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Knife Collection

This is my current collection of knives, minus those Im in the process of selling. I hope to get some pictures up once a few return from being modified.


Machetes/Goloks/Wakashai's Rambo 4 1095 Golok 12" 6mm Rambo 4 1060 Golok 12" 6mm Swamprat Waki 17" (SR-77) Valiant Survival Golok Medium 14.5" William Nease Naga 14" (S7)   Cold Steel Kukri Mini Gurka Lite 9.5" 1095 Bushman 7" 1095 Recon Scout 5.5" 1080 Urban Dart FGX Tanto 6" Scottish Spike 3.5" FGX Skean Dhu Rajah 3 Mini Tuff lite? Counter Point 4"? Hold Out 3" Recon 1 Tanto 4"   Jensen Elite Blades (D2) PPK Warncliffe 2.5" PPK Upswept tip 2.5" PPK Reverse tanto 2.5" Mini Adze 1075 Kukri 8" Kukri 9.5" G10 & Micarta Frequent Flyers Beast Tanto 7"   Busse Knives (INFI steel) Battle Mistess (8.5" modified) 2007 LE 0.320 Badger Attack 2007 LE 5" 0.270 Game Warden Fatty 0.270   Swamp Rat Knife Works (SR-101) Swamp Warden 3" Parawrap   Nessmuks Karim Haddad Tharwa Valley Forge 4.25" 5120 Birch burl MuskratMan Mini L6 Afzelia 3.0" Breeden mini survival tin nessy   Paul Fenech - Custom Knives and Sticks Talisman Bushcraft 4.25" 52100 4mm Masur Birch   Boker Vox Rhino Prymate Gnome   Double Edged Blades Sog Pentagon Boot Knife 4" Boker Applegate/Fairbairn 6" Desert Boker Applegate/Fairbairn 4.5 Desert Storm Kershaw Amphibian 3" Smith HRT 3" Richard Derespina Model 11 Karambit 3.5" ATS-34 CRKT AG Russel Sting 1050 Cold Steel Safe Maker I 4.5" Gerber Applegate Covert Boker Applegate/Fairbarn 4.8" SOG Northwest Ranger Spear Point 5"   Extrema Ratio (N690) Shrapnel 4"   Esee RC-5 SERE 5"   KaBar Tdi Ankle 3.5" Tdi large drop point Becker 1095 BK 2 BK 5?   Spyderco (VG-10) Spyderco Featherweight FB-101 3" Spyderco Delica Spyderco Pikal Mule Team 6 CPM-S35V   Becker Knives (0170-6) Becker Necker BK11 3.25" BK&T BK2 Companion 5.25" BK&T Tac Tool 7"   Gene Ingram Knives Gene Ingram Pocket Warncliffe 2" D2 Sea Cow   Gerber Pro Scout 600 Multi Tool Compact Sport 400 Multi Tool Clutch Multi Tool LMF Tactical 5" (Original model) Steadfast 5" Shard   Leatherman Charge Ti multi tool   Misc Parasite Blades/Neckers Atwood Micro Card S30V 1.5" x 1" x 1/8th Micro Tech Credit Card Titanium CRKT Bear Claw Boker Bud Nealy Spear Point Fallkniven WM Katz Caper Branton Knives Urban Defender Anso Pikal Foxwell Warncliffe necker Benchmade Tether WT Warren Thomas Shikra Ti/G10-Warncliffe /Pikal Tinbasher Ti- Micro Card Tinbasher Ti- C.A.R.D Covert and Rescue Card   Mission Knives Mission Knives MBK-TI 4" Mission Knives MPK-A2 5"?   BK Johnson Knives (O1 Steel) Busse Police Recruit Copy 3/16 Kiradashi 1.5"x 3 7/8th" Kiradashi Parawrap Altoid Tin Kiradahsi Altoid Tin Drop Point   TOPS Knives (1095 steel) Ferret Wortac 5 Hoffman Harpoon Small Hoffman Harpoon Mini Alert 01 Bagdad Boxcutter Cammo Street Scalpel UTE XL Hunters point Game Warden? Pry Knife?   Rescue Tools Benchmade 7 Rescue Hook Colonial knife Company TAT Cutter ResQme Key Ring Tool CRKT Belt Cutter   Swiss Army Knives Victorinox Swiss Army Rescue Tool Victorinox Swiss Army Trekker   Cariboo Blades ULU 8" L6 Moose Crook Knife L6 Yew (sml 6# hook/med grip)   Axes Firestone belt axe Lee Reeves double bit camp (Nessmuk style) 1018/1080 Cocobola Fiskar lge 20" Gerber Sport 14" Gerber Paxe 9" Gransfors Bruks Wildlife hatchet TOPS Mini Max modified to survival axe RMJ Forge Shrike 13" TOPS Joe Hawk* Emerson CQC-T? Hibbon Double Headed                                          

