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GO vs CHESS in relation to STRATEGY and TACTICS
- Discovered Attacks
- Removing the Guard
- Piece Mobility
- Piece Safety
- King Safety
- Pawn Structure
Budda's Glock Build
This is an article I put together a while ago, while trying to learn about building glocks and aftermarket parts. Finally have all the components and have started building it. Updates and pics to follow. I ended up with building a Glock over other model pistols due to the ease of aftermarket parts and 10 minutes on youtube will let you do all the work yourself without having to need a gunsmith.
Building a Glock Research
I was undecided on whether to start and do a build on a custom STI tactical 4.15 with an extended 5 inch barrel to be of legal length in oz or buy a Glock and came across the following picture on the m4carbine forum, which sort of settled the choice for me. That and finding several Australian importers of glock parts, that hadn’t been available to me in the past making buying the accessories and parts much easier than importing from overseas due to current import restrictions. It also allowed me to do most of the work myself, unlike working on a STI 2011. http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=95628
The following link describes how to break the trigger down into its separate components, in order to understand how modifying each one can change the characteristics of the trigger and gun as a whole. http://militarytimes.com/blogs/gearscout/2012/01/01/glock-setup-tips/
There are three main components to the Glock trigger action that determine pull weight: the connector, firing pin spring, and trigger spring. I will be discussing these along with barrel choices, guide rod recoil springs, guide rod weight and combinations of these. The following information is all I could find to learn about building a Glock, since I had never owned one before.
Firstly Guide Rods;
To start with in Glocks guide rods have absolutely no effect on the accuracy of your pistol. In a standard 1911 the guide rod, being so short, only guides the spring at the end of the rearward action. This allows the spring to move from side to side in the frame channel and could allow interference. The full length guide rod forces the spring to stay centered and slide along the guide rod reducing the interference. Ti is worthless for guide rods, you want heavier not lighter. Steel is only slightly heavier but if you are really in tune with your gun you can feel a subtle difference in the handling. Tungsten is much heavier than steel and makes a significant difference.
Below are some guiderod weights. Aftermarket rods are all same brand. Weights do not include the recoil spring.
Stock 17 2.04 grams = 0.071 ounce
Captured Stainless 17 18.3 gr = 0.645 oz
Cap Tungsten 17 34.18 gr = 1.206 oz
Non-cap Tungsten 34 44.56 gr = 1.572 oz
When compared to stock the tungsten is significantly heavier. When compared to stainless the tungsten is almost double the weight. Here is where it gets real interesting. An empty G17 weighs 625 grams. Adding a captured tungsten rod increases the total weight of the gun by more than 5% and in a key location. An empty g34 weighs in at 650 grams. With an extended tungsten rod you are increasing the total weight by almost 7%.
Something that weighs less than 2 ounces may not seems like much but it does make a significant difference in recovery from recoil.
My personal view
I’m using a model 22 in 40cal and converting it to a 9mm. This will bring up the barrel wall thickness and also the front weight of the firearm. I am therefore sticking to a steel guide rod. If I were using a stock thickness competition barrel I would then use a Tungsten rod.
Captured Vs. Non-Captured;
I personally use non captured rods. It is easier to swap out springs and with a little practice it is not any harder to assemble your pistol. There is no mechanical advantage or disadvantage to either, it’s just personal preference. If using a single load, such as when reloading a captured system is easier to install when cleaning. It’s similar to a bolt with a nut on the end that keeps the spring under tension. The advantage of non-captured is when working up loads or using more than one type of factory load and wanting to tune the firearm to the load being used. I generally use three different loads. A 147 grain subsonic at 980fps, my usual load is a Hornady steel match 125 grain running at 1100fps that cost $280 per 500 and ex-military FMJ plus P loads which cost $350 per 1000 rounds. An uncaptured spring set up allows me to change them out using a $12 spring, whereas with a captured system you have to replace the entire guide rod and spring.
KKM vs. Stormlake vs. Lonewolf. There are three links below comparing the three brands. From what I can tell there isn’t that much difference. If I were to choose a standard wall thickness match grade barrel, to fit in a standard slide assembly 9mm to 9mm, without opting to use a conversion/bull barrel 40smith to 9mm luger. I would probably choose a KKM due to the type manufacture, using button rifling.
