop. If all you’re planning for is a “small crisis”….such as a flood, hurricane or earthquake, for instance, well, having a “72-hour” emergency kit (or Bug Out Bag) makes good sense, doesn’t it? That’s just prudent. But, on the other hand, if you truly believe that there’s a reasonable chance that the world as you know it will go to hell in a hand basket and you’re sitting there in middle of urban/suburban Disneyland (errr, “the superdome”), then Mr White is quite correct. Assuming you make it out of the city at all, is it then your plan to camp out in my pasture? Is that really all you’re thinking? No, of course not…..you’re planning on an extended survival excursion into the city park, right? Oh, you’ve got a national forest nearby? (As it happens, so do we.) That’s dandy, so how your taste for is grubs and foot fungus? Is your wife up to speed on this plan? Or your five-year old daughter? Oh, you’ll let them go the Superdome without you? Good thinking. This is just a guess, but I’d have to estimate that 90% or better of those purporting to be engaged in some manner of ”preparedness” are (as HDW has also said) only engaged in some sort of “fantasy football”. Why? Simply because you live somewhere that you know is untenable and your “retreat” doesn’t exist. But, hopefully this is the sort of mental exercise that will lead to a somewhat more practical approach to the problem. James Wesley Rawles on the subject: “Live at Your Retreat Year-Round. If your financial and family circumstances allow it, I strongly recommend that you relocate to a safe area and live there year-round. This has several advantages most notably that will prevent burglary of your retreat logistics and allow you to regularly tend to gardens, orchards, and livestock. It will also remove the stress of timing a “Get Out of Dodge” trip at the 11th hour. If circumstances dictate that you can’t live at your retreat year round, then at least have a caretaker and stock the vast majority of your logistics in advance, since you may only have one trip there before roads are impassable.” As I stated at the beginning, however, it’s still useful to consider simplifying your defensive logistics and (as even Rawles notes) having some kind of Plan B (and Plan C), even if you’re well situated for a disaster. On that score, planning some kind of B.O.B or G.O.O.D. kit may be worth your while. Responses to The “Bug Out” Problem I have a BOB, retreat location and alternate. I intend to stay put during an emergency BUT let’s say during that emergency (economy or natural) your location becomes unlivable due to wildfire, storm or other unforeseeable. You can go to FEMA or Bug out. In this case it is better to have a BOB and Bug out location, Firearm, medical, etc. pre-planned. I am retired Air Force and we ALWAYS had primary, secondary and tertiary locations for every function and dispersed assets so “all our eggs etc.” Many will argue best case scenarios but you have to plan for as many contingencies as possible (budget, time, health and ability) and then leave the rest to God. In the end you are increasing you CHANCES of survival and comfort during a life event knowing this will be a SEASON in your life and eventually you will either get back to or define a new normal. Reply Agreed, always need a Plan B, even a Plan C, right? Unfortunately, quite a few that I know have put way too much hope on a wholly inadequate Plan A. Harry Tuttle A Reasonable Life http://areasonablelife.wordpress.com/2011/01/02/the-bug-out-problem/ The truth about Guns http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2010/12/robert-farago/american-riflemans-bug-out-gun-armalite-ar-10-huh/ American Rifleman http://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/bug-out-bag-gun/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Bug-Out-text&utm_campaign=BFR Rawles Precepts http://www.survivalblog.com/precepts.html Realities of Bugging Out http://www.abovetopsecret.com/forum/thread335024/pg1 Transitioning to a 7 day BOB http://www.survivalblog.com/2010/06/transitioning_to_seven_day_bug.html
Last Updated (Sunday, 24 November 2013 15:55)
Budda's Glock Build
This is an article I put together a while ago, while trying to learn about building glocks and aftermarket parts. Finally have all the components and have started building it. Updates and pics to follow. I ended up with building a Glock over other model pistols due to the ease of aftermarket parts and 10 minutes on youtube will let you do all the work yourself without having to need a gunsmith.
Building a Glock Research
I was undecided on whether to start and do a build on a custom STI tactical 4.15 with an extended 5 inch barrel to be of legal length in oz or buy a Glock and came across the following picture on the m4carbine forum, which sort of settled the choice for me. That and finding several Australian importers of glock parts, that hadn’t been available to me in the past making buying the accessories and parts much easier than importing from overseas due to current import restrictions. It also allowed me to do most of the work myself, unlike working on a STI 2011. http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=95628
The following link describes how to break the trigger down into its separate components, in order to understand how modifying each one can change the characteristics of the trigger and gun as a whole. http://militarytimes.com/blogs/gearscout/2012/01/01/glock-setup-tips/
There are three main components to the Glock trigger action that determine pull weight: the connector, firing pin spring, and trigger spring. I will be discussing these along with barrel choices, guide rod recoil springs, guide rod weight and combinations of these. The following information is all I could find to learn about building a Glock, since I had never owned one before.