Sanitation: Post SHTF


Sanitation Post SHTF (Before #&*! Hits the Floor)

When I first starting looking at alternative options for a sanitation system, in case the grid went down. I thought of buying a composting toilet. This was primarily for a bus that Im rebuilding. At close to two grand for a small model seemed way out of my price range. Ive had to use chemical porta-potty's in the past and absolutely dispise having to empty them. They also need cleaning every few days. A composting version may only need emptying every few months. Depending on use. For short term use I brought a Reliance Luggable Loo, essentually a bucket with a toilet seat for a lid which requires the following to operate. Which is not really a sustainable longer term option. 
Supplies for Emergency Sanitation Toilet 
Plastic or metal 5 gallon bucket. 
5 gallon bucket snap on toilet seat lid. 
Heavy duty plastic trash bags large enough to line the 5 gallon bucket with room to spare. 
50# Bag of powdered, chlorinated lime. This product is also referred to as calcium Hypochlorite or Bleaching Powder and can be found at pool supply stores. 
Borax found at your local grocery store. 
Spoon with long handle. 
Toilet Paper 
Tips on Using Your Emergency Sanitation Toilet 
Line your 5 gallon bucket with heavy duty plastic bags.Never let your bucket get more than half full before disposing of waste.After each use of the toilet, use the spoon with long handle to scoop about a tablespoon of powdered, chlorinated lime on the waste. This helps to break down the waste.After each use of the toilet, use the spoon with long handle to scoop about a tablespoon of borax on the waste. This helps to reduce odors.When you need to dispose of the waste, find a location at least 48' from any dwelling, water supply, animals, and garden. Dig a hole at least 18 inches deep and at least 48' downstream or away from any water source (Dogs can smell through dirt up to 16 inches and they will dig up human waste) Place the bag full of waste in the hold and bury. Mark the site for future removal if it becomes necessary. 
Items to store in the bucket: 
5 Gallon Bucket w/ Snap-on Toilet Seat Lid 
2 rolls Toilet Paper 
1 Disinfectant Wipes 35 ct (for cleaning) 
1 pkg Wet Wipes 90 ct 
2 pr Latex Gloves 
1 Hand Sanitizer 
12 Bio-Blue Deodorizing Packets 
6 Double Doodie Plus w/ Gel Toilet Bags 
I then discovered the Humanure Handbook and lovable Loo's. Simple construction and they only require the use of saw dust to break down waste. Cant get much easier than that, for emergency use and will look quite good in my bus. Simply cover waste with a layer of saw dust and when the bucket is filled to the correct height, cover with a lid and exchange buckets for later composting 
Disaster Toilet 
Humanure Handbook PDF 
Build your own Waterless toilet 
Budget Composting toilets 
Lovable Loo 
How to build a Saw Dust Toilet 
Sawdust Toilets 
Home Made Composting Toilets 

Budda's Glock Build

Part 1

This is an article I put together a while ago, while trying to learn about building glocks and aftermarket parts. Finally have all the components and have started building it. Updates and pics to follow. I ended up with building a Glock over other model pistols due to the ease of aftermarket parts and 10 minutes on youtube will let you do all the work yourself without having to need a gunsmith.

Building a Glock Research

I was undecided on whether to start and do a build on a custom STI tactical 4.15 with an extended 5 inch barrel to be of legal length in oz or buy a Glock and came across the following picture on the m4carbine forum, which sort of settled the choice for me. That and finding several Australian importers of glock parts, that hadn’t been available to me in the past making buying the accessories and parts much easier than importing from overseas due to current import restrictions. It also allowed me to do most of the work myself, unlike working on a STI 2011. http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=95628

The following link describes how to break the trigger down into its separate components, in order to understand how modifying each one can change the characteristics of the trigger and gun as a whole. http://militarytimes.com/blogs/gearscout/2012/01/01/glock-setup-tips/

There are three main components to the Glock trigger action that determine pull weight: the connector, firing pin spring, and trigger spring. I will be discussing these along with barrel choices, guide rod recoil springs, guide rod weight and combinations of these. The following information is all I could find to learn about building a Glock, since I had never owned one before.