Button rifling is a process, in which a Titanium Nitride coated Carbide button is pulled under pressure to displace metal to produce a rifled barrel. This process is very expensive but produces a better finished size, surface finish, and surface hardness as well as maintains a more uniform rate of twist than any other rifling process. Each button can be used to produce thousands a barrels before wearing undersized. This allows us to maintain the highest level of quality control.
That’s if I wanted to wait 6 months for the import process to occur in this country and could be bothered filling out B709 forms. If choosing a bull barrel style conversion it would be between a Stormlake and a Lonewolf as KKM don’t make a conversion barrel. The same import process would be required for the Stormlake. Lonewolf have an importer listed below. Hence the lonewolf is my choice.
Note: I have been told that KKM barrels are very tight and some require minor fitting.
The NY trigger are a coil spring within a frame as opposed to factory coil spring, the modules alter the internal geometry and relationship of the trigger linkage. You now have a spring pushing straight up on the back of the cruciform, instead of applying pressure at an angle. The result is a smooth trigger pull and a clean break, with a lightning-fast reset.
Dawson are just reselling the Glock Triggers kit. It removes pre-travel and gives a nice trigger: reduced travel and light pull, not for use on anything but a competition gun. I would offer one word of caution: you need to be very careful about setting the over travel stop and make sure that it does not creep out of adjustment, by using a little blue Loctite.
The Ghost Rocket is not a trigger kit, it is just a connector with a fixed over travel stop that needs to be fitted to an individual gun by filing. It works well, but it is not a complete trigger kit.
NOTE; If you have a Glock that has a couple thousand rounds through it your trigger is already lapped in. If you replace the trigger bar or connector in this gun, it will feel terrible. Any part that is replaced into a lapped system needs to be lapped in itself before a reliable evaluation can be made.
Emergency Back Up for Type 1 Diabetics
The storm season is coming again and with it brings memories of Hurricane Charlie. For those that don’t remember, Hurricane Charlie was a category 4 hurricane that landed unexpectedly in Charlotte County, Florida. It took only three days for FEMA and the National Guard to come in and help, but in other hurricanes, it took longer. Much too long for people with type 1 Diabetes and no way to keep their insulin the proper temperature. (I’ve heard that insulin needs to be kept cool otherwise it will break down.) Coolers help for a day or two, but if you are caught off guard, you might not have the ice necessary to properly chill the medication. If it lasts for more than two to three days, you’ll be very concerned about trying to find more ice.
Then I saw the answer in an offroad magazine. Portable mini fridges.
These mini refrigerators are designed tough and have been engineered to withstand the jostles, bumps, and bangs that come with driving off road in the cab or in the bed of a truck.
They run off a 12 volt system and plug into the cars lighter socket. This means they use low amounts of energy which is good when electricity is scarce.
They also have an adapter that lets you use a standard plug so you can plug it into a generator or anywhere there is a 110 outlet.
Here’s two that I found online.
The first is by Waeco:
This is the company I read about in the magazine. A cooler sized model was tied to the bed of a pickup that drove over 500 miles of washboard roads, powder dust, hidden pot holes, and river crossings. It never failed. It kept everything cool even though it was outside of the vehicle and had the sun beating down on it. Waeco also makes an insulated cover for it so it doesn’t have to work as hard in the heat.
My biggest concern about this fridge is the price. They range from $300 to $400 for the inboard small one to $700+ for s cooler sized one. And that’s without the cover.
There are people out there who just can’t afford that and I want to give them an optional choice more suited to their budget. After a little searching, I found this:
The Koolatron 29 quart cooler.
It too is a 12 volt system that plugs into the cigarette plug in your car, but you have to buy the 110 volt adapter plug separately if you want to plug it into a generator or other regular outlet.
The good news is the price. The list price is $160 for the cooler and Amazon has it listed for $117.00 without the adapter plug. (The adapter plug goes for around $40.00.)
I have no reports or reviews of this refrigerator other than what people posted at Amazon. Read them and decide if this will work for you.
While not having to deal with an emergency is ideal, these two refrigerators give a little help to diabetics that have to deal with a storm or other emergency. Having these fridges able to be powered by a car battery gives you a way to keep your insulin cold if you lose power to your house. It also gives you a way to safely transport it if you have to travel a long distance. If worse comes to worse and your car is destroyed in the event, you can pull out the battery from the remains, yank the plug off the wires, strip the insulation off the wires and tie them to the battery terminals themselves to get the power. It’s not ideal, but it’ll work.
Going through the cleanup after a storm is bad enough. Being able to do it without worrying about insulin is a game changer. Stay safe and stay strong.
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