Firstly Guide Rods;
To start with in Glocks guide rods have absolutely no effect on the accuracy of your pistol. In a standard 1911 the guide rod, being so short, only guides the spring at the end of the rearward action. This allows the spring to move from side to side in the frame channel and could allow interference. The full length guide rod forces the spring to stay centered and slide along the guide rod reducing the interference. Ti is worthless for guide rods, you want heavier not lighter. Steel is only slightly heavier but if you are really in tune with your gun you can feel a subtle difference in the handling. Tungsten is much heavier than steel and makes a significant difference.
Below are some guiderod weights. Aftermarket rods are all same brand. Weights do not include the recoil spring.
Stock 17 2.04 grams = 0.071 ounce
Captured Stainless 17 18.3 gr = 0.645 oz
Cap Tungsten 17 34.18 gr = 1.206 oz
Non-cap Tungsten 34 44.56 gr = 1.572 oz
When compared to stock the tungsten is significantly heavier. When compared to stainless the tungsten is almost double the weight. Here is where it gets real interesting. An empty G17 weighs 625 grams. Adding a captured tungsten rod increases the total weight of the gun by more than 5% and in a key location. An empty g34 weighs in at 650 grams. With an extended tungsten rod you are increasing the total weight by almost 7%.
Something that weighs less than 2 ounces may not seems like much but it does make a significant difference in recovery from recoil.
My personal view
I’m using a model 22 in 40cal and converting it to a 9mm. This will bring up the barrel wall thickness and also the front weight of the firearm. I am therefore sticking to a steel guide rod. If I were using a stock thickness competition barrel I would then use a Tungsten rod.
Captured Vs. Non-Captured;
I personally use non captured rods. It is easier to swap out springs and with a little practice it is not any harder to assemble your pistol. There is no mechanical advantage or disadvantage to either, it’s just personal preference. If using a single load, such as when reloading a captured system is easier to install when cleaning. It’s similar to a bolt with a nut on the end that keeps the spring under tension. The advantage of non-captured is when working up loads or using more than one type of factory load and wanting to tune the firearm to the load being used. I generally use three different loads. A 147 grain subsonic at 980fps, my usual load is a Hornady steel match 125 grain running at 1100fps that cost $280 per 500 and ex-military FMJ plus P loads which cost $350 per 1000 rounds. An uncaptured spring set up allows me to change them out using a $12 spring, whereas with a captured system you have to replace the entire guide rod and spring.
KKM vs. Stormlake vs. Lonewolf. There are three links below comparing the three brands. From what I can tell there isn’t that much difference. If I were to choose a standard wall thickness match grade barrel, to fit in a standard slide assembly 9mm to 9mm, without opting to use a conversion/bull barrel 40smith to 9mm luger. I would probably choose a KKM due to the type manufacture, using button rifling.
Button rifling is a process, in which a Titanium Nitride coated Carbide button is pulled under pressure to displace metal to produce a rifled barrel. This process is very expensive but produces a better finished size, surface finish, and surface hardness as well as maintains a more uniform rate of twist than any other rifling process. Each button can be used to produce thousands a barrels before wearing undersized. This allows us to maintain the highest level of quality control.
That’s if I wanted to wait 6 months for the import process to occur in this country and could be bothered filling out B709 forms. If choosing a bull barrel style conversion it would be between a Stormlake and a Lonewolf as KKM don’t make a conversion barrel. The same import process would be required for the Stormlake. Lonewolf have an importer listed below. Hence the lonewolf is my choice.
Note: I have been told that KKM barrels are very tight and some require minor fitting.
The NY trigger are a coil spring within a frame as opposed to factory coil spring, the modules alter the internal geometry and relationship of the trigger linkage. You now have a spring pushing straight up on the back of the cruciform, instead of applying pressure at an angle. The result is a smooth trigger pull and a clean break, with a lightning-fast reset.
Dawson are just reselling the Glock Triggers kit. It removes pre-travel and gives a nice trigger: reduced travel and light pull, not for use on anything but a competition gun. I would offer one word of caution: you need to be very careful about setting the over travel stop and make sure that it does not creep out of adjustment, by using a little blue Loctite.
The Ghost Rocket is not a trigger kit, it is just a connector with a fixed over travel stop that needs to be fitted to an individual gun by filing. It works well, but it is not a complete trigger kit.
NOTE; If you have a Glock that has a couple thousand rounds through it your trigger is already lapped in. If you replace the trigger bar or connector in this gun, it will feel terrible. Any part that is replaced into a lapped system needs to be lapped in itself before a reliable evaluation can be made.
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