Firstly Guide Rods;

To start with in Glocks guide rods have absolutely no effect on the accuracy of your pistol. In a standard 1911 the guide rod, being so short, only guides the spring at the end of the rearward action. This allows the spring to move from side to side in the frame channel and could allow interference. The full length guide rod forces the spring to stay centered and slide along the guide rod reducing the interference. Ti is worthless for guide rods, you want heavier not lighter. Steel is only slightly heavier but if you are really in tune with your gun you can feel a subtle difference in the handling. Tungsten is much heavier than steel and makes a significant difference.

Below are some guiderod weights. Aftermarket rods are all same brand. Weights do not include the recoil spring.

Stock 17 2.04 grams = 0.071 ounce

Captured Stainless 17 18.3 gr = 0.645 oz

Cap Tungsten 17 34.18 gr = 1.206 oz

Non-cap Tungsten 34 44.56 gr = 1.572 oz

When compared to stock the tungsten is significantly heavier. When compared to stainless the tungsten is almost double the weight. Here is where it gets real interesting. An empty G17 weighs 625 grams. Adding a captured tungsten rod increases the total weight of the gun by more than 5% and in a key location. An empty g34 weighs in at 650 grams. With an extended tungsten rod you are increasing the total weight by almost 7%.

Something that weighs less than 2 ounces may not seems like much but it does make a significant difference in recovery from recoil.

My personal view

I’m using a model 22 in 40cal and converting it to a 9mm. This will bring up the barrel wall thickness and also the front weight of the firearm. I am therefore sticking to a steel guide rod. If I were using a stock thickness competition barrel I would then use a Tungsten rod.

Captured Vs. Non-Captured;

I personally use non captured rods. It is easier to swap out springs and with a little practice it is not any harder to assemble your pistol. There is no mechanical advantage or disadvantage to either, it’s just personal preference. If using a single load, such as when reloading a captured system is easier to install when cleaning. It’s similar to a bolt with a nut on the end that keeps the spring under tension. The advantage of non-captured is when working up loads or using more than one type of factory load and wanting to tune the firearm to the load being used. I generally use three different loads. A 147 grain subsonic at 980fps, my usual load is a Hornady steel match 125 grain running at 1100fps that cost $280 per 500 and ex-military FMJ plus P loads which cost $350 per 1000 rounds. An uncaptured spring set up allows me to change them out using a $12 spring, whereas with a captured system you have to replace the entire guide rod and spring.


KKM vs. Stormlake vs. Lonewolf. There are three links below comparing the three brands. From what I can tell there isn’t that much difference. If I were to choose a standard wall thickness match grade barrel, to fit in a standard slide assembly 9mm to 9mm, without opting to use a conversion/bull barrel 40smith to 9mm luger. I would probably choose a KKM due to the type manufacture, using button rifling.

Button rifling is a process, in which a Titanium Nitride coated Carbide button is pulled under pressure to displace metal to produce a rifled barrel. This process is very expensive but produces a better finished size, surface finish, and surface hardness as well as maintains a more uniform rate of twist than any other rifling process. Each button can be used to produce thousands a barrels before wearing undersized. This allows us to maintain the highest level of quality control.

That’s if I wanted to wait 6 months for the import process to occur in this country and could be bothered filling out B709 forms. If choosing a bull barrel style conversion it would be between a Stormlake and a Lonewolf as KKM don’t make a conversion barrel. The same import process would be required for the Stormlake. Lonewolf have an importer listed below. Hence the lonewolf is my choice.

Note: I have been told that KKM barrels are very tight and some require minor fitting.

Trigger Springs;

The NY trigger are a coil spring within a frame as opposed to factory coil spring, the modules alter the internal geometry and relationship of the trigger linkage. You now have a spring pushing straight up on the back of the cruciform, instead of applying pressure at an angle. The result is a smooth trigger pull and a clean break, with a lightning-fast reset.


Dawson are just reselling the Glock Triggers kit. It removes pre-travel and gives a nice trigger: reduced travel and light pull, not for use on anything but a competition gun. I would offer one word of caution: you need to be very careful about setting the over travel stop and make sure that it does not creep out of adjustment, by using a little blue Loctite.

The Ghost Rocket is not a trigger kit, it is just a connector with a fixed over travel stop that needs to be fitted to an individual gun by filing. It works well, but it is not a complete trigger kit.

NOTE; If you have a Glock that has a couple thousand rounds through it your trigger is already lapped in. If you replace the trigger bar or connector in this gun, it will feel terrible. Any part that is replaced into a lapped system needs to be lapped in itself before a reliable evaluation can be made.


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